New Bike Break In


How did you break in your bike?

  • Baby it, with revs kept under 6k

    Votes: 94 33.8%
  • Ride it normally, with revs under 8k

    Votes: 133 47.8%
  • Beat it up, with revs under 10k and a quick oil change

    Votes: 24 8.6%
  • Ride it like you stole it

    Votes: 27 9.7%

  • Total voters
    278

Bert-Aus

Well-Known Member
Just change the fluids and ride that baby!

Bikes can sit in warehouses for years (sometimes) as they wait to be distributed around the world.

My bike for instance was a showroom example that didnt have a battery or or fluids for two years before I bought it.

Every bike just wants to be ridden, change the fluids give her a good up and down through the rev range over the first 600M (1000km's) without sitting in one rev limit for too long and she will love you for it!
 

BKP

New Member
If the bike turned over without an issue, the last time you started it, you've got a starting point.

That being said, if it was mine, I'd:
  • Change all the fluids: brake, coolant, oil (and filter), and give it a completely fresh tank of gas (after draining the tank and fuel line).
  • Put new lube into the wheel bearings
  • Check the battery and wiring. If the battery is still turning over, well, that's great. I'd still put it on a Battery Tender overnight to give it a good charge.
  • Check your tires. Even though they won't have much, if any, tread wear, rubber degrades over time, and if the bike is 4 years old, the tires are probably 5 years old, which is getting borderline. You might want to think about new rubber.
  • Since it's turning over, that also bodes well for the cylinders.

There are *lots* of pre-2010 bikes for sale with very low mileage, that obviously haven't been ridden much at all, with perfectly good engines. I wouldn't be too concerned about break in either. Ride it normally, don't kill it for the next few hundred miles, and you're good to go.

On another note, thank you for your service...
 
BKP that sounds good if I had the money. Really don't know how much that would cost. But you think my tires may be shot with only 463 miles on them?
 

BKP

New Member
BKP that sounds good if I had the money. Really don't know how much that would cost. But you think my tires may be shot with only 463 miles on them?
The fluids are easy, and won't break the bank at all. Gas and oil are a piece of cake. Brake fluid is simple as well (you can get a brake bleeder, which is basically a $10 piece of sized tubing). Coolant doesn't break down as easily, so, you're probably good with that for now. I would just check the level.

As for the tires, it's not just a matter of tread wear, but age, as well. Rubber begins to lose its elasticity after a few years. When you lose elasticity, the rubber hardens, and you lose traction. It becomes more prone to slide. This happens long before a tire shows signs of cracking (dry rot) from age. If the bike's been garaged, that's a good thing (sunlight/UV ages tires faster). This is why tires are date-coded (not all dealers are scrupulously attentive to the age of their merchandise).

You might want to bounce this off any local dealer as well, or just post a question to the manufacturers themselves (Dunlop for stock, or Michelin, my current favorite).

Here's one perspective on tire age (most that I've seen recommend replacement between 5 and 7 years):

Unsafe Motorcycles: Motorcycle Tires: Age Matters
 
The fluids are easy, and won't break the bank at all. Gas and oil are a piece of cake. Brake fluid is simple as well (you can get a brake bleeder, which is basically a $10 piece of sized tubing). Coolant doesn't break down as easily, so, you're probably good with that for now. I would just check the level.

As for the tires, it's not just a matter of tread wear, but age, as well. Rubber begins to lose its elasticity after a few years. When you lose elasticity, the rubber hardens, and you lose traction. It becomes more prone to slide. This happens long before a tire shows signs of cracking (dry rot) from age. If the bike's been garaged, that's a good thing (sunlight/UV ages tires faster). This is why tires are date-coded (not all dealers are scrupulously attentive to the age of their merchandise).

You might want to bounce this off any local dealer as well, or just post a question to the manufacturers themselves (Dunlop for stock, or Michelin, my current favorite).

Here's one perspective on tire age (most that I've seen recommend replacement between 5 and 7 years):

Unsafe Motorcycles: Motorcycle Tires: Age Matters
Just rode it the other day at around 75 MPH on the highway. Gonna go check the date now. Sucks if I have to replace them, they look brand new. Plus wife would kill me. LOL!

HOLY CRAP! Tires manufactured in November 2008. So they are only about 4 years old. Guess I can run them for another 2 years.
 
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Scott_Thomas

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Elite Member
I hear ya! My wife gets pissed if I even mention spending money on my bike. So I just don't tell her. If your bike was stored somewhat climate controlled (garaged) I would use the tires that you have. Storing in extreme cold or heat will reduce their elasticity. Worst case scenario is you get a flat and need to buy new tires down the road. Personally I'd take the chance if they look and feel ok with that mileage. Hope you get some quality time with your bike soon. :D
Thanks bro, They look like new and run fine. I contacted Dunlop and they said they are under warranty for 6 years. So they are 4 years and 3 months old right now. Dunlop stated I shouldn't have a problem keeping them on for 2 more years. But they did stress after 6 years to buy new ones no matter how much tread is on them.
 

Scott_Thomas

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Elite Member

MichaelInVenice

Lot of Class, Mostly Low
Elite Member
Makes sense. Have you had her out yet? Congrats on the retirement from the military and thanks for your service and sacrifice. I would have retired next year if I had stayed in. I had just a hair under 9 years active duty. Should have stayed in the reserves and retired. Hope the VA is treating you right. I'm using my post 9/11 GI bill right now for school. If you ever need to talk or vent hit me up. There are plenty of Vets on the site.
I'm battling VA now for 100% disability. I transferred the Post 9/11 GI Bill to my daughter. My pension is pretty decent to live on but it could be more. I took the bike out for about a 50 mile run in the last year. It ran fine but in first gear after 7K RPM the bike was really vibrating bad. In most gears past 7K it vibrates. In 6th gear at all rpms is very smooth. I'm just really concerned if the pistons rings worn perfectly to the cylinder walls. I'm gonna run some SRT 15W-40 and then do a UOA through Blackstone. I got the bike up over 100 MPH and it felt smooth. So I'm praying the engine is broken in well.
 
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Agreed. Only reason I'd replace them would be either that you notice a problem or that you want to do some track riding. Generally tracks will want very new and unused tires, and for good reason. But for normal uses you should be fine.
I'm far from a track rider at least for now. I just like to cruise the streets at a reasonable speed. Still trying to find riders in my area to cruise with. Tires should last me 2 years more. But I hope to get out and ride more and at least put 3K on the tires before I get new ones. Shinko Ravens 009 can be had for $150.00 for front and rear. Read many reviews and it's the best bang for your buck right now.
 

Scott_Thomas

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Elite Member

Anthony

Fastest Member
Elite Member

Scott_Thomas

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Elite Member

EsrTek

New Member
Mines still in the process with under 75 miles. I took it easy the first 4 miles home, but did take it on highway for 1 mile getting up to 80.
From the 2nd ride on I have been riding it like it's meant and keeping it to 10k max rpm and lots of shifting to change RPM and engine brake.
Will change oil & filter @100 miles and again at 300, then change to synthetic @1000 miles.
 

They say the first 20 miles of the bikes engine life is the break in period. I got my bike with 15 miles on it. Maybe the service guy broke it in for me the correct way. I will never know.
 


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