Not noticeable at all.
Odometer is off too!!!
- Thread starter locwan
- Start date
You want to buy it for me?
Uh no.
Not espeically, no. I thought it was common knowledge that motorcycles are off in terms of speedos/odomoters... It's mostly to save us from our selves. It's not like motorcycle riders are known for driving too fast... oh wait.
I don't think it's anything sinister, either. Like Mr Yamaha is sitting up in some high backed chair, laughing at you saying, "The FOOLS! I have tricked them into 8.5% less warranty time than they are due! Mwa hahahahaha! Now, where's the kitty that I wanted to kick through an electric fan?"
I agree that they should give you the option of having things accurate, but it's nothing i'm willing to get a lawyer over. Maybe if you cause a ruckus at the dealer they'll give you a speedohealer for free?
Not espeically, no. I thought it was common knowledge that motorcycles are off in terms of speedos/odomoters... It's mostly to save us from our selves. It's not like motorcycle riders are known for driving too fast... oh wait.
I don't think it's anything sinister, either. Like Mr Yamaha is sitting up in some high backed chair, laughing at you saying, "The FOOLS! I have tricked them into 8.5% less warranty time than they are due! Mwa hahahahaha! Now, where's the kitty that I wanted to kick through an electric fan?"
I agree that they should give you the option of having things accurate, but it's nothing i'm willing to get a lawyer over. Maybe if you cause a ruckus at the dealer they'll give you a speedohealer for free?
Funkmaxtor
New Member
FYI our bikes are not the MOST inaccurate. I was beside a ZX-10R on Monday. My speedo was reading 71 and his was 75. Just food for thought.
Thanks ry-mac75....I figured you weren't gonna buy me one...
Good points too.
I went the +1 front sprocket option because I'm cheap, I'm cheap and I like the freeway drop in RPM.
The way I broke in my bike, it has tons of bottom end and mid range. After 4000 RPM it rips pretty well. I saw where some really buzz the $hit outta the bike to have lots of pickup and I wonder if they got the rings seated properly?
I haven't hired a lawyer in 8 years now and have been successful on my own on 5 court cases so my only expense would be the filing fee and to serve the initial complaint. That being said I also have looked into the issue from an industry standard and although anything more than 5% off seems to be more than the Federal guideline, Honda gets away with 10%. So I think any legal action or complaints are going to be dismissed or ignored. Simply stated, it is a waste of my time and energy to bitch about it anymore.
About $38.00 delivered the sprocket will do the trick cheaper than the speedo-healer. My last sport bike had a +1 front sprocket and except for losing the hole shot, it did not impair the acceleration and even changed the point where the shift to 3rd gear gave me an advantage that I was able to use to my advantage in a drag race to catch up and slingshot me past the other bike as they shifted to third.
Good points too.
I went the +1 front sprocket option because I'm cheap, I'm cheap and I like the freeway drop in RPM.
The way I broke in my bike, it has tons of bottom end and mid range. After 4000 RPM it rips pretty well. I saw where some really buzz the $hit outta the bike to have lots of pickup and I wonder if they got the rings seated properly?
I haven't hired a lawyer in 8 years now and have been successful on my own on 5 court cases so my only expense would be the filing fee and to serve the initial complaint. That being said I also have looked into the issue from an industry standard and although anything more than 5% off seems to be more than the Federal guideline, Honda gets away with 10%. So I think any legal action or complaints are going to be dismissed or ignored. Simply stated, it is a waste of my time and energy to bitch about it anymore.
About $38.00 delivered the sprocket will do the trick cheaper than the speedo-healer. My last sport bike had a +1 front sprocket and except for losing the hole shot, it did not impair the acceleration and even changed the point where the shift to 3rd gear gave me an advantage that I was able to use to my advantage in a drag race to catch up and slingshot me past the other bike as they shifted to third.
Stock chain is good. Took me about an hour from the time I walked into the garage to when I went back in the house. I am fairly anal about mods, so I plan them out, go through them in my head, then actually do them.
You need to disconnect the shift lever rod and move it out of the way to create clearance for the new sprocket to go on the spline shaft.
Oh, and this is by far the dirtiest mod you will ever do. If you don't want "mechanic hands" for 2 weeks, wear a pair of protective gloves.
If I were to do it again, it's take about 20 minutes.
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arkkornkid
New Member
I'm imagining it's as easy as sliding off the sprocket with the chain, replacing the sprocket and sliding it back onto the drive shaft: Meaning you don't have to really "remove" the chain?
If it's that simple then I'll take care of this in the near future.
If it's that simple then I'll take care of this in the near future.
Thanks. I'm the same when it comes to doing a mod for the first time. I'll spent countless hours researching and planning it, even if its a 20 min job....just don't want to screw it up.
I would think you would need to loosen the rear axle and the chain tensioners to accommodate the new sprocket and the increased chain tension vs the smaller sprocket. So a rear swingarm stand is in order so that can be done without the weight of the bike sitting on the rear wheel. Not sure if you can slide the gear on over the shaft with the chain on it tho. Might have to pull the chain off the rear sprocket and once the gear is in and tightened you can put the chain on the front and then the rear sprocket. Put the front sprocket cover and shift linkage back on and adjust up the rear for proper chain tension and alignment. Pretty standard.
