New Bike Break In

[Scott_Thomas]

"Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want
anyone to get hit from behind !!"

That is in essence the "Break it in like you stole it" Method.

Seat those rings!

Spunky,
By deceleration do you mean high speed in low gear and simply letting off the throttle? I am new to motorcycles and am picking up my FZ6R in a week and a half. I certainly don't want to spend the summer riding at low speeds on back roads since I work 20 miles from home. I have a lot of experience with manual transmissions and very little riding experience so I am not sure what you mean by decelerate quickly. I am assuming if you get up to 65 in 2nd gear that backing off the throttle will decelerate you pretty fast. I've done that in my Z28 many times when accelerating for short bursts. I agree that the om method is way cautious. I would think with frequent oil changes and maintenance that the drive it like you stole it method would work better. It just makes more sense then the factory break in. Any tips or pointers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[Nastybutler]

Sethomas, I'm pretty certain that Spunky meant use engine braking to decelerate. Don't just decelerate by using your brakes. Let the engine load up by downshifting and letting the clutch out to let the RPMs rise. Once it's in the next gear down, let off the throttle. Rinse and repeat.

 

[Scott_Thomas]

Sethomas, I'm pretty certain that Spunky meant use engine braking to decelerate. Don't just decelerate by using your brakes. Let the engine load up by downshifting and letting the clutch out to let the RPMs rise. Once it's in the next gear down, let off the throttle. Rinse and repeat.

Thanks Nasty! That's what I thought he meant, just needed clarification. Which break in method did you use on your 6R? I have no experience on an inline four although from everything I've seen the 6R is pretty docile compared to other inline fours unless you really up the revs. So my question is, when downshifting the 6R at a decent speed is there a bad lurch or is it fairly smooth. I know from a car standpoint that my Z28 would break the tires loose if downshifting to hard or fast. I plan on taking baby steps the first few weeks to get the feel of her, but after that I wanna see what she can do.
Thanks,
Scott

 

[Nastybutler]

Yeah, just play around with it and you'll soon get a feel for what it does. The best way to avoid having the rear wheel lock up is to "blip" the throttle when letting the clutch back out. Make sure not to experiment with that while cornering.

 

[Scott_Thomas]

Yeah, just play around with it and you'll soon get a feel for what it does. The best way to avoid having the rear wheel lock up is to "blip" the throttle when letting the clutch back out. Make sure not to experiment with that while cornering.

LMAO! Yeah, I may be new but not born yesterday. I'll be sure to do that on a straightaway at medium speeds, nothing mind shattering. Thanks again Nasty.

 

[FSXlover]

I'm about to hit the 600 miles mark and change the oil and such. I had a question about the breaking in after 600 miles.

I was told to not keep the throttle in the same position(Keeping the same Revs) for long periods of time. After 600 miles do I still need to fluctuate the throttle or is it okay to go on long cruises?

 

[Nastybutler]

I'm about to hit the 600 miles mark and change the oil and such. I had a question about the breaking in after 600 miles.

I was told to not keep the throttle in the same position(Keeping the same Revs) for long periods of time. After 600 miles do I still need to fluctuate the throttle or is it okay to go on long cruises?

I wouldn't keep it at a steady speed in the same gear for too long until after you get to 1000 miles. But when I got mine I drove 150 miles home that day and while I tried to vary the RPM's there were stretches where I caught myself after I'd been keeping a steady speed for a few miles. Didn't seem to hurt it, but I'd avoid it if possible.

I also was running it above the manufacturer suggested RPM's for most of that initial trip. I put 7000 miles on last summer, and the engine runs like a champ, so it's up to you. I ran mine harder than you're supposed to, and so far have had no negative side effects. Your experience might vary. These are very well built engines.

 

[FSXlover]

Thanks for the advice.

I'm sure I'll have 1000 miles in no time anyways. I have been very sure to move the revs around when I ride. I've also tried hard to follow what the book said and the forums members as well.

Thanks again.

 

[BKP]

This is what I think of Yamaha's break-in recommendations (my bike, as you can see is under 600 miles):

I broke in my last bike very hard (as I'm doing with the Fizzer) with the following caveats:

• Never red-lined it
• Never lugged it
• Varied the RPM
• Never went completely WOT in any gear

As a result (IMHO) the rings sealed better, there was no glazing in the cylinders, I had no unknown mechanical issues, and I seemed to get a big power boost in the mid and high range power bands.

By the way... there's no problem running at a particular speed on the highway for a bit (so your bike doesn't behave like an over-sized acceleration/deceleration yo-yo). When they say don't keep it at the same RPMs, they're talking for long periods of time, as in touring... You're not going to hurt it running it at the same RPM for five or ten minutes at a time...

