Rough shifting
- Thread starter 2wheelie
- Start date
I thought may be oil and changed it recently (mobil1 15-50) but didn't help. Bike has 25k mi.How long since you changed oil? Shifting gets rough when your oil starts to break down. How many miles on bike?
Yeah, i believe that covers the shift rod as well.The sprocket cover?
Hi,
New to this forum and I had my FZ6R for only 2 days. I seem to have the same problem but the oil is brand new as well as the bike. The dealership told my they're using special "breaking in period" oil that I should have changed after 1000km.
I also see the neuteal indicator lighting up whem shifting from 1st to 2nd.
OP, do you see the same thing? I don't remember seeing this on my GS500F.
Cheers.
-int15
New to this forum and I had my FZ6R for only 2 days. I seem to have the same problem but the oil is brand new as well as the bike. The dealership told my they're using special "breaking in period" oil that I should have changed after 1000km.
I also see the neuteal indicator lighting up whem shifting from 1st to 2nd.
OP, do you see the same thing? I don't remember seeing this on my GS500F.
Cheers.
-int15
Is the 15W50 for motorcycles? If not then that's your problem. You need a motorcycle specific oil for bikes. They provide the wet clutch protection that a normal oil does not.I thought may be oil and changed it recently (mobil1 15-50) but didn't help. Bike has 25k mi.
arkkornkid
New Member
You may need to play around with the actual length of the shift rod. I made adjustments over a few rides before I found an ideal length and it helped out quite a bit.
The harshness between 1st and 2nd is pretty typical of most bikes, just got to find out what works.
The harshness between 1st and 2nd is pretty typical of most bikes, just got to find out what works.
No you don't. Just about any oil is adequate. There is one specific type not to use but I forget what.Is the 15W50 for motorcycles? If not then that's your problem. You need a motorcycle specific oil for bikes. They provide the wet clutch protection that a normal oil does not.
You are getting ripped off at motorcycle shops if that is what you buy.
It still needs to meet the motorcycle oil rating specifications and no energy conserving friction modifiers.No you don't. Just about any oil is adequate. There is one specific type not to use but I forget what.
You are getting ripped off at motorcycle shops if that is what you buy.
UselessPickles
New Member
You don't necessarily need oil that is marketed as motorcycle-specific oil. If you find on the label that it is JASO-MA certified, then it means it is safe for use with motorcycles with wet clutches and that use the engine oil in the transmission. For example, I use Rotella T6 full synthetic for only about $22/gallon. It's actually primarily marketed as a diesel engine oil, and not at all as a motorcycle oil, but it is JASO-MA certified.You need a motorcycle specific oil for bikes.
oilspecifications.org - Lubricant standards and specifications
If you had the wrong kind of oil, the problem would more likely be a slipping clutch, not clunky/grinding shifts.JASO MA
Japanese standard for special oil which can be used in 4-stroke motorcycle engine with one oilsystem for engine, gearbox and wet clutchsystem. Fluid is non-friction modified.
Chevyfazer
New Member
Ya it's the friction modifiers that they put in the oil that is no good for the wet clutch, but like useless said as long as in has that jaso rating it's good. For example regular Royal purple is a kick arse oil but it has tons of friction modifiers in it, switch over to RP max cycle and your good.
But to what int15 was asking about shifting, your bike is 2 days old, things are going to be a little tight, give it some time and miles to break in. If it still is hard to shift 1000miles down the rode then ask again.
But to what int15 was asking about shifting, your bike is 2 days old, things are going to be a little tight, give it some time and miles to break in. If it still is hard to shift 1000miles down the rode then ask again.