Bike doesn't start, display resetting


H

HillCountryRider

New Member
So, I had jury duty this morning. After being released I am riding downtown in stop and go traffic and the bike stalls a couple times. Thought it was odd but if started right up each time. Once I get home and turn it off and have lunch I get back on, about an hour later, and it wouldn't start...display was dad so I thought the battery was dead. I bump start (push start) it runs but the display will light up then go out then light up again. Also, the tach does it's little startup test over and over....any ideas, bad ecu? Bad alternator?

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2
 
HillCountryRider said:
So, I had jury duty this morning. After being released I am riding downtown in stop and go traffic and the bike stalls a couple times. Thought it was odd but if started right up each time. Once I get home and turn it off and have lunch I get back on, about an hour later, and it wouldn't start...display was dad so I thought the battery was dead. I bump start (push start) it runs but the display will light up then go out then light up again. Also, the tach does it's little startup test over and over....any ideas, bad ecu? Bad alternator?

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

electrical short....or loose connection somewhere....
 
Its not a loose connect. Its more then likely an engine code that's making the engine go into limp mode.
 
After further investigation I notice the ECU is clicking three times, sometimes more when I turn the ignition switch on and then when I try starting the bike it (the ECU) makes a grinding type of noise.....

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75d4cPS7R7c]Bike problem - YouTube[/ame]
 
leem00 said:
electrical short....or loose connection somewhere....
Click to expand...

I just checked all connections I could fine and everything looked good. I think I'll charge the battery for a little bit and see what happens...

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2
 
Michael Wilson said:
Its not a loose connect. Its more then likely an engine code that's making the engine go into limp mode.
Click to expand...

The engine light never came on...I cycled through the codes and there was nothing odd.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2
 
I do not believe that is your ECU. That looks like a relay.
 
I'm with jay. its hard acruately diagnose problems without being there. Ecu rarely goes bad. Besides they super expensive. Check the relay out first.
 
The clicking screams relay as well.
 
Okay here i may be to the rescue but will see i may have the solution for you my friend ill send you my paypal info later for the consultant fee.

1st. Do you have a Digital Multimeter at hand. (if you dont they sell for about 5.99 to about 200.00 but u dont need to spend so much i got one for 19.99

2nd. You have a multimeter now so the next step would be to take your seat off and get the the battery of the motorcycle.

3rd. You will hook red wire with a pin at the tip to the positive side of the battery and then hook the black part with a pin in the end to the negative side of the battery. (assistance may be needed to help hold the pins down on the battery.

4th. You want to turn the Multimeter on and see what the readings come out to it with the motorcycle off. If the reading is about 12.5 off then your in the clear. 11V is probable pushing it but under 10V is bad.

5th. Turn the motorcycle on and leave the multimeter hooked up to it and see what reading it comes back with it should be around 14.5 to possible even 15.5V. If you rev the bike up the Volts will go up and thats good.

Give this a try it should work great for you to find out if your charging system is working correctly for the motorcycle. If this is all in the clear then your charging system is good if numbers come out lower then what i have posted on the top you could have a bad Regulator or your stator could be bad also or maybe even both. I did not get a chance to see what year your bike is but if its a newer bike let the dealer deal with it if its still under the warrenty but if it is not well then try the steps out. Even if it is it dont hurt to try the steps out cause you get some hands on and learn something new and also next time something like this happens you will know what to do. Keep me posted on the situation and ill do my best to help you out with any questions you may have. I am currently at work so dont expect a quick response from me but then again you might get a quick response from me if i am not doing anything. I look forward to hearing from you.


Your Friend Truely From FZ6R Forums: WILL415

P.S. I worte this in a hurry excuse if some parts dont make sense ha!
 
will415 said:
Okay here i may be to the rescue but will see i may have the solution for you my friend ill send you my paypal info later for the consultant fee.

1st. Do you have a Digital Multimeter at hand. (if you dont they sell for about 5.99 to about 200.00 but u dont need to spend so much i got one for 19.99

2nd. You have a multimeter now so the next step would be to take your seat off and get the the battery of the motorcycle.

3rd. You will hook red wire with a pin at the tip to the positive side of the battery and then hook the black part with a pin in the end to the negative side of the battery. (assistance may be needed to help hold the pins down on the battery.

4th. You want to turn the Multimeter on and see what the readings come out to it with the motorcycle off. If the reading is about 12.5 off then your in the clear. 11V is probable pushing it but under 10V is bad.

