Oil Filter?

[cbzdel]

Owners manual says every other oil change to do the filter.. Seems odd, but never owned a bike with a filter (all my previous bikes have been filter-less!) Opinions?? Usually I go by what they say but for like $15 extra I can have a clean K&N on there...

Waste of money or good idea??

 

[JSP]

I will be changing mine every oil change. My last bike also was filter-less. Using the Purolator Pure One filter, is only an extra $6 so its really not much money at all for a little extra insurance. Waste of money? Could be, but its not very much at all when you take into account the investment of the bike.

I am using Rotella T synthetic and will do oil changes every 4K with oil filter.

My last bike (08 Rebel) called for 4k oil changes too. But with no oil filter, that is absurd. We changed oil every 1,500 - 2,000 miles on that.

How much do you ride in a year? I put on about 10-11k a year. I put 11k my first year of owning the Rebel (was my last year with it also, since I got the FZ6R) So thats what? 3 oil changes a year? Thats only an extra (if you are using the Purolator) $6 a year doing the oil filter each time. If I did 4 oil changes that means 2 extra filters = $12 extra for the year... Very worth it to me!

 

[FZ1inNH]

I change them with every oil change. Cheap enough protection.

I hope the thread with all the compatible filters made it over here in the transition.

 

[FZ1inNH]

Nope, thus here is Steve's (wrightme43) list!

Oil filters that will fit
These Oil Filters
have 20 x 1.5mm threads,
14 psi by-pass valve,
anti-drain back valve,
2.3" O.D. gasket
2.5" to 3.5" long.
If you have the room, I recommend the longer filters.


Motorcycle Filters.
None are recommended.

AC Delco PF2135
AMSOil SMF103
Carquest 85358
FRAM PH6017A
Honda 15410-MCJ-000
K&N KN-204, about $13. Metric nut on end for easy removal.
NAPA Gold 1358
Purolator ML16817. Imported, not made by Purolator.
STP SMO 17
WIX 51358
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Recommended filters.
All have superior
filtering.

About 2.5 inches long.
Purolator Pure One PL14612, about $6.
Mobil M1-108, about $12.
Made by Champion.
Bosch 3300, about $6.
Made by Champion.

About 3.25 inches long.
Purolator Pure One PL14610, about $6.
Mobil 1 M1-110, about $10.
Made by Champion.
Bosch 3323, about $6.
Made By Champion.
WalMart SuperTech ST7317,
about $2. Made by Champion.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------




Buy these filters Automobile Filters,
about 2.5 inches long.
AC Delco PF1237
Baldwin B1400
Firestone TF2876
Hastings LF113
NAPA Gold 1365
Purolator L14612
STP S-02876
WalMart SuperTech ST6607
WIX 51365
Automobile Filters,
about 3.25 inches long.
AC Delco PF-2057
Auto Pro 2356
Autopride CF240AP
Baldwin B1402
Carquest 85356
Carquest Red B4620
Casite CF240
Castrol 7317
Champion Labs Ph2867
Defense Filters Dl7317
Deutsch D-370
Federated Filters LF240F
Automobile Filters,
about 3.25 inches long.
Fram Double Guard DG7317
Fram PH7317
Fram Tough Guard TG7317
Fram Xtra Guard XG7317
Group 7 V4610
Group 7 V4620
Hastings LF240
Mighty M4612
Motorcraft Long Life FL-821
Napa FIL1356
Napa Gold 1356
Parts Plus PH2867
Pennzoil PZ-109
Penske 7317
Powerflo SL14610
Powerflo SL14620
Pro Gauge PGO-4620
Pro Tec 164
Promotive PH4610
Pronto PO3593A
Purolator L14610
Service Champ OF-4622
Shell SH48
Shell SH529
Stp S-02867.
Valvoline VO50
Warner PH2867
Wix 51356

This info is available at Motorcycle Oil Filter Cross Reference

I will link to thier oil filter testing as well.

I highly highly recomend the purolator pure one filter PL14610 for less than 6 dollars it is one of the finest available.

 

[OTTF]

I use the K&N also and for $15 dollars I myself do it every time. Since there will still be contaminants contained in the filter it gives me peace of mind switching it out at the same time.

 

[cbzdel]

K&N is worth the extra $10 just for the welded on nut IMO

 

[calltrex]

that would be dumb not to change the filter.. why bother changing the oil then..

 

[KelownaKeith]

that would be dumb not to change the filter.. why bother changing the oil then..

I agree with your view, however Yamaha says to change the oil filter with every other oil change and since they built the bike, logic suggests that it's not necessary to change the filter at every oil change.

I think it all depends on how long you plan on owning your bike. If you plan to have it long term than I would change the filter every time. If not, why not save some money and do as the owner's manual suggests?

 

[cbzdel]

that would be dumb not to change the filter.. why bother changing the oil then..

the point of the filter is to trap metal shavings in the oil, i cant see how not changing the filter wont effect it to much. Does the oil know if its a clean filter or a dirty filter?? If its just metal shaving trapped in the filter i dont see it making the new oil dirty..

I am not trying to argue against doing it every time, just trying to understand why Yamaha thought this way

 

[JonKerr]

Honestly it makes perfect since to only change it every other oil change. The reason for that is filters actually become more efficient when they get dirty. (I sell a lot of filtration in my business. Not automotive filters but the principals are exactly the same.) When a filter is brand new, there's nothing but filter media that's trapping contaminants. However, as the filter begins to fill up, not only do you have filter media, but other contaminants that have already been captured catching even finer contaminants than the filter alone can catch. Picture a sponge or some steel wool. That's what the surface of a filter looks like under a microscope. As that matrix of fibers fills with more contaminates, there are fewer places for the oil to pass through and smaller holes as many of them have been filled.

