e.blackadder
New Member
Is it a whine? My old V-star used to have the same whine as my 6R. A mechanic told me once that most Yamahas whine because of the way they cut the gears in the transmission. Nothing to be concerned about, apparently.
Chain maintenance
- Thread starter 99vengeur
- Start date
Best chain lube evar! (imho)
Motorex makes a FAR superior chain lube and cleaner for o-ring chains, barely compares to anything else I've tried, just cleaned my chain with their cleaner again last night and you'd never know that it didn't just ship from the factory and took very little effort to get it that way, and their white color 'road' chain lube is awesome, I don't ride in the rain these days much but when I did I was sure glad when I discovered this product. Anyone looking for something different give it a try! It's not cheap but personally I put only the best into my vehicles, especially my Yamaha!
Motorex makes a FAR superior chain lube and cleaner for o-ring chains, barely compares to anything else I've tried, just cleaned my chain with their cleaner again last night and you'd never know that it didn't just ship from the factory and took very little effort to get it that way, and their white color 'road' chain lube is awesome, I don't ride in the rain these days much but when I did I was sure glad when I discovered this product. Anyone looking for something different give it a try! It's not cheap but personally I put only the best into my vehicles, especially my Yamaha!
SurfJunkie
New Member
There is alot of strange info in this thread.
1. Take it for a quick 10 min ride to get the chain hot.
2. Get it up on the rear stand, and get a section of cardboard between the chain and the rear tire ( avoid splatter of your cleaner/lube on the tire. )
3. Spin the tire by hand while blasting the chain with your cleaner. I personally use Motul cleaner and lube. 10 bucks per can of each roughly at cycle gear.
4. Scrub with the grime brush. Use the long bristle end to get between all the plates if needed. I noticed with the Stockton tool company brush, the main head never seems to really get between the plates efficiently. Wipe clean with towels. May as well wipe the rear sprocket/front sprocket clean as well. Might need to brush the front one with long bristles to get all the crap out.
5. Rotate the tire again and lube. Let the lube sit for 10-15 mins before riding.
Read the back of the products you use for proper instructions. I would highly advise against WD-40 or kerosene/gasoline or anything that caustic. Remember, these are RUBBER o-ring chains and the rubber o-ring is what keeps the lube where it needs to be.
1. Take it for a quick 10 min ride to get the chain hot.
2. Get it up on the rear stand, and get a section of cardboard between the chain and the rear tire ( avoid splatter of your cleaner/lube on the tire. )
3. Spin the tire by hand while blasting the chain with your cleaner. I personally use Motul cleaner and lube. 10 bucks per can of each roughly at cycle gear.
4. Scrub with the grime brush. Use the long bristle end to get between all the plates if needed. I noticed with the Stockton tool company brush, the main head never seems to really get between the plates efficiently. Wipe clean with towels. May as well wipe the rear sprocket/front sprocket clean as well. Might need to brush the front one with long bristles to get all the crap out.
5. Rotate the tire again and lube. Let the lube sit for 10-15 mins before riding.
Read the back of the products you use for proper instructions. I would highly advise against WD-40 or kerosene/gasoline or anything that caustic. Remember, these are RUBBER o-ring chains and the rubber o-ring is what keeps the lube where it needs to be.
Kerosene is reccomended by Yamaha Owner's Manual. Page 7-29.
SurfJunkie
New Member
Just found another forum in which someone did some exposure tests to rubber chain orings with various solvents/substances.
Chain O-ring WD-40 exposure effects study and results - ADVrider
( if linking to another forum isnt allowed, my apologies. )
Apparently after 24 hrs of being submerged in kerosene or WD-40 shows no wear or adverse side effects. The doesnt look at the effects of actually using WD-40 on the chain however. Honda manuals state not to use penetrating oils such as WD-40 as it will displace the lubricant between the Orings and cause premature wear of the chain.
Kerosene seems OK i guess.....
Ill stick with the aerosol Motul stuff. Helps launch some of the debris with the pressure and helps keep the hands clean.
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When Honda says not to use WD-40, they mean as a lubricant, I think. I've used it to clean my chains as long as I've been riding and haven't had any issues so far. I put 13K miles on my first bike over the five years I had it and when I sold it the original chain still looked and worked great.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
Like so much of motorcycle lore, there's a lot of personal preference here. Back in the day, the only time my chain was lubed was by taking it off the bike, soaking it overnight in used motor oil, and then hanging from a tree, to let it drip dry.
That method was learned from my Dad. Those chains didn't have o-rings. He continues to use that method on his current bike. It works for him, he's not going to change, lol.
I go with the kerosene to clean because it works, and being recommended in the manual, I don't have to worry about any adverse effects. Simple peace of mind and personal preference.
Lubing I accomplish with something in a spray can. I've changed twice, since I got the FZ6R and I'm not ready to recommend anything, yet.
The irony is not lost on me though, that my dad just pulls the chain and soaks it overnight, then hangs it from a tree. Everything done. He's completely confident in his method and anything I say about a great product would be totally be lost on him.
What he does works for him. What I do works for me, though I'm willing to try new lubes. I still swear by the kerosene wash, with a grunge brush. The people who created the machine said "Use kerosene to clean your chain." I just can't argue with that.
