What up with that?! Your just now telling us about these engine mods??!! Did you get it dyno'ed? How much? must tell us more....
What type of oil to buy?
- Thread starter MikeN02
- Start date
i'm guessing that the castrol had been sitting on the shelf for a long time and you were the right sucker to listen to them.
8k is WAY to long to wait for synthetic.. If you want to play it safe, wait till 1k, but not 8.Nice pick up.....now, I am going to make you wait until I unveil my total creation in the next few days in my other thread.
Dyno'ed stock, dyno'ed with some engine mods, then dyno'ed with the nitrous.
I will post the results right after all the pics of the bike together.
Eh, oil is oil for me. I'm not racing or anything just using it for street riding. My friend whose been riding longer than me uses castrol too and they made fun of him telling him to use real oil or something.i'm guessing that the castrol had been sitting on the shelf for a long time and you were the right sucker to listen to them.
Suspense.....Tease......(Looks awesome already, I like the custom one of a kind stuff.)
That's the same one I've been using since my 4k oil change and I though it worked smoother than the Yamalube. Do people consider it to be junk oil?
I'm thinking of trying out the Rotella T heavy duty stuff Jonkerr and others mentioned for my next oil change. I'm all about the cheap, but still want a decent quality, since I do oil changes frequently enough.
!!?
i am considering Amsoil or Motul 300 for my next oil change, my last oil change was couple of weeks back at about 4k miles, i used Yamalube 10w 40 and replaced stock oil filter with K&N oil filter, now i have almost 5K miles on the bike should i change the oil filter again just coz doing an oil change with a 100% synthetic oil ??
fyi: if anyone having hard time finding K&N oil filters (model: 204), i bought it direct from K&N webstore for around 14 bucks with free shipping.
i am considering Amsoil or Motul 300 for my next oil change, my last oil change was couple of weeks back at about 4k miles, i used Yamalube 10w 40 and replaced stock oil filter with K&N oil filter, now i have almost 5K miles on the bike should i change the oil filter again just coz doing an oil change with a 100% synthetic oil ??
fyi: if anyone having hard time finding K&N oil filters (model: 204), i bought it direct from K&N webstore for around 14 bucks with free shipping.
I think that the upshifts with Rotella T are so smooth that sometimes I feel like I missed the shift. Like there isnt any resistance or clunk at all. It was kind of disconcerting in the beginning. For the money you cant beat Rotella T 15W40 HDEO. I'm going to try the full synthetic Rotella 5W40 next and if I get enough KMs in this summer I'll try Amsoil. Then pick which one I like best and babble to the world on this forum
Shell Rotella T - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
- Shell Rotella T Triple Protection
- Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic
I used the T6 Full Synthetic and it felt great. I just read that article I mentioned and didn't want to take the chance. I just change the oil on Thursday and put Repsol 10w 40 in it. I've put about 200 miles on that oil change the last 2 days and in all honesty, I don't really feel any difference in the shifting. It still feels perfectly fine. One thing I did notice though was the clutch seems to be disengaging better. I noticed just before I changed that if I rev'd the motor when stopped at a light (there's a light down my street that never catches bikes unless you sit on the loop and rev the hell out of the motor) with the clutch in and in gear, it felt like the bike wanted to pull forward a bit. Not much but just barely. It never did that before. I figured my clutch must just need to be adjusted and I'd do that later as it wasn't really effecting anything else. But I did the same thing this morning at that light and didn't feel it at all. Don't quite know what to make of it actually.I think that the upshifts with Rotella T are so smooth that sometimes I feel like I missed the shift. Like there isnt any resistance or clunk at all. It was kind of disconcerting in the beginning. For the money you cant beat Rotella T 15W40 HDEO. I'm going to try the full synthetic Rotella 5W40 next and if I get enough KMs in this summer I'll try Amsoil. Then pick which one I like best and babble to the world on this forum
Shell Rotella T - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
- Shell Rotella T Triple Protection
- Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic
going by the book !! thats what nerds doChanging the oil earlier than the owner's manual? wow, I'm at 3700 and I'm tempted to change my oil already but am resisting until I hit 4,000. Just following it by the book.
j/k... smoother riding feel only lasted for couple of days after using yamalube for an oil change at 4k miles, may be thats because i am constantly spending 30 to 50 mins in crawling traffic, bike temps is around 212F so i thought may be trying a different oil would help.. there is allot of good info on this thread..Check to see if your clutch cable is binding or starting to seize up. I noticed that if I moved the steering around the cable would hangup on some of the other wires and cables by the neck. Also I've already had to lube up the cable, clutch lever and bottom part at the gearbox as it was drying out and making a squeak noise. I've also adjusted the cable tighter since new as I was getting some play after a couple 1000km. However when I moved my bars forward I was thinking that I should re-adjust and thats when I noticed the cable binding up.