And, like Nasty mentioned above, use engine breaking where you can. It further loads the engine, and helps with ring sealing (which is primarily what break-in is all about).

 

[Perdurable]

perfect post!!!!^^^^

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using Tapatalk 2

 

[vkamnev]

just like manual says. under 5k for the first 1000 km, oil change, and under 6000 next 700 km. I went higher revs couple times on highway just to keep up with traffic, but no more than 100 km total and 6000 rpm. also raced it few times from lights to redline.

this is my first new bike and I'm trying to make things right

 

[mikebaileyvienna]

some things I have learned

If you are here, that might mean that you have a new bike. You might even be new to riding (like me) or just new to the FZ6R. Here are some things I have learned in my first months, maybe some can help you:
a) the 600 mi thing is almost exclusively about the oil change, the rest is just tweaking, and it takes very little know-how to change oil (there are youtubes if you are hesitant). The visit to the shop can wait a few hundred if they are backed up or inconvenient (typical in midsummer)
b) there are youtubes answering almost every question you have
c) balance front-to-back is controlled by your seating position, your weight, the tire pressures, and the shock setting -- experiment with the shock and tire pressures to get it right, you'll know when the bike carves corners cleanly. I went too hard (5) on the shock and almost bounced off at speed
d) chain maintenance is REQUIRED every 600, but you don't need to buy a $160 lift to do it easily. Check out the Harbor Freight "wheel cleaner" rollers, which cost $25 and are very easy to use
e) motorcycle boots are like dorky versions of hiking boots and cost more
f) if you are riding good distances, standard motor oil is fine and more affordable. Changing it frequently seems to be the norm. I'm going at a rate of about one change every 1500.
g) rev your bike to 5-7K, its a different animal when revved
h) tunes in the helmet are WAY fun
i) there are deep discounts on the web for protective clothes, I like Motorcycle Jackets & Biker Helmets Clothing Store - Leather Boots, Chaps & Motorcycle Gear. They have a troubling rep for selling trash so you have to be picky, but the prices are great
j) I know you didn't buy a supersport, maybe because of the scarey rider position, but once you have some speed you need to *tuck* to get the most out of the handleing capability of the Fizzr. Guys wanting huge windshields or crying about the wind blast are probably riding at 55+ sitting straight up, and guys complaining about the back wheel washing out on curves are sitting up like cruiser riders in the twisties
k) your speedometer gives you a reading that is high (faster than actual, radar tested), mine is 10% high. The odometer on my bike is accurate (tested with my GPS) to within 1%. This means that the computer doing the calculation is biased on purpose, and I'm betting that this bias is exactly the same for all these bikes (why? think liability!)
j) if your hands get numb or go to sleep, this is because you are not using your legs when you ride to squeeze the bike, especially in turns. Got this advice when I was bitching about my hands and asking for recommendations for grips.

 

[applejax]

If you are here, that might mean that you have a new bike. You might even be new to riding (like me) or just new to the FZ6R. Here are some things I have learned in my first month, maybe some can help you:
a) the 600 mi thing is almost exclusively about the oil change, the rest is just tweaking, and it takes very little know-how to change oil (there are youtubes if you are hesitant)
b) there are youtubes answering almost every question you have
c) balance front-to-back is controlled by your seating position, your weight, the tire pressures, and the shock setting -- experiment with the shock and tire pressures to get it right, you'll know when the bike carves corners cleanly
d) chain maintenance is REQUIRED every 600, but you don't need to buy a $160 lift to do it easily. Check out the Harbor Freight "wheel cleaner" rollers, which cost $25 and are very easy to use
e) motorcycle boots are like dorky versions of hiking boots and cost more
f) if you are riding good distances, standard motor oil is fine and more affordable. Changing it frequently seems to be the norm.
g) rev your bike to 5-7K, its a different animal when revved
h) tunes in the helmet are WAY fun
i) there are deep discounts on the web for protective clothes, I like Motorcycle Jackets & Biker Helmets Clothing Store - Leather Boots, Chaps & Motorcycle Gear

I dont trust anything from leatherup.com. My friend bought a leather jacket from them, low sides at around 10-15mph. The jacket pretty much ripped apart.

 

[Detrich]

^ What brand and type of jacket was it?

 

[mikebaileyvienna]

jacket

Xelement leather/textile. Leather on the shoulders, armor, elbow cinchers. Was $90 at LeatherUp

 

[applejax]

^ What brand and type of jacket was it?

