How to Sync Throttle Bodies on the FZ6R


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aquestionpoint

Member
Linkgt, If you are in N or with the cluch pulled in and rev it a bit then just cut the throttle, does it die? I had a bad power commander, It was driving me CRAZY! There's a few old threads with people who had the same thing as me. Dyno Jet just replaced it for me and it totally fixed the problem. Make sure your PCV has the lateset firmware update. Search around for that. Check Marthy's PCV map pages and make sure you have the approperiate adjustments for the 0% throttle. That may help also.
Your problem does sound different than mine because of how you describe it. Your dad may be onto somethig with fuel delivery also. GL
 
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linkgt

linkgt

Member
aquestionpoint said:
Linkgt, If you are in N or with the cluch pulled in and rev it a bit then just cut the throttle, does it die? I had a bad power commander, It was driving me CRAZY! There's a few old threads with people who had the same thing as me. Dyno Jet just replaced it for me and it totally fixed the problem. Make sure your PCV has the lateset firmware update. Search around for that. Check Marthy's PCV map pages and make sure you have the approperiate adjustments for the 0% throttle. That may help also.
Your problem does sound different than mine because of how you describe it. Your dad may be onto somethig with fuel delivery also. GL
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Hm, I dont think it's ever died on me if rev it and just cut it. Good idea though on the firmware update. I'll do that this weekend as well. thanks :)
 
linkgt

linkgt

Member
Ok I'm back with an update. Here is what I did to the bike this week:

1)change oil (did not help, still had issue after)
2)Update Firmware on PC-V (also did not help)
3)Re-load Marthys maps (same)

I received my battery yesterday and I got a chance to install it when I got home today. The bike started a lot better and the idle was also better than with the old battery (not sure how the battery affects this?) Well, I took it out for a quick ride to the gym and back home. On both the Ride to and back, I did not experience the issue at all. I even took at at very low RPMS(below 5k) on all gears (which was where the problem would occur). It did not burp once! it was a smooth ride.

I will try to ride my bike when I can (there's supposed to be nasty weather for the remainder of the week unfortunately) and give another status update. I really hope this new battery fixed this issue....
 
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jtostenr

New Member
Thanks for the guide, this helped a lot. It was actually pretty easy, but those adjustment screws sure are sensitive.

By the way, the new Motion Pro tool comes with everything you need and doesn't use mercury anymore.

Jeff
 
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Scott_Thomas

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Elite Member
jtostenr said:
Thanks for the guide, this helped a lot. It was actually pretty easy, but those adjustment screws sure are sensitive.

By the way, the new Motion Pro tool comes with everything you need and doesn't use mercury anymore.

Jeff
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Didn't need to buy any adapters? Do you have a link to the one you bought? I was thinking of getting one for future use.
 
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Scott_Thomas

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Elite Member
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bleedinblue

Senior Member
Elite Member
Scott_Thomas said:
Thanks, I am not in need of a sync anytime soon. I read through some old threads a while back and thought I'd grab one of these. I noticed price varied greatly as well.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
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I need to do mine, I've got fresh plugs and everything in my bike and it runs great, but it isn't idleing as smoothly as she used to.IndySuperbikes has a store on Amazon and the Motion Pro kit is $71 shipped from them through Amazon.I'm waitng on a replacement card to actually activate but I'm gonna order one this week.
 
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Scott_Thomas

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Elite Member
bleedinblue said:
I need to do mine, I've got fresh plugs and everything in my bike and it runs great, but it isn't idleing as smoothly as she used to.IndySuperbikes has a store on Amazon and the Motion Pro kit is $71 shipped from them through Amazon.I'm waitng on a replacement card to actually activate but I'm gonna order one this week.
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Do you need any special adapter or does it come with everything you need? I know from early posted some said they needed special adapters.
 
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bleedinblue

Senior Member
Elite Member
Scott_Thomas said:
Do you need any special adapter or does it come with everything you need? I know from early posted some said they needed special adapters.
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I've looked at the Motion Pro kit on a dozen stores and they all say the same thing about SOME Yamahas needing an adaptor.I'm guessing it fits our bike, but I'll let you know.I'm riding distance from Indy Superbike so I'll ride to the real store if I need a part.
 