Not sure if the oil has that much viscosity to transmit power from a fully disengaged clutch?? Look at adjusting first...
I would think you're dead on except I'd just done all that about a month or so ago. Plus, like I said, it's stopped since I did the oil change. Rode another 100 miles today and tried it a few times just to see and it's completely fine.
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whatever
I was planing on using the rottela oil, but the manual says not to use diesel oil.... that seems like might be a problem
pretty sure the rottela is a diesel oil
pretty sure the rottela is a diesel oil
I'd let the dealer perform your first maintenance and run yamalube. Run that still or go with a blend until around 8k miles and run same blend or full synthetic.
You don't want a heavy synthetic though. It won't lube as well at start up as a lighter weight ex: 5w40 compared to 10w40. Another good reason to always warm your bike up first which ever you use so you know the case is properly lubed and also why so many people prefer and recommend blends.
On another note... things have evolved hugely since the battle of reg oil and syn began. Technology is very apparent here and you really can't go wrong with any recommended oil for daily and sport riding. Both kinds are much BETTER than before and with proper and on time maintenance there should be no issues. It's racing and constant high reving machines that need special attention but if your commuting and twisties on the weekend then go with what ever.
My friend that tours on his Busa runs full syn because he'll put 3500-6000 miles on one tour before changing oil. When he's not on the road he uses a blend and changes at 2.5k miles. ATM he said he has 83,000 miles so you tell me.. It's all preference.
The reason you want to stay away from diesel based oil is because a motorcycle's, like ours, crankcase and transmission is one. You CAN NOT get this diesel based oil in your clutch assembly it will destroy it!! not really.. actually the older diesel oil worked great.. it's the newer stuff that has been causing issues with rating C-J4 on them resulting in SLIPPAGE, if you are to use I was told to recommend C-I4 based oil . It wont destroy clutches but will wear them out a lot faster if using other than CI4.
Keep reading there is great info on oil.
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W
whatever
yes i think im going to pass on the rottela.... and just buy some yamalube 5 bucks a qt ...not that bad if you do the labor yourself.... see now that they have some real high quality syn if i decide to take that step later on.
support the company that built the bike why not.... sure another company makes the stuff anyway.
no oil window ... so checking is a little wacked.... try to make a little block of wood or something for the kickstand.
support the company that built the bike why not.... sure another company makes the stuff anyway.
no oil window ... so checking is a little wacked.... try to make a little block of wood or something for the kickstand.
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ROTELLA T and ROTELLA T Synthetic are universal oils, providing lubrication and protection for four-stroke diesel and many four-stroke gasoline engines (but not aviation piston engines). We do not performance test these products in motorcycle engines, so any comment must be based on oil performance specifications and oil chemistry.
Most motorcycle engine manufacturers recommend oil by API Service Category. Some, like Harley (when their brand of oil is not available), recommend API CG-or CH-4 oils, which are diesel performance categories. Others recommend API SL, SJ, or earlier Service Category oil for gasoline engines. Where the engine oil sump also serves the wet clutch and transmission, oils without friction modifiers are usually recommended.
Both ROTELLA T products exceed all the API Service Category performance requirements mentioned above. They are formulated principally as heavy-duty diesel oils. Compared to most passenger car gasoline engine oils, they have superior oxidation resistance, superior extreme pressure wear protection, superior high temperature-high shear viscosity, and superior detergency and dispersancy - and they contain NO friction modifier additives. If I were to choose oil for a motorcycle engine, these are qualities I would want. Clearly, ROTELLA T Multigrade and ROTELLA T Synthetic would be better choices for motorcycle engines than passenger car only oils. Without knowing the composition of, and performance specifications met by, "motorcycle oils", it is not possible to compare the ROTELLA T products performance to them.
