Issues after installing +1 front sprocket
- Thread starter Nastybutler
- Start date
Y
yellowfz
We need a community manual for everyone. There is a push rod that goes from the left side to the right side to activate/release the clutch, it consists of a rod, ball bearing, and a adjuster.Arrow lines already are lined up (with the clutch lever out).
What push rod are you refering to, and how do you adjust it?
When you pull the clutch the arm on the left side of the bike pushes against the rod activating the clutch or should I say releasing the clutch plates.
Have had to adjust clutches like this for a long time when rebuilding clutches, I can't see why just removing the left side would require the adjustment to be needed, but stranger things have happened.
Sadly only way to adjust the push rod is to take the clutch housing off.
Again don't see why just removing the left side would warrant push rod readjustment.
When checking marks on left side cable should be off and twist the arm toward the mark , arm should stop and arrow should line up with mark, if not the push rod has to be adjusted to make the alignment correct.
If all of this is correct, the new levers just need getting use to.
Phew!
Last edited by a moderator:
Michael Wilson
New Member
Adjusting your clutch and adjusting the clutch cable are two complete different things. The clutch cable adjustment is for when the actual clutch cable stretches. The clutch adjustment is for when the clutch plates wear down. Two different adjustments that people don't understand...
danieljardim
New Member
You should check the piece on top of the seat that attaches to the handlebar.Maybe my headlight fluid is low.
Sometimes they go bad too.
Michael Wilson
New Member
Just adjust the cluth and clutch cable properly. That's the most common solution/mistake.
OKay first off NB if I can find your email I'll send you the tech manual.
Secondly I should slap you for even messing with it in the first place :catfight:
step one.. remove black cover and loosen front sprocket.
step two.. loosen rear wheel and give enough slack to remove chain off rear sprocket then off the front sprocket.
step three.. insert new crush washer and nut with new front sprocket.
step four.. replace chain on front sprocket then on rear, then tighten rear wheel.
step five.. drink a beer or four and have wife step on rear brake and tighten sprocket and BAZINGA! drink more beer..
That's basically how we did 99's :steve:
:backtotopic:
I hope the manual helps..
Secondly I should slap you for even messing with it in the first place :catfight:
step one.. remove black cover and loosen front sprocket.
step two.. loosen rear wheel and give enough slack to remove chain off rear sprocket then off the front sprocket.
step three.. insert new crush washer and nut with new front sprocket.
step four.. replace chain on front sprocket then on rear, then tighten rear wheel.
step five.. drink a beer or four and have wife step on rear brake and tighten sprocket and BAZINGA! drink more beer..
That's basically how we did 99's :steve:
:backtotopic:
I hope the manual helps..
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Ha ha, okay, well the sprocket is already changed. I did it when I changed my tires at the beginning of the season. But even with the rear tire off I couldn't get the chain off the front sprocket. I guess I should have loosened the sprocket nut instead of taking off the clutch actuator shaft.
What's done is done. Now I'm trying to undo it.
And thanks, but I've got the service manual on CD, I just didn't have it with me when I did it at my dad's shop. It would have told me how to do it proper, I'm sure, but it doesn't tell me how to correct the issue I'm having now...
That could very well be it, although I didn't mess with the lever when I changed the sprocket. I'll check it when I get home just to make sure the slack in the line didn't bugger it up somehow.
Y
yellowfz
With my 2 finger short levers I have to pull all the way to the grip and then it doesn't take much to engage the clutch from that point, lever angle is at position number 1, if on 4 it takes a little more let off to engage clutch, and that is with recommended slack.
The thing is, I didn't have this issue before I changed out the sprocket. The lever had a good half inch or more from the grip before it started to hit the friction zone in the 1st position. It's not that it's undrivable or anything, it's just that I liked it better the way it was before. I might have to admit defeat on this if the clutch cable isn't kinked up around the lever in any way as MistahT suggested. I'll find out when I get home next week.