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Shifting/Engine Braking/Grinding??

$4 a gal for gas means suddenly 750cc and beyond aren't as popular as they used to be. Mean while you can't get your hands on a leeftover 250-600cc
 
you'll absolutely love this bike when you can go over 6k.

on a side note, you should make it a habit to stop in 1st. i sometimes stop in neutral... but it's not a good habit. reason being... let's say you've just stopped... you look in your mirror and someone is coming up on you a little too fast. they either don't see you, or they've misjudged, or their brakes went out. if you're in first you just get out of their way. if you're in neutral you have to first shift to first and then get out of their way. and always give yourself a way out. don't stop just behind a car. give a little length and look to see where you could go if such a thing were to happen.

continued success with the bike.

Only time I go into neutral on the road is iff traffic is at a standstill and cars in front and behind are stopped and doesn't look like going anywhere soon. It's not legal here to split lanes so I don't (though I've seen some folks do it), those in Cali must never get stuck in traffic lke us common folk LOL.
cbzdel, you'll do fine. When I got this I was afraid coming from cruisers I wouldn't let the engine rev high enough starting from 1st leaving the dealership but having 30 some odd years experience on bikes the throttle hand just kinda fell naturally to the right area and I didn't embarasse myself LOL. Course like everyone who's ever ridden I've had those moments of missed shifts or one bike I had you COULD not take off in 2nd (some kind of electronic cut-off) and I thought was in 1st and let the clutch out and bike died. Thought something was broken, started up and did it again until I checked to make sure and realized in wrong gear, that felt like a real dips#it moment. Take care, enjoy the bike and keep learning, and please don't try to do more than your experience allows even if others try to goad you into it. Ride safe, rubber side down and all that.
 
my fz6r is still in the break in period. around town I am usualy in 3rd gear at 35mph. My dealership told me to drive it any way I wanted, but no to go over 6k rpms to much when it's still under 600 miles.
 
There's lot of good advice in this thread...so i wont add to it...but i reckon you should just.......ride it like you stole it!

:rockon:
 
There's lot of good advice in this thread...so i wont add to it...but i reckon you should just.......ride it like you stole it!

:rockon:

I've done the Motoman break ins with all my bikes. Can't really vouch for it, but his theory makes sense.

Here is the link, ask around and decide for yourself:

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

When I say "can't really vouch for it", I mean I'm not a mechanic, I haven't done any Dyno tests, but bikes run great.
 
I was a little easy on it but pretty much did what that guy suggests, rode fairly hard with alot of acceleration/deceleration and at 1st service they said everything was hunky dory. I've always done this and not babied a bike and have never had any problems.
 
Actually, your understanding of the MSF course is a bit flawed. One of the first things they tell you is that the more you've been riding, the harder the course will be. You'll spend more time trying to break bad habits, than learning the new ones. The beginner's MSF course teaches you riding from the very beginning...I had 2 fourteen year olds and several women who'd never ridden in mine. I also had a couple of 20+ year riders and they really did have a harder time with some of the stuff than the newbies.

As for break in, I talked to my dealer's maintenance manager extensively about it. The real key is to keep varying the engine throttle...don't stay in the same RPM range for extended periods of time, and don't go above 5k for extended periods of time pre 600 miles (7k RPM from 600-4k miles). However, the engine should be taken close to redline from time to time for the rings to seat and adjust properly. Also, remember that the base this engine is built on has a redline of 16k...so hitting 9k from time to time during break in isn't going to hurt your engine.
 
I bought mine used, so no break in for me. However, now that i've been riding a bit, I open it up more. Around town, i usually try to keep it between 4 and 6000 RPM, im usually hovering around 5K, but if i've got plenty of space coming from a stop or merging onto a main road, i'll let 'er rip...firs time i passed 7 grand and went north of 10K were beautiful..first time i red-lined it was orgasmic! I've been using engine braking more and more lately, i won't get on the brakes until i'm coming to my final stop...the bike does a pretty good job of slowing down as i'm shifting down through the gears, but i'm always in 1st or second coming to the stop...takes too much time to try and go from 6-1 and like others have said, you don't want to get caught in 6th at a stop when you need to move in a hurry!
 
my riding stile... in the city i find it useless hitting high revves from light to light.. so i ride from 2500-3500 rpms in the city.. doesn`t lug.. goes fine and if you twist the throttle it pulls just fine... outsitde city... limit is 90kph i usualy do 90 kph or 5000 rpms... ofcourse.. can`t stand it for such a long time... so i give it a lil twist 7-9 k rpm... but not constantly... long rides.. about 7k-8k rpm crusing.. main thing is... this bike.. isn`t ment to be pushed to the limits all the time... but also not being spared.. use what you can.. when you can.. within your limits and your bikes limits...you must know the bike.. and know what you want from a bike to really enjoy it... just because its based of an old fazer which is based on an old r6 doesn`t mean you should treat it like an r6
 
You are right in some things

Yes, do not ride the bike "continuosly" over 6000 rpm until you cover 1000 km(600mi), this is what says in the book and the local dealers. That doesn't means you never go above 6000 limit. You can go for a short time for e.g to shift a gear, but cannot rider on 7000 rpm all the way to home. Got my point?



I guess I should of added more.. I am new to riding with a clutch, I have had some 50-250 scooters which are you know automatics.. so getting used to the clutchwork and power is kinda complicated.. I am taking the MSF class but not for another few weeks, I am getting used to the bike early.. (JUne 9th to June 12th)

And the reason I mentioned shifting at about 3000 RPM is because that is aprox what the owners manual says according to the shift points...

Also someone mentioned take it to 9k every once in awhile, my dealer told me not to take it over 6000rpm for the first 600 miles and it will mess up the rings... There is so much confiltcing info it makes it hard when you are starting out haha!

Someone asked how I went from 6th to park, the owners manual says 6th is like 35ish plus mph.. so thats how I do it.. driving down the steet at 35ish and then turning into my driveway lol...

Sorry for the newbie post, cars have always been my thing, I have just recently got into real bikes haha :)

But thanks for all the pointers everyone, now I think I have a better understanding of the bike for sure!! I really wanted to take the MSF class before I got the bike but I seen it and fell in love with it!

Thanks again guys!
 
Yes, do not ride the bike "continuosly" over 6000 rpm until you cover 1000 km(600mi), this is what says in the book and the local dealers. That doesn't means you never go above 6000 limit. You can go for a short time for e.g to shift a gear, but cannot rider on 7000 rpm all the way to home. Got my point?

Sure brought this thread back from the dead.
 
Imagine and if you read the manual they tell you to shift at low speeds.
1st-2nd=20KM
2nd-3rd=30KM
3rd-4th=40KM
4th-5th=50Km
5th-6th=60KM

at that speed a snail would be faster
These bikes need high RPM for better shifting
 
First do you even have your license? The way you ride sounds like you have never tKe the msf course. Second I never shift until about 5-6 rpm...third when braking I pull clutch brake Nd downshift all the same time as thy teach your in the msg course ....my advise is to take the course it really does help and if u have taken it....review things sometimes it helps....not trying to be a jerk but even I review it once and awhile u gotta keep your skills sharp and learn proper techniques
 
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