Talk nice to your bike and it will tell you. LOL! There is a way to bring them up, but I don't know it. I can look in my service manual.
Okay, can't find it. I know I read somewhere that you can get the bike into a diag mode. Just can't seem to find it at the moment.
Found it
DIAGNOSTIC MODE
Setting the diagnostic mode
1. Turn the main switch to “OFF” and set the engine stop switch to “ ”.
2. Disconnect the wire harness coupler from the fuel pump.
3. Simultaneously press and hold the “SELECT” and “RESET” buttons, turn the main switch to “ON”,
and continue to press the buttons for 8 seconds or more.
TIP
All displays on the meter disappear except the clock and tripmeter displays.
“dI” appears on the clock LCD.
4. Simultaneously press the “SELECT” and “RESET” buttons for 2 seconds or more to execute the selection.
5. Set the engine stop switch to “OFF”.
6. Select the diagnostic code number that applies to the item that was verified with the fault code number
by pressing the “SELECT” and “RESET” buttons.
TIP
The diagnostic code number appears on the clock LCD (01
–
70).
To decrease the selected diagnostic code number, press the “RESET” button. Press the “RESET”
button to automatically decrease the diagnostic code numbers.
To increase the selected diagnostic code number, press the “SELECT” button. Press the “SELECT”
button to automatically increase the diagnostic code numbers.
7. Verify the operation of the sensor or actuator.
Sensor operation
The data representing the operating conditions of the sensor appears on the trip LCD.
Actuator operation
Set the engine stop switch to “ ” to operate the actuator.
TIP
If the engine stop switch is set to “ ”, set it to “ ”, and then set it to “ ” again.
8. Turn the main switch to “OFF” to cancel the diagnostic mode.
DIAGNOSTIC MODE
Setting the diagnostic mode
1. Turn the main switch to “OFF” and set the engine stop switch to “ ”.
2. Disconnect the wire harness coupler from the fuel pump.
3. Simultaneously press and hold the “SELECT” and “RESET” buttons, turn the main switch to “ON”,
and continue to press the buttons for 8 seconds or more.
TIP
All displays on the meter disappear except the clock and tripmeter displays.
“dI” appears on the clock LCD.
4. Simultaneously press the “SELECT” and “RESET” buttons for 2 seconds or more to execute the selection.
5. Set the engine stop switch to “OFF”.
6. Select the diagnostic code number that applies to the item that was verified with the fault code number
by pressing the “SELECT” and “RESET” buttons.
TIP
The diagnostic code number appears on the clock LCD (01
–
70).
To decrease the selected diagnostic code number, press the “RESET” button. Press the “RESET”
button to automatically decrease the diagnostic code numbers.
To increase the selected diagnostic code number, press the “SELECT” button. Press the “SELECT”
button to automatically increase the diagnostic code numbers.
7. Verify the operation of the sensor or actuator.
Sensor operation
The data representing the operating conditions of the sensor appears on the trip LCD.
Actuator operation
Set the engine stop switch to “ ” to operate the actuator.
TIP
If the engine stop switch is set to “ ”, set it to “ ”, and then set it to “ ” again.
8. Turn the main switch to “OFF” to cancel the diagnostic mode.
Scott beat me to it i was just about to load it up on the forum and seen the post. LOL. Nice work...
Sorry, it's concert season for me at school. One concert down, 8 more to go in the next 4 weeks, and then my kids graduation..... :zombie::zombie::zombie:
I didn't realize you posted how to get codes. I'll do that today. I did, however, swap harnesses again with no success.
I didn't realize you posted how to get codes. I'll do that today. I did, however, swap harnesses again with no success.
I haven't had time to work on mine either (for different reasons, not concerts). Killing me, but eventually I'll make time. LOL hope you figure it out.
I'm thinking with the bike running strangely and then dropping the speedo, it must be something with a speed sensor or maybe a wire got snagged and chewed up or something. I'll try to find time this weekend to break the bike down and search.
This happened right after I got my bike back from the shop getting new tires, but I don't want to blame the shop. Hoping just a coincidence.
This happened right after I got my bike back from the shop getting new tires, but I don't want to blame the shop. Hoping just a coincidence.
Yeah, I hear ya. I initially thought my problem was fuel system related, because of the gas cap problem. After getting lots of input (especially Marthy's) I have narrowed it down to a timing issue. Ordered a new cam tensioner. Need to tear down to check timing still though.
98Deathmage
Member
We can get together some time and compare bikes and see if something is out of place or maybe swap parts if we can narrow down the problem.
