What type of oil to buy?

[MikeN02]

First time oil change here, didn't even do it in a car let a lone a bike. Getting near my 4,000 mark and I need to get some oil!

Going to go to my local Cycle Gear and pick up some just need some good info, mainly what to stay away from.

Since I'm going to Cycle Gear I know it won't be car oil that will blow my engine, I think I might go with Repsol since they're a known brand, full synthetic and it says it's 10-50W? What's this mean? Owners manual said to use yamaha lube 10-40W or 20-50W but I imagine it would be more expensive, plus I want a smoother shift.

 

[flyingminno]

Either way with an oil change, you will get a smoother shift. As far as synthetics go, you should try to stay away from them until after at least 8k. The yamalube 10w-40 will work just fine for a warmer climate. Just make sure you put the right amount and torque the drain plug to the right amount is all the other advice you really need.

Are you planning on changing the filter or waiting until the next change?

 

[TOMIK]

Oil

Any cycle oil would work I would recemend 10-40, and as mentiond above maine thing is to not overtight the oil draine plug, which my son did on his bike and cause the oil pan crack , it was a very expensive oil change. good luck . Tom

 

[Roaddawg]

I get the Castrol semi-synthetic from Cyclegear and have been pleased with it. Shifts smooth. It's usually only $5 or 6 per quart. 10W40 or 20W50 is fine, either one.

 

[MikeN02]

Either way with an oil change, you will get a smoother shift. As far as synthetics go, you should try to stay away from them until after at least 8k. The yamalube 10w-40 will work just fine for a warmer climate. Just make sure you put the right amount and torque the drain plug to the right amount is all the other advice you really need.

Are you planning on changing the filter or waiting until the next change?

I've heard going synthetic is better for the bike is why. I know I'll need about 3 quarts.

I'm planning on changing it to a K and N filter.

I'm scared to death of torquing now because the first time I did for my frame sliders I stripped the shavings of the engine bolt because of over tightening.

 

[JonKerr]

Use a torque wrench. If you don't have one, buy one. It's an absolute must.

I just picked up a gallon of Repsol and a K&N. Gotta do an oil change tomorrow as well as a basic once over with the Lithium lube and torque wrench.

 

[Superfly]

Amsoil 10-40 synthetic is awesome for the big money spenders out there. Motul 300V is as well.

I'm running Rotella T 15w-40 HeavyDutyEngineOil right now. Might try the 5-40 Rotella synthetic next.

 

[flyingminno]

I've heard going synthetic is better for the bike is why. I know I'll need about 3 quarts.

I'm planning on changing it to a K and N filter.

I'm scared to death of torquing now because the first time I did for my frame sliders I stripped the shavings of the engine bolt because of over tightening.

The reason I recommend to stay away from synthetic is because after having a conversation with several motorcycle mechanic-friends, they described the adverse effects that using a synthetic oil on an engine that is not fully worn in, particularly high-revving motorcycle engines, can cause. By fully worn in they meant above 8,000 miles.

Don't sweat the torque, just make sure you apply the proper amount. It is actually not that much considering; only around 31 ft/lbs. Best of luck!

Oh and make sure you warm up the bike before the change, and careful not to burn any skin!

 

[JonKerr]

Amsoil 10-40 synthetic is awesome for the big money spenders out there. Motul 300V is as well.

I'm running Rotella T 15w-40 HeavyDutyEngineOil right now. Might try the 5-40 Rotella synthetic next.

I read an article that they just recently changed the formula of the Rotella and it now has friction modifiers (BIG no no in a wet clutch) in it and that it's a bad idea to use it any more. I've used it my last two oil changes but I think I had oil from before they made the change. I tried to find the article again but I'm coming up empty. I wish I had bookmarked it. That's why I'm switching to Repsol. I liked only paying $18 a gallon but if there's a chance that what I read is true, I'd rather spend the money on oil I know will be fine than possibly a new clutch.

 

[h00k247]

I have that about Rotella too. I used Rotella religiously on my C50 and it made a huge difference in shifting.

If you are looking for smoother shifting, look at the shifter bushing (if the FZ6R has one). I have not had a chance to go over the bike that well yet.

With my C50, there was a guy that made a replacement bushing out of a self-oiling metal (I think it was oilyte) and it made a night and day difference on that bike.

 

[vitrox]

i put synthetic into my r1 at 600 miles, no ill effects except more power.. 8k is way too long for an engine to break in. Ride it like you stole it and its ready to rock in 50 miles. If your rings aren't fully seated by 50-100 miles, then you have a messed up set of rings. I'm going to put yamalube into the fz6r for its first oil change. Its wayyyy cheaper than the amsoil the r1 gets.

 

[WarEagle07]

I put synthetic into mine at 600 and it runs like a top. I think the idea of putting synthetic in your bike after say 6000 miles is a wise tale. If Yamaha didn't want us to use it in our bikes after 600 miles it would be in bold print in our manual.

 

[MikeN02]

Use a torque wrench. If you don't have one, buy one. It's an absolute must.

I just picked up a gallon of Repsol and a K&N. Gotta do an oil change tomorrow as well as a basic once over with the Lithium lube and torque wrench.