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Scott_Thomas

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Elite Member
bleedinblue said:
I've looked at the Motion Pro kit on a dozen stores and they all say the same thing about SOME Yamahas needing an adaptor.I'm guessing it fits our bike, but I'll let you know.I'm riding distance from Indy Superbike so I'll ride to the real store if I need a part.
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Alright, thanks.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
 
P

PhatSV6

New Member
Failure

Hi guys I just wanted to say that if your going to do this just use a two way tool to do cyl 2 to 1 then match 3 to 1 then 4 to 1 then all should be identical.

If you use a 4way manometer then it's too hard to get them all even as changing one cyl will increase or decrease the affects of all other cyl and some more than others.

Trust me 4 hours today and could not get all four close without one being thrown way out . I'm talking cm's :banghead::banghead::banghead:
 

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D

dart1963

Super Moderator
Elite Member
PhatSV6 said:
Hi guys I just wanted to say that if your going to do this just use a two way tool to do cyl 2 to 1 then match 3 to 1 then 4 to 1 then all should be identical.

If you use a 4way manometer then it's too hard to get them all even as changing one cyl will increase or decrease the affects of all other cyl and some more than others.

Trust me 4 hours today and could not get all four close without one being thrown way out . I'm talking cm's :banghead::banghead::banghead:
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did you let the bike warm up? I don't recall any issues tweaking on the screws and getting them all close.
I added a before and after video here: http://www.600cc.org/forum/249854-post37.html
 
P

PhatSV6

New Member
dart1963 said:
did you let the bike warm up? I don't recall any issues tweaking on the screws and getting them all close.
I added a before and after video here: http://www.600cc.org/forum/249854-post37.html
Click to expand...
Yeh completely warmed up its just say you have 4 cyclek with a backyard manometer where all pipes draw vacuums from the same liquid basically needing the vacuums from the other cylinders to stop one from rising to high.

But put your head around this:

I'll use psi for example

Pot 1 2 3 4
36 36 36 36. Psi ideal and will show even in Mano meter

Now this is the ****ed part pardon the language
Pot 1 2 3 4
36 38 38 40 psi not ideal but will still show Mano meter level as the last pot is drawing 4 extra psi to bring the other two down.

Not sure how the Mercury ones work if they are indie ideal liaise deposits or sharing like my home made one
 
B

bigddy263

Member
PhatSV6 said:
Hi guys I just wanted to say that if your going to do this just use a two way tool to do cyl 2 to 1 then match 3 to 1 then 4 to 1 then all should be identical.

If you use a 4way manometer then it's too hard to get them all even as changing one cyl will increase or decrease the affects of all other cyl and some more than others.

Trust me 4 hours today and could not get all four close without one being thrown way out . I'm talking cm's :banghead::banghead::banghead:
Click to expand...

You said it yourself, when you change one the others move.
When you adjusted #3 to match #1, you changed #2. That's exactly why you use a 4 way meter.
 
X

XJ6steve

New Member
The official Yamaha service manual specifies a difference (comparison) limit at 6.8 mmHg. This is negligible on most gauges. My Carbtune II has 2 cm divisions (like most commercial gauges).

Haynes now have made a manual for the XJ6 FZ6R. Anybody purchased it -
what have they specified?

Steve
 

F

Final Impact

Member
Looking at all four at once is the best way. If using home made DIY mano, connect a T to the vacuum sensor and get the engine vacuum AND all four cylinders in sync while meeting spec for engine manifold vacuum.

Hint - leaner ( more air ) increases vacuum while less air decreases engine vacuum AND idle speed.

Those in warmer climates or higher altitudes may want to richen the mixture for increased idle stability. This means you **may need to move** #1 and adjust others to match. This impacts idle air AFR.

Anyone having an engine that dies when coming down from high rpm may want to richen all four too (lower engine vacuum).

Goal, pick your idle speed, adjust AFR and maintain a range of idle speed adjustment via thumb screw. If TB screws lead to main idle screw having no effect you likely need to adjust all 4 sync screws to make it happy!
 
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