It's hectic right now. As a music teacher ending the school year I've done 2 concerts and have 8 more in 3 weeks, then graduation, grade book, and nailing down summer employment.
SOME PROGRESS!!
I forgot to pull codes but went over the bike yesterday, every wire I could find. Plugged and unplugged everything electrical. PCV was unplugged but I left power, ground, and speed sensor wire. I took the tap out of the speed sensor wire, spun the wheel on the stand, and the speedo worked! I pulled back the insulation on the wire and made a clean connect without using the tap. DAMN! PCV really does add a serious amount of power!
Bad news, still dropping power in the same spot most of the time. If I shift quickly I get a few seconds of that power loss even into the next gear, even at much lower rpms. Sometimes I can get it to redline in second gear, but most of the time there is a mighty loss of power around 9k.
Really feels like my GS500 and my wife's Ninja 250 when one of the main jets got crap in there. I added Lucas fuel treatment last time, but that's known to be a safe cleaner. Now I'm gonna add some Chevron Techron when I fill up tomorrow. I don't think it's gas related, but it's worth a shot! If it doesn't clear up, I'll empty the tank next time it gets low just to cross gas off the list completely.
DEATHMAGE
Think I'm gonna have to take you up on that in a couple weeks
SCOTT
I hope mine isn't timing, don't see how it could be. Hope you get yours figured out!
SOME PROGRESS!!
I forgot to pull codes but went over the bike yesterday, every wire I could find. Plugged and unplugged everything electrical. PCV was unplugged but I left power, ground, and speed sensor wire. I took the tap out of the speed sensor wire, spun the wheel on the stand, and the speedo worked! I pulled back the insulation on the wire and made a clean connect without using the tap. DAMN! PCV really does add a serious amount of power!
Bad news, still dropping power in the same spot most of the time. If I shift quickly I get a few seconds of that power loss even into the next gear, even at much lower rpms. Sometimes I can get it to redline in second gear, but most of the time there is a mighty loss of power around 9k.
Really feels like my GS500 and my wife's Ninja 250 when one of the main jets got crap in there. I added Lucas fuel treatment last time, but that's known to be a safe cleaner. Now I'm gonna add some Chevron Techron when I fill up tomorrow. I don't think it's gas related, but it's worth a shot! If it doesn't clear up, I'll empty the tank next time it gets low just to cross gas off the list completely.
DEATHMAGE
Think I'm gonna have to take you up on that in a couple weeks
SCOTT
I hope mine isn't timing, don't see how it could be. Hope you get yours figured out!
That's good news. Keep at it. I don't think yours is timing, just ranting because mine is f'd up.
Yeah Scott I'm almost positive mine has nothing to do with timing... but since I can't find the issue I can't take it off the table. Bike has less than 10,000 miles on it and I didn't have this issue last season...
I'm gonna try to pull codes and change the oil this weekend. At least it's functional and safe for the road (I think) but I'm still :banghead::banghead::banghead:
I'm gonna try to pull codes and change the oil this weekend. At least it's functional and safe for the road (I think) but I'm still :banghead::banghead::banghead:
98Deathmage
Member
I understand the last couple of weeks being hectic. My younger brother is graduating high school in a few weeks so thats a lot of fun.
Hit me up if you still have my number or post on the FB page and we can arrange a day to tear both bikes apart and compare parts. Im thinking something electrical is loose.
Thought of something. Kinda thought it might come to this, but it's a pain in the @$$ to do.... spark plugs. Right before winter I swapped in some iridium plugs. I think I could get to redline before Christmas but I can't be certain.
Damn.... I'm gonna have to swap plugs again. Anyone want Iridiums with under a thousand miles on em?????
Damn.... I'm gonna have to swap plugs again. Anyone want Iridiums with under a thousand miles on em?????
did it work???????????Thought of something. Kinda thought it might come to this, but it's a pain in the @$$ to do.... spark plugs. Right before winter I swapped in some iridium plugs. I think I could get to redline before Christmas but I can't be certain.
Damn.... I'm gonna have to swap plugs again. Anyone want Iridiums with under a thousand miles on em?????
Oh shit sorry. Yup, swapped in some non Iridium plugs and bike works great. Never going back!!did it work???????????
Final Impact
Member
Glad you found the issue.
That said, it really sounded like the fuel pickup strainer is plugged and its starving for fuel. WOT takes the most volume and debris in the tank could be stuck on the filter limiting fuel flow.