Just got a torque wrench on sale for $27, oil pan and funnel. Now I need to go buy my K and N oil filter and oil.

 

[Superfly]

I read an article that they just recently changed the formula of the Rotella and it now has friction modifiers (BIG no no in a wet clutch) in it and that it's a bad idea to use it any more. I've used it my last two oil changes but I think I had oil from before they made the change. I tried to find the article again but I'm coming up empty. I wish I had bookmarked it. That's why I'm switching to Repsol. I liked only paying $18 a gallon but if there's a chance that what I read is true, I'd rather spend the money on oil I know will be fine than possibly a new clutch.

That was a rumor spread because the Rotella bottles didnt have the JASO-MA rating on them. They didnt run the testing required because of the Ph levels I believe and everyone thought it was because of friction modifiers not mixing with wet clutches. I can tell you 100% that the new white 4L bottles of Rotella T is JASO-MA certified cause I'm staring right at it. Apparently they went ahead with the JASO testing once they reduced their additives that hurt emmisions systems and due to consumer demand or something like that. I read that Rotella never has been energy-conserving or friction modified. If I find the info from bobistheoilguy I'll post it. Going riding

 

[FZ6Rgurl]

This last oil change, I put Royal Purple oil in it. The version that's especially made for motorcycles and it's actually been great. But I just found out I get my oil changes for free from my dealership so they might put Yamalube in it(I hope so anyway, and not cheap stuff). My first oil change I put Yamahalube 25W-50 in it and that stuff was actually really expensive. $15 a quart. OUCH!

 

[JnT4Life]

My first oil change I put Yamahalube 25W-50 in it and that stuff was actually really expensive. $15 a quart. OUCH!

Holy Cow! Thats expensive even for the semi-synthetic!

I'll stick with Mobile 1 Synthetic at $10 a quart.

 

[husker525]

There are a lot of good oils out there, some better than others, in specific areas. Any oil designed for a wet clutch application is an appropriate oil. (Meaning automotive oils will not work).

Please allow me to share a little personal experience with you. I race competitive motocross with my race team. I used Yamalube, Mobil 1, Motul, Bel Ray, and Royal Purple in my race quads. We still had to tear down our motors for a rebuild after about 3-4 hard races. I received an Amsoil sponsorship, and was asked why I didn't use it prior. I told them 'it is too expensive to run with all the quads'.

After changing to Amsoil, we tear our motors down after 18-20 races, and replace less than 1/2 of the parts we use to. My race mechanic was so impressed at the lack of wear, and corrosion, that he switched to Amsoil for all the drag quads and bikes that he builds for other people.

We change our oil after every 3 rides or races, whereas we used to have change after each ride or race. The money spent up front, saves 3 times in the long run, if not more.

I have a lengthy SAE test of all the motorcycle oils from research that I have done, with comparisons in many areas. If anyone is interested in this, feel free to email me at [email protected].

As for the break-in process, it is important to NOT use synthetic oil during break in, as you want the friction to seat the rings, etc.

 

[MikeN02]

So my guy who works at cycle gear sold me Castrol Actevo X-TRA 4T. SAE 10W - 40.

Part Synthetic

Like many others though I asked about full synthetic and he said I shouldn't do it until 8k and about how it isn't until the rings are seated etc.

 

[JnT4Life]

As for the break-in process, it is important to NOT use synthetic oil during break in, as you want the friction to seat the rings, etc.

So how many miles is considered 'break in'?

Also, do you 'break in' the quads with something other than Amsoil? Because its a new engine every time you rebuild it.

 

[husker525]

So how many miles is considered 'break in'?

Also, do you 'break in' the quads with something other than Amsoil? Because its a new engine every time you rebuild it.

I use Yamalube to break in my quad engines. We break them in a little different than most people. We ride them about 60% throttle, staying off the rev limiter for about 30 minutes on a motocross track. The on/off/on/off the throttle, while riding up and down the jumps helps seat the rings. We then check all the bolts, look for any leaks, and they are ready to race.

We will also break in the quad motors on a loaded dyno, just not loading them down all the way, if the weather does not permit outside riding.

Once the break in process is complete, out goes the Yamalube, and in goes the Amsoil. (This process works well for us, each person has their own thoughts on proper break in though.)

For obvious reasons, I do not want to contradict the Yamaha service manual, but in my personal opinion, I broke mine in the following way:

I rode in city traffic, constantly varying the rpm's, but staying way below the rev limiter, but not lugging the motor either, for the first 500 miles. I changed the oil, it was disgusting. I dumped another 3 quarts of Yamalube and a new filter in it, and started a little longer rides, mixing highway speeds and city driving for the next 500 miles, and changed the oil and filter again. The oil was dirty, but not terrible like the first time. I dumped Amsoil in it after that, and have about 1500 miles total on it now.

Keep in mind, that I rode the bike from the dealership to my house (6 miles), swapped out the pistons for some prototype aftermarket piston and rings, changed out the cams, had the heads ported and polished, all when it had less than 10 miles on it. Then I broke it in....