Odometer is off too!!!

[Spunky99]

Good feedback Spunky. I guess my memory wasn't perfect.

I was going to take the plastic piece off if I wasn't able to get the chain on. Removing it is a better solution.

I did take the shift arm off the spline though. Your suggestion is better in that you don't have to mark the orientation.

It's easy to correct someone else's work...it is hard to come up with the first draft. You did really a good job and I just thought a couple things might be easier to do.
I love the new gearing BTW. Excellent suggestion. On the freeway, it is like having a 7th gear. I find I use 3rd, 4th and 5th a lot more now too. I used to just accelerate to 3rd and then go to 5th to cruise but now I cruise in the gear for the correct speed at the correct RPM.

 

[Roaddawg]

I did the +1 sprocket tonight. Here are a few corrections to an otherwise great writeup, PIZZ...



Correction......remove the plastic part and slide the sprocket, chain and the plastic piece together onto the spline. It's easy, just go slow and you damage nothing. No rubber mallet needed!

The new sprocket has a raised lip on one side. Install with the lip towards the engine to properly align the sprocket and chain.


Be careful and use some towels as I ended up scratching the inside of the rim. A little touch up paint will fix it but could have been avoided.



Correction......disconnect the shift linkage by loosening the bolt under the rubber dust boot. Leave the spline alone. Don't lose the washer.
If you use the teflon lube, spray some onto the shift linkage under the rubber before reassembly.

Make sure you tap a new detent in the bolt that holds on the sprocket. That way it can't spin off or on.

I did this alone and if you leave the engine in gear, sit on the bike and hold down on the brake, you can do it but it is a slow and painful process. I got cramps from bending over and my glasses wanted to fall off constantly.

The original sprocket has plastic on both sides and the new one is bare. Just ignore the difference and put on the new one.

Spunky, I'd like to ask you if you could also post this information in Pizz's original "+1" thread (http://www.600cc.org/forum/f89/1-up-front-great-19157/), so when people (hopefully) use the search feature to look up sprocket changes, they can find all this very helpful info you guys have posted here in a better thread location. Thanks.....and I just ordered mine!

 

[Pizz]

Glad you like it. Its nice knowing what speed you are really doing.

 

[Stephenfz6r]

I read somewhere that someone changed their rear sprocket to reduce RPM and he verified with a GPS that his speed was reading correctly after the sprocket change. So obviously this is a common problem. I felt that my speedometer was over reading the first time I drove on the highway. I was able to confirm with my GPS that I am off by 10%. I might approach the dealer to see if there is a simple remedy for this(software/PROM).

 

[99vengeur]

I read somewhere that someone changed their rear sprocket to reduce RPM and he verified with a GPS that his speed was reading correctly after the sprocket change. So obviously this is a common problem. I felt that my speedometer was over reading the first time I drove on the highway. I was able to confirm with my GPS that I am off by 10%. I might approach the dealer to see if there is a simple remedy for this(software/PROM).

You could get the speed healer....

Cal-Sportbike >>> Healtech Electronics, Pipercross Air Filters, Galfer Brakes, Speedo Healer, Gear Indicator Pro, GIPro, X-TRE, Elka Suspension.

SHV4+SH-Y01

 

[Roaddawg]

I read somewhere that someone changed their rear sprocket to reduce RPM and he verified with a GPS that his speed was reading correctly after the sprocket change. So obviously this is a common problem. I felt that my speedometer was over reading the first time I drove on the highway. I was able to confirm with my GPS that I am off by 10%. I might approach the dealer to see if there is a simple remedy for this(software/PROM).

Did you not read this whole thread above before your post? That's probably where you read it, but its the front sprocket (+1) that will give you reduced RPM's and a more accurate speedo. You'd have to go negative on the rear quite a bit to get the same from +1 on the front. When your talking about the rear, most go -1 front /+2 rear, but you're going to raise the RPM's AND put your speedometer off even more so.

 

[Uno979]

Here is my thought... to compensate us for the loss on depreciation and warranty YAMAHA should buy us all one of these speedohealers... this is my argument!! I'm sticking to it!! :spank::banghead::rant::stupidpc:

 

[overkill1106]

Help!!!!!

Hello,

Need to know how to post blogs and if R1 flush mount led turn signals will fit my yellow FZ6R.

 

[Roaddawg]

Hello,

Need to know how to post blogs and if R1 flush mount led turn signals will fit my yellow FZ6R.

So you posted this question here on this thread?!?!?! :don'tknow:

The flush mounts only fit the sexy black models. Since the yellow model was only made in 2009 no aftermarket parts fit on it...:justkidding:

Now to give you some help....see the 'Search' tab on the upper right corner of the forum home page? Click on that, put in a topic your interested in, and then read the threads, commenting in the threads with subject relevant posts. If you can't find your answers in prior threads (after reading them) then feel free to start a new thread. Its that easy.

BTW, :welcome:

 

[fz6rwolf]

I'm personally not happy that my speedo and ODO are off on the morotcycle.
If I want to break the law, I should be able to break it with full knowledge how fast I am really going...that said...it it meaningless in the context of legal standing.

The real point here is that we are getting ripped off on our warranty by 8.5%.
We are also getting an 8.5% loss in resale value due to excess mileage that was never driven. A class action lawsuit or a threat of such may benefit us as a group. Here is a precident that covers this exact issue.
http://www.odosettlementinfo.com/Vaughn Final FAQs.pdf

I am going to draft a letter to Yamaha and demand to be compensated or I'll file the lawsuit. I can copy the Honda lawsuit and change the names and dates to match our issue. Perhaps if enough of us want to push this, we can file a class action lawsuit. I can file a personal lawsuit and change it to class action if needed.

Anyone here feel the same as me?
I don't like to get ripped off........

Every bike I've owned the speedo has been off. You'll find a thread on every MC forum. In most cases the speedo actually reads higher so you think you're going faster than you are. There's been conjecture that MC companies do this on purpose so not to have people say they weren't speeding and got ticket, if it reads high then no excuse is there? I always ride knowing my speedo shows I'm going few MPH lower than showing and really no big deal. To each thier own, some think everything in the world should be perfect and the world is far from perfect and ya have to adapt and overcome

 

[Marthy]

Thanks for the tips! I just bought a Speedo DRD at 12oClocklabs.com for about $85.00 with shipping and it work fine. It's easy to plug in at I just follow the instructions and Bang! 8% is about right. I double check with my cell/GPS and it's within 1 mph. I will be installing my 38T rear sprocket this week and re-calibrate my widget.

 

[toddjcruz]

+1 up front and -3 at the back. (17/43). Just finished 800 miles and get 59 average mpg (speedo-healer corrected)!

Was wonderful as 60 mph was only 4800 on the tach. I spent the entire trip under 6000 rpm rathre than 8000 that I normaly would have!

Sure, a bit slower out of the hole, but that makes up for abone 1% of my riding. I spend a lot of time on the back roads at 60-70 mph for long distances. Buzzing 8-9k on the engine just wasnt a good thing for an hour!

Of course, I do need to drop it down a few more extra gears for passing, but that's not a problem.