I found this budget timing mod on the fz6 forum. Final Impact Winter project; playing w/trigger I believe Marthy did it on his fz6r, but can't find mention of it on our forum. One more future mod to try.
Yes Marthy did this mod. I changed my cams and cam timing, but didn't mess with the trigger since I didn't have an impact gun. That bolt is super tight and the trigger turns while you try to loosen it unless you use an impact gun. Think that bolt is tightened to around 80 or 90 lbft. Not sure if the trigger mod makes a noticeable difference, but Marthy would know for sure. If your gonna do that I would suggest the full fz6 cam swap. You can search eBay and find good deals if patient. The cams make a big and noticeable hp difference. Adrian hit 80s at the wheel with these mods alone. I haven't dyno'd, but I'd bet I'm in low 80s.I found this budget timing mod on the fz6 forum. Final Impact Winter project; playing w/trigger I believe Marthy did it on his fz6r, but can't find mention of it on our forum. One more future mod to try.
Martin, I remember talking to you about this, but what is the added benefit of the trigger mod?Yep. You need to remove the trigger wheel and file down the key way stop (not really a key way...) 0.020" will give you about 3-4 degree. The trigger wheel need to move clockwise... to advance the timing.
Easy cheap mod with great benefit! Even on a bone stock engine
Cheers, that's all I needed to knowThe ecu doesn't know anythings changed, it just tricks it by moving it's T.D.C reference point so that ignition happens sooner, but the injectors "Start of Injection" changes by the same amount. Higher octane fuel is recommended to prevent pinging. Power commander requires an additional controller to change timing $$$
I've had this in place for about a year now. ECU doesn't know jack!My knowledge on ignition timing is sfa, but would this affect the ecu or would it just go off the new figure?
Going to do my homework on this tonight
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Powwwwwaaaaaaa! LOL Good pick up in the mid range.
Yes it does look exactly like that.I've had this in place for about a year now. ECU doesn't know jack!
Really tho; The CPS is the one thing the bike can't have fail as it is its only reference point and there is no fail safe operation (limp mode for firmware override). So it only knows what it sees. We simply gave it a different reference point.
And yes, they used Loctite on that bolt. FZ6 torque spec is 25Ft/lbs but it doesn't come off willingly without an impact gun. And it is a conventional right hand thread.
Q? Does your trigger wheel look like this? i.e. - same lobe count and configuration?
Also, between 13.0:1 AFR from Bazzaz, CAT free exhaust, air box mod and this mod, bike is very responsive and is running cooler plugs (CR10E).
If it holds this same PN: ROTOR 5VX-81673-00-00 the same math can be applied. Here ya go....Yes it does look exactly like that.
How I calculated amount to file off locator Tab:
The OD of the trigger wheel is 2.475" (outer edge of humps)
Dia (inches) * Pie/360 = In/per degree
2.4750" * 3.14159 = circumference/360 = 0.021597" per degree (OUTSIDE EDGE).
To advance 5.0° from its original location the outside must advance:
0.021597"/deg * 4.0 degrees = 4.0 deg = 0.0863"
0.021597"/deg * 5.0 degrees = 5.0 deg = 0.1079"
^^ YOU NEED TO KNOW THIS TO VERIFY YOUR WORK! ^^ i.e. set the finished trigger on the crank (hold with bolt). Rotate CCW and measure to the engine case forming a 90°. Right down value. Rotate fully CW and measure to the case forming the same 90° angle. A dial indicator is best, but veneer calipers will work. The value should match your calculations above.
Calculate how much to file off the Tab:
To determine amount to remove from the Tab I broke it into 3 sections; the hole (ID1), the Slot (ID2) and the Tab (ID3) to determine the diameter to solve for. This is because we have no actual center or I'd to solve for the radius.
ID1 = 0.6305" dia HOLE } measure hole w/calipers "direct"
ID2 = 0.1050" X 2 SLOT } Total distance across open hole MINUS ID1. Multiply this by 2. "indirect"
ID3 = 0.1955" X 1 TAB } measure length of Tab "direct"
=======================
Dia = 1.036" to the center of the Tab and an equal distance opposite.
Meaning, it matters which section of the Tab we solve for, inner, middle or outer edge AND we are solving for a circle or the diameter ~ the red lines.
Apply formula:
1.036" * 3.1415/360° = 0.0090"
4.0° * 0.0090"/deg = 0.036"
4.5° * 0.0090"/deg = 0.040"
5.0° * 0.0090"/deg = 0.045"
6.0° * 0.0090"/deg = 0.054
NOTE: the OEM Locator Tab is 0.0197" wide uncut. File the leading edge to obtain final thickness.
4 deg adv: 0.197" - 0.036" = 0.161" final width 5 deg adv: 0.197" - 0.045" = 0.152" final width!
There ya go. Use a dial indicator to verify amount rotated. Weld up the unused portion once you meet your desired amount of rotation.
Measure OFTEN, REMOVE LITTLE and VERIFY amount of rotation!
** THIS IS A GUIDE ONLY! ** Results will vary!
Good luck!
Do acknowledge that I am NOT RESPONSIBLE for ANYTHING YOU DO TO YOUR VEHICLE!!!