ROTELLA T SAE 15W-40 is a universal oil, meeting needs of many 4-stroke gasoline as well as most diesel engines. It has performance credentials (API Service Categories SL and CI-4) for lubricating both kinds of engines.
It's best to consult your owner's manual for recommended oil quality. If your engine manufacturer recommends oil meeting any of these API Service Categories; CF-4, CG-4, CH-4, CI-4, and/or SH, SJ, and SL, or any earlier but obsolete category, then ROTELLA T may be a good choice.
ROTELLA T Multigrade does not contain friction modifiers, and it does not comply with all requirements of ILSAC GF-1, GF-2 and GF-3 (the ILSAC oil specifications are often recommended by many gasoline passenger car engine manufacturers). That can be good for motorcycle use. Friction modifiers can upset wet clutch operation. And the ILSAC requirements limit phosphorus content. Diesel engines and other engines with highly loaded valve trains, as well as transmissions, need extra (compared to passenger car engines) extreme pressure wear protection, which is provided by an additive that contains phosphorus.
One negative might be where the engine manufacturer recommends oil meeting JASO requirements, which limits ash content to 1.2%. Ash content of ROTELLA T Multigrade exceeds this limit.
Just Fyi
Most motorcycle engine manufacturers recommend oil by API Service Category. Some, like Harley (when their brand of oil is not available), recommend API CG-or CH-4 oils, which are diesel performance categories. Others recommend API SL, SJ, or earlier Service Category oil for gasoline engines. Where the engine oil sump also serves the wet clutch and transmission, oils without friction modifiers are usually recommended.
Both ROTELLA T products exceed all the API Service Category performance requirements mentioned above. They are formulated principally as heavy-duty diesel oils. Compared to most passenger car gasoline engine oils, they have superior oxidation resistance, superior extreme pressure wear protection, superior high temperature-high shear viscosity, and superior detergency and dispersancy - and they contain NO friction modifier additives. If I were to choose oil for a motorcycle engine, these are qualities I would want. Clearly, ROTELLA T Multigrade and ROTELLA T Synthetic would be better choices for motorcycle engines than passenger car only oils. Without knowing the composition of, and performance specifications met by, "motorcycle oils", it is not possible to compare the ROTELLA T products performance to them.
ROTELLA T SAE 15W-40 is a universal oil, meeting needs of many 4-stroke gasoline as well as most diesel engines. It has performance credentials (API Service Categories SL and CI-4) for lubricating both kinds of engines.
It's best to consult your owner's manual for recommended oil quality. If your engine manufacturer recommends oil meeting any of these API Service Categories; CF-4, CG-4, CH-4, CI-4, and/or SH, SJ, and SL, or any earlier but obsolete category, then ROTELLA T may be a good choice.
ROTELLA T Multigrade does not contain friction modifiers, and it does not comply with all requirements of ILSAC GF-1, GF-2 and GF-3 (the ILSAC oil specifications are often recommended by many gasoline passenger car engine manufacturers). That can be good for motorcycle use. Friction modifiers can upset wet clutch operation. And the ILSAC requirements limit phosphorus content. Diesel engines and other engines with highly loaded valve trains, as well as transmissions, need extra (compared to passenger car engines) extreme pressure wear protection, which is provided by an additive that contains phosphorus.
One negative might be where the engine manufacturer recommends oil meeting JASO requirements, which limits ash content to 1.2%. Ash content of ROTELLA T Multigrade exceeds this limit.
Just Fyi
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LOL it depends on what TYPE of brand you use. The T type is universal so it's okay. There are finer additions to oil other than what it says on the label you have to watch out for.. some additives can cause wear on different metals.. so keep that in mind..
If it says "motorcycle oil" you probably WONT go wrong using it..
Y
yellowfz
Just went through this , settled for the Valvoline oil I found at AutoZone , formulated for motorcycles , $3.99 per quart .
Not a V fan but beats Stealership prices and is easy to find .
Linky : Valvoline.com > Products > Motor Oil > Motorcycle ATV Oil > Valvoline® 4-Stroke Motorcycle Oil
Not a V fan but beats Stealership prices and is easy to find .
Linky : Valvoline.com > Products > Motor Oil > Motorcycle ATV Oil > Valvoline® 4-Stroke Motorcycle Oil