Stock FZ1 Handlebars on FZ6R

[picnicface]

I've seen people online replace their stock handlebars with FZ1 bars on their FZ6, but I can't find much helpful info on doing that to the FZ6R.

My question is: Can you run stock FZ1 handlebars on the FZ6R, without needing to cut the bars so they don't run into the tank? I don't want to cut the bars because I want to use the threading to install the stock Yamaha bar ends.

Forgive me if this is a common question. I just can't seem to find a direct answer. Hopefully someone has done this mod to their FZ6R and will be able to give me some useful insight. Thanks!

 

[Chucker]

They'll work. You just need to drill one small hole for a nub that keeps the controls straight. Just compare the FZ1 bars to the stock bars and you'll see where to drill the hole. Then you'll need to move your bar risers to the forward position. I left my bars, clutch lever, and brake lever a little loose while I turned the wheel lock to lock to determine the best angle for everything. Mine don't touch the fairing but will pinch my thumbs against the tank at full lock on either side. My horn button touches on the left if I go to full lock. The reality is you don't normally need to go to full lock.

 

[picnicface]

They'll work. You just need to drill one small hole for a nub that keeps the controls straight. Just compare the FZ1 bars to the stock bars and you'll see where to drill the hole. Then you'll need to move your bar risers to the forward position. I left my bars, clutch lever, and brake lever a little loose while I turned the wheel lock to lock to determine the best angle for everything. Mine don't touch the fairing but will pinch my thumbs against the tank at full lock on either side. My horn button touches on the left if I go to full lock. The reality is you don't normally need to go to full lock.

Thanks. Do you have pictures of your bike with FZ1 bars on? Also, how do I change the position of the bar risers? As long as the bars don't smash in to the tank at full lock then I'm fine with it. A little touch, or possible thumb pinch is OK with me. It's a sacrifice I'm willing to make to put on some lower bars.

 

[Chucker]

Here are the only pics I have that really show the bars. I think you'll want to move them forward. It's pretty simple and makes for a good riding position with these bars.

 

[picnicface]

Wow, thank you very much! I checked my manual for handlebar position and it said to bring the bike to a Yamaha dealer. The page you posted was more helpful. After looking at the stock risers on Google images though, I kind of guessed it was just a matter of rotating the them because they're offset a little.

I just ordered the FZ1 bars on Amazon prime so they should be here soon. Just curious, how tall are you? I just want to gauge how my position will be with the FZ1 bars.

 

[Chucker]

I'm around 6'1".

 

[latony007]

im really short, after the 25 minute ride home from buying the bike my wrists were killing me from leaning to far forward. Bought a pair of Rox pivoting risers and that solved the problem so keep those in mind if you have issues.

 

[Malicioso]

Wow, thank you very much! I checked my manual for handlebar position and it said to bring the bike to a Yamaha dealer.

You can easily do it your self, I did this over the weekend that just passed and it wasn't hard thing to do. Just a little tricky to get to the nuts under the triple tree to loosen them up with a 14mm ring spanner.

What I did is to loosen up the right ride riser first, to do this you must turn the wheel left and let the lock mechanism keep the bar from turning, then put the ring end of the spanner on so that the angle of the spanner is up and in turn doesn't touch the fairings once you turn the nut, then on the open end slide a small tube for leverage and slowly turn the nut, then do the same on the other side with the only difference being you have to hold the bar from turning and there is a wire clip that needs to be detached so you can mover some wiring out of the way. I also placed a thick cloth in the area I was working so not to damage any paint or scratch any of the plastics.

Hard to explain without photos but I hope that makes some sense?

 

[picnicface]

Thanks, that does make sense. I appreciate your advice. I wasn't actually planning on taking my bike to a dealer to change the handlebar position. I just found it funny that the manual for our bikes doesn't give instructions but rather tells us to go to a dealer.

I'm gonna change the handlebar position tonight so it's all ready for when the new bars come. I'll post pics after the new bars are on.

 

[picnicface]

im really short, after the 25 minute ride home from buying the bike my wrists were killing me from leaning to far forward. Bought a pair of Rox pivoting risers and that solved the problem so keep those in mind if you have issues.

Thanks, but I'm having the opposite problem. I'm 6' 4" and the bars are too upright for me. I want to get them lower without hitting the tank or compromising the comfortable position. It seems like the FZ1 bars might do the trick.

 

[Chucker]

Thanks, but I'm having the opposite problem. I'm 6' 4" and the bars are too upright for me. I want to get them lower without hitting the tank or compromising the comfortable position. It seems like the FZ1 bars might do the trick.

Judging from where my bars are and where they fit at full lock on either side, I would suggest you can't get lower than this without modding your fairing.

 

[Chucker]

You can easily do it your self, I did this over the weekend that just passed and it wasn't hard thing to do. Just a little tricky to get to the nuts under the triple tree to loosen them up with a 14mm ring spanner.