Any chance all the times the tank was lifted it rinsed itself clean? Next time you run the tank down low take a flashlight and look inside for rust.
What was the plug gap on the iridium plugs?
Also, could you add some detail about what it really did? Are you saying it was like turning the key off until it got back to 9k and then its comes back to life only to misfire/shutdown again?
Last thing; if you ever need to do a quick FC bypass, just unplug the injector leads from the FC and connect the OEM plug into the injectors and it will run from OEM ECU map assuming all of the connections are good.
It's been a while but I'll do my best to clear some things up for you Final_Impact.
I guess the issue first started after it sat for the winter. I did a street fighter conversion with super low bars, new headlights, etc. Rode it about a month, hated it, and returned it back to stock right before storing for winter. Right before I put it away I did oil, air filter, and plugs, added fuel stabilizer, topped off the tank, lubed the chain, got the battery on a tender, and got the tires up off the ground - standard routine from December-ish to March-ish in the Washington DC area.
The new plugs I put in were Iridiums that were supposed to be set at FZ6R gap. When I worked at auto part stores we were always told NOT to manually gap Iridium plugs, the small bit of iridium on the tip will get scratched off. True or false, I never checked the gap, nor can I tell you what the gap was.
I got my gas gauge to flashing yesterday and looked inside before filling up. There is nothing suspicious or rusty that I can see inside the tank. I tried 2 different cleaners and put quite a few tanks of gas through the bike during this whole endeavor. I kept daily driving it, so I probably did a little over a tank of gas a week. If there was a gas issue I assume it would have cleared out by then.
What I can tell you for sure is after riding the bike for 30 minutes before changing the plugs, and then riding the bike after changing the plugs there was a HUGE difference in the way the bike performed. It was smoother, had more torque through the whole band, and in the 7k range WOT it got its b@lls back. It was almost like riding a different bike. That is an apples to apples comparison for sure.
And thanks for that Power Commander tip. I have no idea why I didn't think of that!!!!
I guess the issue first started after it sat for the winter. I did a street fighter conversion with super low bars, new headlights, etc. Rode it about a month, hated it, and returned it back to stock right before storing for winter. Right before I put it away I did oil, air filter, and plugs, added fuel stabilizer, topped off the tank, lubed the chain, got the battery on a tender, and got the tires up off the ground - standard routine from December-ish to March-ish in the Washington DC area.
The new plugs I put in were Iridiums that were supposed to be set at FZ6R gap. When I worked at auto part stores we were always told NOT to manually gap Iridium plugs, the small bit of iridium on the tip will get scratched off. True or false, I never checked the gap, nor can I tell you what the gap was.
I got my gas gauge to flashing yesterday and looked inside before filling up. There is nothing suspicious or rusty that I can see inside the tank. I tried 2 different cleaners and put quite a few tanks of gas through the bike during this whole endeavor. I kept daily driving it, so I probably did a little over a tank of gas a week. If there was a gas issue I assume it would have cleared out by then.
What I can tell you for sure is after riding the bike for 30 minutes before changing the plugs, and then riding the bike after changing the plugs there was a HUGE difference in the way the bike performed. It was smoother, had more torque through the whole band, and in the 7k range WOT it got its b@lls back. It was almost like riding a different bike. That is an apples to apples comparison for sure.
And thanks for that Power Commander tip. I have no idea why I didn't think of that!!!!
Final Impact
Member
Good info!
IMO and as you know, one plug can have many applications. That said, they must be gapped to the VEHICLE specifications. As the owner operator its in your best interest to verify all plugs for all applications.
So its simply a matter of using the proper tool for tbe job to not damage the precious metal plugs! Only use round wire gauges for checking gap. The major plug manufacturers have videos on topic.
I have some mods to bike and look at the plugs often so its running std carbon plugs of CR10E. Single strap ground a heat range cooler.
IMO and as you know, one plug can have many applications. That said, they must be gapped to the VEHICLE specifications. As the owner operator its in your best interest to verify all plugs for all applications.
So its simply a matter of using the proper tool for tbe job to not damage the precious metal plugs! Only use round wire gauges for checking gap. The major plug manufacturers have videos on topic.
I have some mods to bike and look at the plugs often so its running std carbon plugs of CR10E. Single strap ground a heat range cooler.
Good tip on Power Commander FC. I did the same thing when my cam bolts broke. Bike died on me and when trying to start it would try, so I thought fuel and maybe my FC was toast. I disconnected it and used stock ECU. My problem was not fuel related, but it's a good tip when trouble shooting.