Blowing fuses is a function of over driving that component, it's not because it's so loud, it's improperly setup.
Need help with car audio, Subwoofer recommendations
- Thread starter Deathdiesel
- Start date
i have a 500 watt kenwood amp under my passenger seat a pioneer head unit and a 10 inch rockford fosgate sub in the back of my yaris i would recommend anything polk audio,jbl, rockfordfosgate or JL audio...my sub was a pre enclosed sub and the place that i had install it said it was the smallest/ thinest enclosure they have ever seen!
Deathdiesel
New Member
So guys, how about this setup then?
10" 400watt rms 2ohm 105$
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/E-10D2-Sundown-Audio-Series-Subwoofer/dp/B0077DSSVQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1370305136&sr=8-2&keywords=sundown+audio+subwoofer+E+series+10]Amazon.com: E-10D2 - Sundown Audio 10" Dual 2-Ohm E Series Subwoofer E10D2: Car Electronics[/ame]
Sealed .5cft 10" box 60$
Sound Ordnance™ Bass Bunker Sealed single 10" subwoofer enclosure (Model BB10-50S) at Crutchfield.com
MTX amp 500watts rms @ 2ohm 140$
MTX THUNDER500.1 Mono subwoofer amplifier — 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com
Total cost so far $305
Sound right? My only concern is on the manufactuer website the ohm rating might be different than 2. E Series
10" 400watt rms 2ohm 105$
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/E-10D2-Sundown-Audio-Series-Subwoofer/dp/B0077DSSVQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1370305136&sr=8-2&keywords=sundown+audio+subwoofer+E+series+10]Amazon.com: E-10D2 - Sundown Audio 10" Dual 2-Ohm E Series Subwoofer E10D2: Car Electronics[/ame]
Sealed .5cft 10" box 60$
Sound Ordnance™ Bass Bunker Sealed single 10" subwoofer enclosure (Model BB10-50S) at Crutchfield.com
MTX amp 500watts rms @ 2ohm 140$
MTX THUNDER500.1 Mono subwoofer amplifier — 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com
Total cost so far $305
Sound right? My only concern is on the manufactuer website the ohm rating might be different than 2. E Series
That's enough to get you by on the cheap. Wiring kit might cost anywhere from $50-$150 depending on what you get with decent RCA cables, factor that in too
Deathdiesel
New Member
This what you mean?
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top"]Amazon.com: KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit: Car Electronics[/ame]
This all I need or is there a different set I need?
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top"]Amazon.com: KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit: Car Electronics[/ame]
This all I need or is there a different set I need?
That'll do pig.... that's do
Deathdiesel
New Member
Im so confused at online people. I keep hearing these guys mention them pairing these subs with like 1000-3500watt amps. How does that make sense even remotely? Wouldnt it shred any sub designed for 400 watts rms?
Also still debating between a 10" or 12"
Also still debating between a 10" or 12"
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Most amps have multiple channels.
I'm guessing the bigger amps are using alot of channels.Instead of drawing 3500 watts out of one channel.They probably have 4-8 channels using 300 watts apiece.
When Visonik got big a decade ago, I bought two of the premium 1000 watt 15's.Instead of investing in a amp that can power 1000 watts x2 channel, I bought a amp that was 1000 watts x 1, 500x2 and just used one channel @ 1000 watts to power both.
It worked fine + it was the only way my amp would match its Ohms with the speakers.If I remember correctly, my amps 2 ohms with one channel used, 8 ohms with both used.But my speakers are 2 ohm.
If you get up towards 4-600 watts you might want to invest in a digital capacitor to keep your lights from dimming with the bass.They don't cost much more than a sub and are pretty easy to install.Ground wire, power in, power out + a signal/remote wire
Amp peak power numbers are exaggerated more than subs. When I used to sell this stuff at circuit city we had a 1000 watt Sony amp that only had 200 watt rms. What a f***ing lie a thousand watt amp!!
Also, more likely to blow a sub on a system that's underpowered. Something about distortion and feedback with the amp working at 100% and trying to keep up.... don't remember exactly. More power is fine. Its like with a car, having more power is fine. You can cruise all day at 35mph in a vette.
You can always tune an amp lower, you cannot try to create power out of a turd though.
I would suggest that you get an amp that has an rms rating at the final ohm load of your sub that is about 20% higher than the rating of your sub. This will allow your amp to run cooler and more efficiently since you will be able to keep the gain down on the amp, which will generate less heat on all the amps components.
I would suggest that you get an amp that has an rms rating at the final ohm load of your sub that is about 20% higher than the rating of your sub. This will allow your amp to run cooler and more efficiently since you will be able to keep the gain down on the amp, which will generate less heat on all the amps components.
darksidefz6r
New Member
If all you are wanting is some more bass but don't care if everyone else hears it go with a 10" sub. With a decent or quality sub you will get better sound out of a 10" vs a 12" or larger. I always liked the ways Diamond Audio stuff sounds and is priced with rockford, jl, and the like. JL also makes some nice stuff but their amps seemed to require more to run than diamond and rockford stuff. One thing I have not heard mentioned is having the required space in the enclosure for the sub. While the space saver enclosures are nice, you won't ever get the performance our of your sub if it really needs more space so factor that into your purchase as well.
The same goes for an engine as well.... LOL
Deathdiesel
New Member
Okay that helps a lot. So if my subwoofer has a rms rating of 400 would 500 be good? Also is 3.8ohm basically 4 or what? On the manufactuers website for the subwoofer they say their ohm is 3.8, does that mean I need a different amp?
It's probably the Znom, it's just a 4 ohm sub. It's fine.
If you have a budget in mind I can take a look at what I have in my stockpile of stuff and what would work for you and make you a sweet package on something that'll sound really good, and probably better than what you'd end up with. Let me know if you have any interest in that.
With comparable specs, the 10 inch sub will give you more thump, a harder hit over a 12.
Way too many variables to make that statement. Which really isn't completely accurate.
Agree with Nismos on this one. While I agree 10 inch subs are capable of some awesome bass I don't think that you can say it will hit harder then a 12 inch. My 12" Xplod subs in my old enclosure could almost open the hatch of my Z28, but in a smaller sealed enclosure they still put out some clean bass, but not the same thump. My 10's in my old car were in a HUGE dual bandpass box and the bass could be heard and felt for quite a ways. Very clean bass too. Loved that box, but as stated (it was HUGE). My current box is a dual sealed enclosure that fits in the compartments under the rear seat of my Quad Cab Dodge Ram 4x4. Can't take up my seat room with 3 kids and a wife. :banghead:
The solution? Turn your seats into enclosures and build the seats into them
The solution? Turn your seats into enclosures and build the seats into them
LOL! The enclosures sound fine. I don't have the time or energy to build custom enclosures. They sound good, just don't drive like they did with the hatchback enclosure I had in the Z28.
Deathdiesel
New Member
I have thought about doing this, but wouldnt I have to build a enclosure inside the seats basically? My car doesnt really have the room for this.The solution? Turn your seats into enclosures and build the seats into them
What did you have in mind for around 300$? I really wanna make sure I have something that is going to sound good for a long time and last as well. Ive seen waaaay too many shitty subwoofer setups, and very few good ones. Whether its my set up, or anyones, I dont want it to sound like shit in 2 years.
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