How To - Front Brake Pad Replacement

  • Thread starter Deleted member 9794
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D

Deleted member 9794

This is my attempt at a front brake pad install "how-to" guide. I reached 9,300+ miles and figured it was time BUT as you'll see in the pictures below, there was PLENTY of life left (they were almost still 100%). I ended up bending the tip of one of the calipers (you can see in step 5) so I went ahead with changing them.

Tools needed: 12mm socket, rachet
Tools recommended: rachet extension, C-clamp (only if your fingers are weak)

Step 1: Loosen these two bolts, do not remove them yet.
Step 2: Remove these bolts - don't let the assembly drop & snatch.


Note: An extension helps provide extra leverage and helps get around the reflector.




Step 3: Remove the two bolts that were loosened earlier and slide the brake pad holder out of the caliper.


Step 4: Push the pistons in, if you can't do so with your fingers, use a c-clamp.


Note: This is about as far as the pistons will go in.


Step 5: Slide out the old pads and slide in new pads while maintaining the same orientation (note: old pads in this picture did not need replacing but I damaged the old pad).


Step 6: Slide new pads and pad holder into caliper.


Step 7: Replace screw that holds pad holder and caliper together. Adjust pads to make a gap for rotor to fit into.
Note: Make sure the dust cover is fully compressed. If you can't squeeze the holder onto the caliper enough to do this then the brake pads may not be seated properly (and you do not need to tighten the screw to achieve this).


Final: Replace caliper, tighten all bolts thoroughly, squeeze hand brake 5~10 times to rebuild pressure, test stopping ability at low speeds, then re-tighten all bolts thoroughly.



If you notice any lack of braking power, take apart and troubleshoot (pads are probably not properly seated).

I apologize if I didn't use the proper technical terms to refer to the parts of the brake caliper, feel free to make correctional comments below and offer additional advice.
 
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gocougs88

Member
This may be a dumb question but I'm a bike noob so here it goes. Whenever I've done breaks on any car I've had my rotor turned or installed a new one, on a bike it's ok to not resurface the rotor?
 

JimmyC

New Member
The Only thing I would add....correct me if I am wrong but I have done it 2 ways when compressing the piston I usually loosen the master cylinder to vent the system as I compress the piston back to it position..I also usually wrap a rag around it so there is no splashing of the brake fluid as it compresses back into the system...brake fluid is known to eat paint..... or The other way to do it to make sure you don't splash brake fluid on the bike is to open the bleeder screw when compressing the piston to vent the system and then top off the brake fluid after....just my .2 cents.

Nice Write up !!
 

D

Deleted member 9794

This may be a dumb question but I'm a bike noob so here it goes. Whenever I've done breaks on any car I've had my rotor turned or installed a new one, on a bike it's ok to not resurface the rotor?
Unless you are letting your brakes wear out bad enough that they eat into and gauge grooves in your rotor (or the rotor is cracked) there is no reason to replace/turn them. Here are videos with info on a bad vs good rotor:

Car: Video: How to Inspect Brake Rotors | eHow.com
Motorcycle: Video: How to Check a Motorcycle Break Rotor | eHow.com



The Only thing I would add....correct me if I am wrong but I have done it 2 ways when compressing the piston I usually loosen the master cylinder to vent the system as I compress the piston back to it position..I also usually wrap a rag around it so there is no splashing of the brake fluid as it compresses back into the system...brake fluid is known to eat paint..... or The other way to do it to make sure you don't splash brake fluid on the bike is to open the bleeder screw when compressing the piston to vent the system and then top off the brake fluid after....just my .2 cents.

Nice Write up !!
From what I read/researched, if you do this (open the system), you may need to bleed your brakes after. By opening he bleeder screw or master cylinder cap you can introduce air into the system. It doesn't hurt anything to leave the system closed, compressing the pistons is not going to introduce any greater strain of pressure than the system can take (its a closed system, what's in there has been in there and should always be there unless there is a leak or significant brake pad wear).

Disclaimer: If you do not agree or trust information on the internet, ask a professional. The strength of my knowledge is only as strong as my research material. If there is a certified mechanic in the building that would like to provide a better answer please chime in. After performing this brake job I was able to perform consecutive "stoppies" (the 1st was a mistake, the rest were kinda fun) so I trust my brake job!
 


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