This thread is why I wish I had the skills & the balls to rip the engine apart...
Camshaft specs... The next project!
- Thread starter Marthy
- Start date
6 Million... Give me your address, I'll ship you my bike.Me too I think this thread is like the Six million dollar man. "we cab rebuild it make it Better, Stonger, Faster.
:sinister:Ok first thing is to pull out that 600 cc and put in and Nuke powerd steam turbine, direct drive of course:rockon: we dont need no gears :thumbup:. Maybe a couple of reverse thuster to slow us down thow in some quad disc's front and back. Frame is swaped out for carbon fiber. Farings carbon fiber. Now were talking.
I'm not sure how 100% accurate my numbers are. I need to change the leaking gasket when I get it this week, I'll take few minutes to measure. I kind of end up to use the stock timing mark. They were close enough to start for a base run. I like the way the engine pull. Very strong from 4K and 8500 it gives another kick. I'm sure I can time the cams to get more top end (started on the safe side, was worry to ran out of rpm since the FZ6 spin an extra 2K or so) But I really enjoy the way this worked out... I'll see after the dyno run.
I did a 300 miles round trip over the weekend. 42 one way, 45 on the way back set up with all the luggage. Might get better after the fine tune...
Y
yellowfz
Ever get any vid with the Go-Pro ?
Are you going to vid the Dyno run as well ?
Inquiring minds want to know .
Will you do a tutorial of the process afterward ?
Sorry , just catching up .
Are you going to vid the Dyno run as well ?
Inquiring minds want to know .
Will you do a tutorial of the process afterward ?
Sorry , just catching up .
Here's some numbers for the serious modder... lol
As I ran it for in the past few weeks:
IVO: 9* BTDC
IVC: 32* ABDC
Intake lobe center: 101* (most accurate!)
EVO: 40* BBDC
EVC: 5* ATDC
Exhaust lobe center: 110* (most accurate!)
Since the mid range was pulling strong from 4K (like twin strong...) I decide to smooth things out on the bottom (what I like about a I-4) and get a better kick on top. Might help for better MPG also since it won't scavenge as much in the cruising range... That's what I hope a bit.
The new setting:
IVO: 6* BTDC
IVC: 35* ATDC
Intake lobe center: 104* (again, more accurate!!!)
Exhaust: Same. From the little bit of info I found, It's kind of in the ball park. Intake cams usually have the biggest effect on changes.
All degree at 1mm (.040")
Lobe center measured .010" before and after max lift. (degree before + degree after) /2
Hope it help. One thing sure... not so many forum or website that those kind of info are available... I did look, maybe I didn't look at the right place but still.
By the way, that hydraulic chain tensionner is a B&^%$!!!! Doesn't always goes out right away when you crank it in (before install) End up jumping 1 tooth... When you play with cams don't double check... triple check everything!!!
Have fun! Time to put the old girl all back together now...
As I ran it for in the past few weeks:
IVO: 9* BTDC
IVC: 32* ABDC
Intake lobe center: 101* (most accurate!)
EVO: 40* BBDC
EVC: 5* ATDC
Exhaust lobe center: 110* (most accurate!)
Since the mid range was pulling strong from 4K (like twin strong...) I decide to smooth things out on the bottom (what I like about a I-4) and get a better kick on top. Might help for better MPG also since it won't scavenge as much in the cruising range... That's what I hope a bit.
The new setting:
IVO: 6* BTDC
IVC: 35* ATDC
Intake lobe center: 104* (again, more accurate!!!)
Exhaust: Same. From the little bit of info I found, It's kind of in the ball park. Intake cams usually have the biggest effect on changes.
All degree at 1mm (.040")
Lobe center measured .010" before and after max lift. (degree before + degree after) /2
Hope it help. One thing sure... not so many forum or website that those kind of info are available... I did look, maybe I didn't look at the right place but still.
By the way, that hydraulic chain tensionner is a B&^%$!!!! Doesn't always goes out right away when you crank it in (before install) End up jumping 1 tooth... When you play with cams don't double check... triple check everything!!!
Have fun! Time to put the old girl all back together now...
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darksidefz6r
New Member
Any new updates on this? Also are these interference motors? I am very interested in this if it works out well. I may have missed it but what cam gears did you end up using, fz or R6? And some pics of the machining that was done to the gears would be sweet. Thanks and good luck.
It been working great! Still need to swing by the Dyno to get the bike tune properly, and get the magic numbers. My map is alright... I just want to get it 100% right! If I can't get a full day off very soon to go to the Factory Dyno 100 miles away from where I live, I'll go to the Dynojet place about 5 miles from here instead... that should be good enough.
I use the FZ6R cam gears. You need to machine the inside diameter of the gear to fit the FZ6 cams. The FZ6 or R6 cam gears won't fit the timing chain. (wider)
Also, I strongly suggest anyone doing this mod using a degree wheel for the cams spec. As a reference the exhaust gear is right on the timing mark and I had to slot the intake gear about .0120" (align on timing mark) to get to those numbers. Slot to retard the intake cam...
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Nice... here we go!Yeah, yeah, yeah. We've heard that before. Jots.
:justkidding:
Attachments
This is it folks! Got everything ready for tomorrow morning big day! I'll keep everyone posted during the day...
I did installed my PLX MAP sensor yesterday. Kind of too early to feel any difference but I'm using Autotune with the MAP sensor now instead of TPS. I have been convince that it was the way to go to tune for bottom end cruising speed (under 15% throttle)
So we will see how it goes. I would like to tune the bike on the lean side and use the MAP for throttle response. Would be better than running rich to avoid those flat spot...
I did installed my PLX MAP sensor yesterday. Kind of too early to feel any difference but I'm using Autotune with the MAP sensor now instead of TPS. I have been convince that it was the way to go to tune for bottom end cruising speed (under 15% throttle)
So we will see how it goes. I would like to tune the bike on the lean side and use the MAP for throttle response. Would be better than running rich to avoid those flat spot...
Y
yellowfz
Yeah the widedband (PLX) is definitely the way to get better AFR readings.
Keep us apprised of the outcome.
pilninggas
New Member
Good luck.Let get reaadddyyyyyy to rumble! LOL Be leaving soon