A couple of other pointers:
-You need a rear stand
-You will need to loosen the rear axle and adjust it all the way forward.
-You will need someone else to press hard on the rear brake while you are loosening the sprocket nut and when you tighten the nut onto the new sprocket.
-The manual calls for a new nut, but I reused the existing sprocket nut
-You need a rear stand
-You will need to loosen the rear axle and adjust it all the way forward.
-You will need someone else to press hard on the rear brake while you are loosening the sprocket nut and when you tighten the nut onto the new sprocket.
-The manual calls for a new nut, but I reused the existing sprocket nut
This weekend if the gear comes in time...
There is a hard plastic chain guard that sits close to, and above, the front sprocket. It takes some force to deform the guard when you push the +1 sprocket and chain onto the spline. Once it's in place there is no interference.
I can see how others may have removed it to make the install easier. I wanted to keep it.
I should have taken pictures. I usually do. This is what I did:
0) Before starting determine whether you are going to use a new sprocket nut or reuse the existing. I reused the existing. A new one will require a trip to your dealer.
-There are 2 steps that require a second person.
-No special tools where used. Ratchet and sockets, allen keys, torque wrench, screwdriver, hammer, wrenches.
1) Place bike on a rear stand and remove the main chain guard.
2) Remove the drive sprocket cover (item 4 from the picture)
3) Tricky part - The drive sprocket nut (item 5) has a small lip that has about 1/8" deformed into the channel that is cut in the spline shaft. You need to use a small flat head screwdriver (or similar) to start to straighten it out. This will allow you to loosen it with less force. I didn't try to remove the nut before doing this, so I don't know if you can just take it off. You will need someone to press down firmly on the rear brake lever while you remove the nut. Remove the nut (5).
4) Loosen the rear axle nut.
5) Loosen both locknuts on each side of the swing arm and back them off.
6) Push the rear wheel assembly forward as far as it will go. This will create slack in the chain to remove it from the rear sprocket.
7) Remove chain from rear sprocket. Let it hang there.
8) Remove the Shift arm from its spline (3) and rotate the shift rod back towards the rear of the bike (need to do this to get clearance). Make sure you mark the location of the shift arem on the spline so you can put it back in the same place.
9) Remove the washer (6) and sprocket (7), with the chain.
10) Take the chain off the sprocket and put it on the new sprocket, before you attempt to put the new sprocket on the spline shaft. Make sure you orient it correctly. With the Driven sprocket, only one side has chamfers to allow easy alignment with the spline shaft.
11) Tricky part - You will need to work with the chain position to allow the new sprocket to slide onto the spline shaft.
12) Tricky part - the chain placed on the larger diameter sprocket (+1 tooth) creates a slight interference with the plastic chain guard that sits a couple inches above the spline shaft. You will need to force the chain under the chain guard. I tapped mine on with a rubber mallet.
13) Place the chain over the rear sprocket and rotate it onto the rear sprocket. Test the installation by hand to ensure it rotates freely.
14) Reassemble all the bits.
15) Set your chain tension.
16) Take a slow test ride to check out your install. Stop and check the chain for alignment and tension, to make sure nothing moved.
I did the +1 sprocket tonight. Here are a few corrections to an otherwise great writeup, PIZZ...
The new sprocket has a raised lip on one side. Install with the lip towards the engine to properly align the sprocket and chain.
If you use the teflon lube, spray some onto the shift linkage under the rubber before reassembly.
Make sure you tap a new detent in the bolt that holds on the sprocket. That way it can't spin off or on.
I did this alone and if you leave the engine in gear, sit on the bike and hold down on the brake, you can do it but it is a slow and painful process. I got cramps from bending over and my glasses wanted to fall off constantly.
The original sprocket has plastic on both sides and the new one is bare. Just ignore the difference and put on the new one.
Correction......remove the plastic part and slide the sprocket, chain and the plastic piece together onto the spline. It's easy, just go slow and you damage nothing. No rubber mallet needed!
The new sprocket has a raised lip on one side. Install with the lip towards the engine to properly align the sprocket and chain.
Be careful and use some towels as I ended up scratching the inside of the rim. A little touch up paint will fix it but could have been avoided.
Correction......disconnect the shift linkage by loosening the bolt under the rubber dust boot. Leave the spline alone. Don't lose the washer.
If you use the teflon lube, spray some onto the shift linkage under the rubber before reassembly.
Make sure you tap a new detent in the bolt that holds on the sprocket. That way it can't spin off or on.
I did this alone and if you leave the engine in gear, sit on the bike and hold down on the brake, you can do it but it is a slow and painful process. I got cramps from bending over and my glasses wanted to fall off constantly.
The original sprocket has plastic on both sides and the new one is bare. Just ignore the difference and put on the new one.
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Good feedback Spunky. I guess my memory wasn't perfect.
I was going to take the plastic piece off if I wasn't able to get the chain on. Removing it is a better solution.
I did take the shift arm off the spline though. Your suggestion is better in that you don't have to mark the orientation.
I was going to take the plastic piece off if I wasn't able to get the chain on. Removing it is a better solution.
I did take the shift arm off the spline though. Your suggestion is better in that you don't have to mark the orientation.