Most filters are rated in "nominal" micron ratings. In other words, if a filter is rated to 10 micron nominal, it'll capture anywhere from 75-95% (Usually in the high 80's to low 90's) of all particles 10 micron and larger. That's it's efficiency rating. As a filter fills up, it's efficiency rating can go from 80% to 95%+ easily, making a better filter. Anything 99.9% or higher is considered "absolute" rated and gets extremely expensive and they don't usually last long as they're filling up so much faster. They're actually used a lot as a "polishing" filter to capture that extra 5% or so left by the nominal filter. The thing you have to be careful of is blow through. If the filter gets so contaminated that the differential pressure (difference between the pressure of the inlet vs. the outlet) gets too high, it can start to distort the actual shape of the filter and the matrix of fibers and blow that captured material through the filter and out of the filter, straight into your oil stream. Before you get there you need to change out the filter for a new one. In all honesty, I think an automotive filter would probably go 3 or possibly even 4 oil changes before that starts happening. Especially once the engine is fully broken in and you're getting minimal metal shavings in the oil. Not that I'm saying to let your filter go 4 oil changes. Better to be safe than have blow through getting into your engine. But your filters that are on their second oil change will work better than your brand new filter you just put in.

 

[cbzdel]

Honestly it makes perfect since to only change it every other oil change. The reason for that is filters actually become more efficient when they get dirty. (I sell a lot of filtration in my business. Not automotive filters but the principals are exactly the same.) When a filter is brand new, there's nothing but filter media that's trapping contaminants. However, as the filter begins to fill up, not only do you have filter media, but other contaminants that have already been captured catching even finer contaminants than the filter alone can catch. Picture a sponge or some steel wool. That's what the surface of a filter looks like under a microscope. As that matrix of fibers fills with more contaminates, there are fewer places for the oil to pass through and smaller holes as many of them have been filled.

Most filters are rated in "nominal" micron ratings. In other words, if a filter is rated to 10 micron nominal, it'll capture anywhere from 75-95% (Usually in the high 80's to low 90's) of all particles 10 micron and larger. That's it's efficiency rating. As a filter fills up, it's efficiency rating can go from 80% to 95%+ easily, making a better filter. Anything 99.9% or higher is considered "absolute" rated and gets extremely expensive and they don't usually last long as they're filling up so much faster. They're actually used a lot as a "polishing" filter to capture that extra 5% or so left by the nominal filter. The thing you have to be careful of is blow through. If the filter gets so contaminated that the differential pressure (difference between the pressure of the inlet vs. the outlet) gets too high, it can start to distort the actual shape of the filter and the matrix of fibers and blow that captured material through the filter and out of the filter, straight into your oil stream. Before you get there you need to change out the filter for a new one. In all honesty, I think an automotive filter would probably go 3 or possibly even 4 oil changes before that starts happening. Especially once the engine is fully broken in and you're getting minimal metal shavings in the oil. Not that I'm saying to let your filter go 4 oil changes. Better to be safe than have blow through getting into your engine. But your filters that are on their second oil change will work better than your brand new filter you just put in.

Good to hear from an expert! Thanks for the pointers, guess the every other oil change makes since now :thumbup:

 

[JSP]

Good to hear from an expert! Thanks for the pointers, guess the every other oil change makes since now :thumbup:

As long as it doesn't get too dirty for some reason and the bypass valve kicks. Then you are essentially running with no oil filter correct?

 

[Verranth]

As long as it doesn't get too dirty for some reason and the bypass valve kicks. Then you are essentially running with no oil filter correct?

If the bypass engages, you are correct. Bypass = no filtering

 

[dragonguy_86]

so even tho the fram filter is like an outy and the yamaha one is like an inny by the threads i can use the fram one?

 

[calltrex]

so even tho the fram filter is like an outy and the yamaha one is like an inny by the threads i can use the fram one?

Frams are garbage. would never use one on anything

just Kleenex stuffed in there..

 

[PuRpl3_Dr4nK]

Frams are garbage. would never use one on anything

just Kleenex stuffed in there..

LOL I don't know much about oil filters but that was pretty funny

 

[Heineken]

I personally use K&N oil filter. I like the 17mm nut end, easy off - easy on .

Tnx cbzdel for the recommendation ...

 

[dart1963]

save your money, buy the Purolator Pure One PL14612, about $6, and mostly available from any local automotive parts store. If a dealer tries to give you the line about " you might void your warranty", just mention the "the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act" that says if they want to pay for it, provide ALL parts/labor, then they can force you to use their parts or void it.

Just remember, DON'T tighten any more than "hand tight", oil the gasket, pre-fill with a couple of cap fulls of oil (thought I don't know it's needed, I still do it). Next oil change if you need more than some "elbow grease" to remove it, you overtightened it the last time.

 

[Heineken]

save your money, buy the Purolator Pure One PL14612, about $6, and mostly available from any local automotive parts store. If a dealer tries to give you the line about " you might void your warranty", just mention the "the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act" that says if they want to pay for it, provide ALL parts/labor, then they can force you to use their parts or void it.

Just remember, DON'T tighten any more than "hand tight", oil the gasket, pre-fill with a couple of cap fulls of oil (thought I don't know it's needed, I still do it). Next oil change if you need more than some "elbow grease" to remove it, you overtightened it the last time.

Well I'm pretty sure that won't be a problem, since I torque it according to the service manual. I'm not sure about the pre-fill, in this case anyway, the filter mounts side way so all the oil will just drain to the floor before you can thread it enough that the gasket seals the deal. Anyway that's just from my short experience with this bike so far.

 

[dart1963]

"pre-fill with a couple of cap fulls", it's just enough to "coat" the media, not much more. As I said, I'm not sure it's necessary, I just do it out of habit.