5th. Turn the motorcycle on and leave the multimeter hooked up to it and see what reading it comes back with it should be around 14.5 to possible even 15.5V. If you rev the bike up the Volts will go up and thats good.

Give this a try it should work great for you to find out if your charging system is working correctly for the motorcycle. If this is all in the clear then your charging system is good if numbers come out lower then what i have posted on the top you could have a bad Regulator or your stator could be bad also or maybe even both. I did not get a chance to see what year your bike is but if its a newer bike let the dealer deal with it if its still under the warrenty but if it is not well then try the steps out. Even if it is it dont hurt to try the steps out cause you get some hands on and learn something new and also next time something like this happens you will know what to do. Keep me posted on the situation and ill do my best to help you out with any questions you may have. I am currently at work so dont expect a quick response from me but then again you might get a quick response from me if i am not doing anything. I look forward to hearing from you.


Your Friend Truely From FZ6R Forums: WILL415

P.S. I worte this in a hurry excuse if some parts dont make sense ha!
Click to expand...

dude seriously next time you are going to write on the forum you need to take your time and do it right.... i dont care if it takes you all day and all night and the next day.

lmfao j/k
 
will415 said:
Okay here i may be to the rescue but will see i may have the solution for you my friend ill send you my paypal info later for the consultant fee.

1st. Do you have a Digital Multimeter at hand. (if you dont they sell for about 5.99 to about 200.00 but u dont need to spend so much i got one for 19.99

2nd. You have a multimeter now so the next step would be to take your seat off and get the the battery of the motorcycle.

3rd. You will hook red wire with a pin at the tip to the positive side of the battery and then hook the black part with a pin in the end to the negative side of the battery. (assistance may be needed to help hold the pins down on the battery.

4th. You want to turn the Multimeter on and see what the readings come out to it with the motorcycle off. If the reading is about 12.5 off then your in the clear. 11V is probable pushing it but under 10V is bad.

5th. Turn the motorcycle on and leave the multimeter hooked up to it and see what reading it comes back with it should be around 14.5 to possible even 15.5V. If you rev the bike up the Volts will go up and thats good.

Give this a try it should work great for you to find out if your charging system is working correctly for the motorcycle. If this is all in the clear then your charging system is good if numbers come out lower then what i have posted on the top you could have a bad Regulator or your stator could be bad also or maybe even both. I did not get a chance to see what year your bike is but if its a newer bike let the dealer deal with it if its still under the warrenty but if it is not well then try the steps out. Even if it is it dont hurt to try the steps out cause you get some hands on and learn something new and also next time something like this happens you will know what to do. Keep me posted on the situation and ill do my best to help you out with any questions you may have. I am currently at work so dont expect a quick response from me but then again you might get a quick response from me if i am not doing anything. I look forward to hearing from you.


Your Friend Truely From FZ6R Forums: WILL415

P.S. I worte this in a hurry excuse if some parts dont make sense ha!
Click to expand...

I do have a multimeter...the problem is I can't get the bike started, but if it starts after charging this will be my first test, THANKS!!!!
 
Really seems like your battery is toast... But your symptoms are a little different. The grinding when trying to start is normal of a dead batt. But I have not heard the constant clicking when just turning the key. Could be that its just so dead that specific relay is just getting enough power to click open/closed.

Will is right on about measuring the battery.
 
SHE'S RUNNING!!!!! Thanks to will415 and Jay

I connected the multimeter to the battery to check the voltage and it was 12.53...perfect. I clicked the starter and saw a rather large spark come from under the protective cover on the positive side of the battery...wiggled the positive terminal and it was really loose. Tightened that bad boy up and she purred to life. Thanks for helping me step outside the box guys...if you're ever here in TEXAS I'll buy the rounds!!!
 
jspansel said:
Really seems like your battery is toast... But your symptoms are a little different. The grinding when trying to start is normal of a dead batt. But I have not heard the constant clicking when just turning the key. Could be that its just so dead that specific relay is just getting enough power to click open/closed.

Will is right on about measuring the battery.
Click to expand...

YESSIR...it was grinding because there was juice...just not enough amps since it wasn't fully connected...thanks so much!
 

HillCountryRider said:
YESSIR...it was grinding because there was juice...just not enough amps since it wasn't fully connected...thanks so much!
Click to expand...

Awesome! Glad she is back up and running with minimal down time!

Gotta give some credit to leem! He DID say loose connection ;)
 
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