when you get it back open use some silicone adhesive...its what i used and mine doesn't move...check my diy
Retro Fit kit
- Thread starter cavcuz05
- Start date
Thought I'd explain the how the retrofit works for those who may not quite understand it. Not trying to sound like a know it all, just hope I can clarify and maybe help someone.
So: The projector is just a big lens that focuses light. It is made to work with HID light which has diff output than regular incandescent bulbs which is why there is scatter and glare in regular housings. There is no wiring in a projector except for bixenon projectors which have solenoids that move the cutoff shield to allow more light output when high beams are activated.
The HID kit works like this: There is a bulb, ballast, and relay. The relay plugs into the existing headlight wiring. The existing headlight wiring sends signals to the relay which then "relays" the signal to the ballast or bixenon solenoid for high beam. The ballast works almost like a transformer would by multiplying the current from the relay enough to fire the bulb. The bulb is actually made of different salts which when ignited, produce a xenon gas which glows a certain color depending on the mixture of salts. When the ballast first turns on, it sends a very large jolt of electricity to ignite the salts then keeps the current at a steady level. That initial jolt is necessary for the first startup (and is why you see the light pop on then fade out then back in as it warms) but can be harmful to the light once the salts have been ignited. I say that bc it is not a good idea to cut the light on and off bc of that jolt. Your bulb won't last as long.
Also you only need one ballast per bulb so on our bikes, only one ballast is needed. Thats a pretty quick run down but hope that helps!
So: The projector is just a big lens that focuses light. It is made to work with HID light which has diff output than regular incandescent bulbs which is why there is scatter and glare in regular housings. There is no wiring in a projector except for bixenon projectors which have solenoids that move the cutoff shield to allow more light output when high beams are activated.
The HID kit works like this: There is a bulb, ballast, and relay. The relay plugs into the existing headlight wiring. The existing headlight wiring sends signals to the relay which then "relays" the signal to the ballast or bixenon solenoid for high beam. The ballast works almost like a transformer would by multiplying the current from the relay enough to fire the bulb. The bulb is actually made of different salts which when ignited, produce a xenon gas which glows a certain color depending on the mixture of salts. When the ballast first turns on, it sends a very large jolt of electricity to ignite the salts then keeps the current at a steady level. That initial jolt is necessary for the first startup (and is why you see the light pop on then fade out then back in as it warms) but can be harmful to the light once the salts have been ignited. I say that bc it is not a good idea to cut the light on and off bc of that jolt. Your bulb won't last as long.
Also you only need one ballast per bulb so on our bikes, only one ballast is needed. Thats a pretty quick run down but hope that helps!
Awesome! Have you ridden at speed yet? No movement? I'll def give that a shot then.
yes i have..nope no movement at least none that i can see...really put it on there to ensure that its solid
its a test harness to test the projector...not that you need to know but just thought i clarify for the others
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Got some more pics:
High Beam:
Low Beam:
I got the angel eye, but I didn't like how it looked on the outside of the shroud, since I painted it blue. I put it behind the shroud, and that looks cool too.
High Beam:
Low Beam:
I got the angel eye, but I didn't like how it looked on the outside of the shroud, since I painted it blue. I put it behind the shroud, and that looks cool too.
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lol i agree i had to shrink my comp screen
I fixed the pics guys, sorry, I uploaded from a different computer, and resizing wasn't turned on...
No, my light isn't slanted. I didn't use the alignment on the ring, I actually cut the tab out of the inside and aligned it by eye, then before sealing it up, put on the bike and tested to make sure it is straight...at least as straight as I can see by eye.
Yeah, using the ring is a good idea, but the notch is not right on the threads for it to be perfectly aligned. What I did was cut out the tab on the inside of the ring, and then align the projector by eye.
well i might do that when i have the time right now its fine and i can see perfectly at night...u think i can still do that with out ripping the headlight apart?
Yes, the only problem is that you put silicone inside the headlight housing to hold the projector right? If you did, you may not be able to turn the projector well, since it will be stuck. But if it wasn't for that, I would say yes.
that is sick!!!! damn i need to do that to my bike. good work:thumbup:Got some more pics:
High Beam:
Low Beam:
I got the angel eye, but I didn't like how it looked on the outside of the shroud, since I painted it blue. I put it behind the shroud, and that looks cool too.
First, FZR Black, that is tight and you got me thinking about body matching my shroud (although that paint is expensive lol. Did you shed the chrome off first?
Cavcuz, where all did you put silicone? Yesterday, I took mine back apart and tightened it down as much as I could and applied silicone around the threads (also opened it up and put a little on the supplied silcone spacer). Tonight I went for a ride right around dark and I can see the cutoff line jumping up and down as I ride. Is no one else seeing this? Idk if the projector itself is moving up and down or is it the headlight assembly? It really sucks tho and I just want to get this right and move on lol. Any suggestions?
Cavcuz, where all did you put silicone? Yesterday, I took mine back apart and tightened it down as much as I could and applied silicone around the threads (also opened it up and put a little on the supplied silcone spacer). Tonight I went for a ride right around dark and I can see the cutoff line jumping up and down as I ride. Is no one else seeing this? Idk if the projector itself is moving up and down or is it the headlight assembly? It really sucks tho and I just want to get this right and move on lol. Any suggestions?
I did not sand the shroud first, the paint will stick with out having to sand. What you are seeing is your line moving up and down with the front suspension. Mine bounces a little, but if you follow a car and watch your reflection, you won't see out bouncing like that...
I think it's a little more than that bc when i ease the clutch out and the motor engages, I see the line start vibrating with it. It becomes worse at speed. I'm used to the line moving up and down say over a bump but mine is projecting the engine vibrations.