I don't remember off hand. But it was some not very expensive "leather" jacket.

You get what you pay for, is my motto.

Same goes with car/bike mods:

Cheap
Reliable
Fast

Pick 2, you can't have all three.

 

[surfphotochris]

Finally about to hit 600 mile!!

This is what I think of Yamaha's break-in recommendations (my bike, as you can see is under 600 miles):

I broke in my last bike very hard (as I'm doing with the Fizzer) with the following caveats:

• Never red-lined it
• Never lugged it
• Varied the RPM
• Never went completely WOT in any gear

As a result (IMHO) the rings sealed better, there was no glazing in the cylinders, I had no unknown mechanical issues, and I seemed to get a big power boost in the mid and high range power bands.

By the way... there's no problem running at a particular speed on the highway for a bit (so your bike doesn't behave like an over-sized acceleration/deceleration yo-yo). When they say don't keep it at the same RPMs, they're talking for long periods of time, as in touring... You're not going to hurt it running it at the same RPM for five or ten minutes at a time...

And, like Nasty mentioned above, use engine breaking where you can. It further loads the engine, and helps with ring sealing (which is primarily what break-in is all about).

Break-In periods are always a hot topic! Some say: "Ride her hard in the beginning and she will be used to it rough" and others say "Ease her into itand in the end she will get freakier with time". I am no expert but I have broken in over 10 bikes and tried it both ways. here is what I have found:

First few bikes I had (CBR600 F2, F3, & F4, GSX-R750) rode em hard from day one! Redline every ride and rode it like i stole it! No problems at all. I performed oil changes alot more often though. Yamaha R6/R1 broken in softly and every ride I would warm up and follow guidelines to break-in but then let her rip through the gears at redline once during each ride to get her really loose. Also, Always downshift and elt the engine resist most of the weight whenever possible (as stated perfectly above).

Suzuki SV-650 rode it like a bat out of hell.

FZ-6R - Following suit with R6/R1 above. keep it under 5500 RPM and never ride at constant speeds for too long. Even taking off ramps every other exit on freeway to keep the Revs fluctuating. Still though, I have let her loose on almost every ride after warmed up and rode for a while (temp. between 180-205) let her fly through the gears at near redline. I have to say that approaching 600 miles on her and she feels better and better every day! I am going to swap oil and follow through until 1000miles and swap oil for full synthetic. I will post update when I get there but so far so good! can't wait to actually let her spread her wings though! I took one trip up Palomar Mtn. on her and rode her hard.... WOW FZ-6R can hold her own against any of my previous supersport bikes. I am a very experienced, ex track rider, and I have to say that I am overly impressed wit hthe FZ-6R abilities across the board!

 

[BKP]

Puts a grin on your face, doesn't she...
Good luck with her... ride safe...

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

 

[FastFreddy]

I had the restrictor in place, so it wouldn't go past 7K or 25% throttle anyway.

Based on observing when the oil looks dirty, I'd recommend :
300 km
1 000 km
4 000 km
7 000 km
10 000 km
15 000 km
20 000 km
etc

You can tell when its dirty even without looking, it doesn't feel or sound the same. Also make sure to clean the chain really well at least every 2 weeks.

 

[sm00thpapa]

Hi all been awhile since I been here. If you know me, you know I am recently (with in the last 12 months) retired military and finally have time with my FZ6R but not really. I have many injuries and PTSD I'm battling that keep me from riding. Well here it goes. I have an 09 FZ6R which I purchased new in March of 2009. I was then sent to South Korea for a year while it sat in my garage and my wife started it every couple of days to warm it up. She did this for maybe a month before I told her to stop it when I read about engine break ins. Bike at the time had 15 miles on it with 20W50 Yamalube in it from the dealer. I then came home and was sent to the Pentagon for 3 years while my bike stayed in the garage in Florida. I would visit like every 4 to 6 months and maybe put between 10 and 30 miles on the bike at a time. I changed the oil and filter at 300 miles when I did bring it to VA for about a year in which I did not ride it much. It now has only 463 miles. (1) Do you think I have damaged the engine for treating it like this for 4 years? (2) Should I still worry about engine break in at this point or just ride it as I normally would? or (3) Is the engine ruined and I should get rid of the bike? My mind is wandering at all times and I am nervous all the time due to PTSD and this has really been bothering me. I feel like I have destroyed my engine and it will fail pretty soon and will not last long. Have I wasted $7,200? Just would like to hear some thoughts from some of you. Sorry for this being so long, hope you all can understand my concerns and where I am coming from. Take care all and God Bless.