What I did is to loosen up the right ride riser first, to do this you must turn the wheel left and let the lock mechanism keep the bar from turning, then put the ring end of the spanner on so that the angle of the spanner is up and in turn doesn't touch the fairings once you turn the nut, then on the open end slide a small tube for leverage and slowly turn the nut, then do the same on the other side with the only difference being you have to hold the bar from turning and there is a wire clip that needs to be detached so you can mover some wiring out of the way. I also placed a thick cloth in the area I was working so not to damage any paint or scratch any of the plastics.

Hard to explain without photos but I hope that makes some sense?

I don't specifically remember how I did this on mine as it was a few years ago, but I can tell you it wasn't this difficult. I used a ratchet, socket, and probably an extension. I don't remember having any difficulties and it took me next to no time. The most time was spent removing and reinstalling the controls and grips. Just be sure to loosen the risers before removing the handlebar.

 

[Malicioso]

I don't specifically remember how I did this on mine as it was a few years ago, but I can tell you it wasn't this difficult. I used a ratchet, socket, and probably an extension. I don't remember having any difficulties and it took me next to no time. The most time was spent removing and reinstalling the controls and grips. Just be sure to loosen the risers before removing the handlebar.

I tried the socket + ratchet and extension idea but for some reason the socket wouldn't sit on the nut properly and if I would have turned it most likely I would have rounded off the nut. I did this from underneath, reaching up to the nut. Might have been all the wiring that was getting in the way perhaps??? But the way I did it worked and wasn't hard to do, I've used that method for undoing suspension bolts on cars when I haven't had access to a breaker bar.

 

[pavmentsurfer]

I rotated my mounts. It was SUPER easy. I just unbolted the bars (leaving everything connected) and set them back on the tank on a protective towel. Then used a ratchet and extension from under the fairing and loosened off the bolts, rotated the clamps and, before I tightened the clamps back up, I re-installed the bars temporarily so the clamps were lined up as I tightened them. Once tight i just adjusted my bars to where I wanted them and I was done. took about 30 minutes total. Im 6.1 and it helped alot in getting my body more forward. But I'm still sitting too upright so after reading this thread I bought a set of FZ1 bars on e-bay. Im hoping they get me down just that little bit lower to where I'm more comfortable at more aggressive riding angles.

I can't understand why Yamaha doesnt offer a shorter clamp like they do for the FZ1 though. The clamp itself is extremely and unnecessarily high. 1 inch could be shaved off VERY easily which would allow a guy like me to use the stock bars more comfortably. Im hoping the FZ1 bars are enough. If not, I'm going with adjustable Apex adjustable clip ons under the triple clamp with the inner fairing trimmed a bit.

 

[picnicface]

I'm around 6'1".

I received the bars today and successfully installed them. I did however run into a few problems after I finished the install (see pictures).

The brake lever had to be adjusted so it wouldn't run into the fairing at full left lock. This was important because I need to be able to fully lock the bars to the left to engage the steering lock.

On the other side, the clutch lever runs into the front fairing, and that can't be avoided unless the clutch lever is ridiculously low. I compromised but now the clutch will run into the fairing. I'll have to remember to avoid that.

Has anyone had that problem with their FZ1 bar mod? I can't think of a way to avoid that besides turning the risers back to their stock position. That might cause more interference with the tank though.

The pros outweigh the cons though, because the riding position is much more comfortable now. A little bit more aggressive without being uncomfortable.

 

[rys]

The shop that installed the FZ1 bars on mine used the FZ1 risers and also rotated the bars upward slightly to keep them from contacting the tank.

I'm not sure if there is any interference with the fairing as my bike is basically an XJ6N conversion. (Full fairing is gone now.)

 

[Chucker]

I adjusted the bars and levers until they felt good without hitting the fairing. It really is about adjusting both and figuring out what feels best to you. I remember at the time that I compromised a little, but I can't even remember the specifics now. It feels right, even at the track, so part of it is probably just getting used to it being different.

 

[pavmentsurfer]

Just finished up my own install of a set of aftermarket FZ1 spec bars. Im using the stock mounts in the forward position. I didnt use the holes in the bars ... I've got the controls set where I want them. I did run into the problem of the brake and clutch levers hitting the fairing just behind the windshield area but rotating the bars and the levers up slightly solved it. Id like the levers just a hair lower but they aren't bad at all and the trade off is well worth it. Theres about 1/8 inch clearance between the switch cluster and throttle block and the tank with the bars at full lock either way. its tight but I never turn that far unless I'm in the garage so its not an issue.

 

[Chucker]

Looks good! I too had to adjust my levers to angles that weren't exactly optimal, but I got used to them so quickly, I don't even notice anymore.

Hit some twisties and I'm sure you'll notice a huge difference in how easy it is to get your body in a better position.

 

[mokishea]

I've been looking at doing the FZ1 bar swap as well, but it seems like most of the people that have done this are 6' or so. I'm only 5'3" so jw if there are any other short people that have done this swap and what they think of it. I don't want a super aggressive sporty position because I like sitting upright most of the time and not having my weight on my arms.