That method was learned from my Dad. Those chains didn't have o-rings. He continues to use that method on his current bike. It works for him, he's not going to change, lol.
I go with the kerosene to clean because it works, and being recommended in the manual, I don't have to worry about any adverse effects. Simple peace of mind and personal preference.
Lubing I accomplish with something in a spray can. I've changed twice, since I got the FZ6R and I'm not ready to recommend anything, yet.
The irony is not lost on me though, that my dad just pulls the chain and soaks it overnight, then hangs it from a tree. Everything done. He's completely confident in his method and anything I say about a great product would be totally be lost on him.
What he does works for him. What I do works for me, though I'm willing to try new lubes. I still swear by the kerosene wash, with a grunge brush. The people who created the machine said "Use kerosene to clean your chain." I just can't argue with that.
Deathdiesel
New Member
In reality imo any lubricant designated as a metal lubricant is better than absolutely nothing. WD-40 works, its not designed for rubber o rings so it does still effect it, but again its such a small amount that its easily better than nothing.
The stuff thats designed for chains, im sure will work best, but like I said, odds are the other things are more important, such as, keeping it lubed at all times, checking for road debris jammed in the sprockets, how hard you launch, etc etc.
Btw guys dont forget to wipe off excess lube when you mantain your chains, wiping it off is only getting rid of the stuff thats going to fling, as the lube that you want/need is already in the joints/cracks.
The stuff thats designed for chains, im sure will work best, but like I said, odds are the other things are more important, such as, keeping it lubed at all times, checking for road debris jammed in the sprockets, how hard you launch, etc etc.
Btw guys dont forget to wipe off excess lube when you mantain your chains, wiping it off is only getting rid of the stuff thats going to fling, as the lube that you want/need is already in the joints/cracks.
Getting it up in the air for less
Related to all of this chain maintanence enthusiasm -- Is there a good way to get the back end off the ground that doesnt cost $145?
Related to all of this chain maintanence enthusiasm -- Is there a good way to get the back end off the ground that doesnt cost $145?
Harbor freight tools has a swing arm stand that costs $40....be careful as the rubber on swing arm pads will tear...a lot of people have created their own (read electrical tape) anti scratch coating.
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Venom-Motorcycle-Swingarm-Paddock-Kawasaki/dp/B0036QZ8VQ/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1345062894&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=swing+arm+stand+fz6r]Amazon.com: Venom Sport Bike Motorcycle Front & Rear Combo Wheel Lift Stands Fork & Swingarm Stands Paddock Stands Fits Yamaha Honda Kawasaki Suzuki Ducati Bmw: Automotive[/ame]
This one is $62 and comes with the front fork stand as well.
This one is $62 and comes with the front fork stand as well.
I bought those same Venom stands from Kapscomoto.com and I'm very happy with them. Good quality for the price. I didn't get a shocker air freshener with them though, so now I feel gypped. Must be a real classy outfit Amazon is dealing with there.
LMFAO! Is it worth it to have a front stand as well as the rear? I planned on getting a swing arm stand eventually. Not real sure about the benefit of having both.I bought those same Venom stands from Kapscomoto.com and I'm very happy with them. Good quality for the price. I didn't get a shocker air freshener with them though, so now I feel gypped. Must be a real classy outfit Amazon is dealing with there.
If you ever want to take your front wheel off it is. Or storing for long periods of time, keeps flat spots off the tires.
I'm actually surprised at how often I use the front fork stand. The next thing I'm getting is the triple tree stand to make it easier to take my forks off the bike.
I'd like to get an ABBA stand, but I think they're overpriced for what they are.
I use my front stand mostly for cleaning the front rims. That's not why I bought it though.
I was wondering if my front brake was dragging, or if I had a bad bearing. How the heck does one figure that out??
The easy answer is to put the front up on a stand and spin the wheel. Turns out, that's not where the noise was coming from. Pretty tough to figure it out otherwise, though.
The front stand is also useful for checking fluid levels. I put the rear up on a stand and it keeps the bike vertical, but raises the backside. I put the front on a stand as well, and the bike is now more nearly horizontal, to check the coolant or oil level or such.
I don't use the front stand near as much as the rear, but it's handy when I need it.
SurfJunkie
New Member
Just FYI for you guys, Cyclegear seams to have a revolving sale for front and rear paddock stands. Yes they are made in china, but they are solid/beefy.
I got my rear stand on sale for 44.99.
fronts end up being the same on sale as well. so for 90 bucks plus tax you get both. Hard to beat that. As stated, if they aren't on sale this month, just wait 30 or so days and they will be.
Heres the link. On sale currently.
Cycle Gear - Search
EDIT: i currently own both the front and rear stands shown above. No issues what so ever.
I got my rear stand on sale for 44.99.
fronts end up being the same on sale as well. so for 90 bucks plus tax you get both. Hard to beat that. As stated, if they aren't on sale this month, just wait 30 or so days and they will be.
Heres the link. On sale currently.
Cycle Gear - Search
EDIT: i currently own both the front and rear stands shown above. No issues what so ever.
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