i hope its water in tank

[leprecaun jon]

I bet leprecaun jon can fix up those muffler bearings and carburetor belts lickety split.

you bet your ass i could!


i just sold some muffler bearings and a carburetor with a new carburetor belt on ebay a few weeks ago

 

[leprecaun jon]

Don't you need a motorcycle license to do track days?

good question....lol

 

[JSP]

I'm sorry I was mistaken in my earlier post what you are experiencing is smoke coming from your muffler bearings, and the only thing that can cause your muffler bearings to get hot enough to smoke is a carburetor belt slipping, both are very costly repairs but I'd be willing to do a favor for a fellow forum member and take it off your hands for $500. I know you will be loosing money but those repairs will cost in excess of $7500

It is obviously leaking blinker fluid into his flux capacitor induction link. Fairly simple fix. Get yourself a good, and I mean GOOD left handed metric screw driver and some lubricating adhesive. Pull off the shaft drive master link to get to the blinker fluid reservoir. Undo it with your trusty lefty metric screwdriver. Fill it with the lubricating adhesive so it can penetrate/lube and seal both the blinker res and the flux capacitor induction system. Put it all together and you should be good! Oh, make sure you use synthetic fluid. Only a noob would use anything else. A good one is called "Royal Gullible" . Think it comes in a purple bottle or something. Never used it myself though.

While you are at it, get that crappy winter air out of your tires. These bikes require summer air only. Do the right thing.

 

[klawson]

I hear that if the blinker resorvoir is leaking and you don't want to
replace it, use about 18 inches of center-line tape (sticky side out).

 

[See red]

Center line tape only works for the non lubricated type. You need to use ribbon tape for the lubricated type, if you can get it with 30 guage and make sure you wire it for npn not pnp.

 

[Mr Citrus]

Wait a minute.
I'm so confused

 

[leprecaun jon]

Wait a minute.
I'm so confused

you would be ..... when was the last time you changed and flushed your headlight fluid citrus? it may be over dew...i hear if you let the wobbler bearing go for to long your handling will go to shit as well...

 

[Mr Citrus]

Well heck, I actually googled headlight fluid earlier.:surrender:

 

[See red]

Don't get us started on the handling! lol!!!

 

[Mr Citrus]

This reminds me guys, what kind of oil do you suggest?

 

[See red]

the oilier the better??? lol! I use the Yamalube.

 

[Mr Citrus]

I wasn't expecting a serious response Time for me to leave the internet for the night.

 

[buzzbomb]

You know, since ya'll are being SO helpful to this obviously sincere, unlicensed rider, who happens to "own" a bike, that he's never ridden, but wishes to sell:

I've noticed that my bike goes FORWARD when I twist the handle-thingy BACKWARD!!! WTF!! I'm thinking maybe that the carb belt (previously pointed out to us noobs) is on backwards and it's making the carbs suck in when they should be blowing out. Yes, yes, I've taken the left handed Filipe's screw driver (paid a pretty penny for that one) and fully adjusted the belt tensioner overdrive modulator all the way to the North, just like it says here on the forum (use the search function). But no dice. *sigh*

 

[txjames]

You know, since ya'll are being SO helpful to this obviously sincere, unlicensed rider, who happens to "own" a bike, that he's never ridden, but wishes to sell:

I've noticed that my bike goes FORWARD when I twist the handle-thingy BACKWARD!!! WTF!! I'm thinking maybe that the carb belt (previously pointed out to us noobs) is on backwards and it's making the carbs suck in when they should be blowing out. Yes, yes, I've taken the left handed Filipe's screw driver (paid a pretty penny for that one) and fully adjusted the belt tensioner overdrive modulator all the way to the North, just like it says here on the forum (use the search function). But no dice. *sigh*

Well, Buzz, you really answered your own question there. You said you adjusted the OD Modulator all the way North. But, unless you flipped the grips at some point, you should have made the adjustment all the way South. Then they are phase-coupled with the throttle direction. I hope that helps.

 

[buzzbomb]

Well, Buzz, you really answered your own question there. You said you adjusted the OD Modulator all the way North. But, unless you flipped the grips at some point, you should have made the adjustment all the way South. Then they are phase-coupled with the throttle direction. I hope that helps.

Ah, the light dawns! I did not personally flip the grips, but the bike is used. Perhaps the previous owner did. In which case, by adjusting the ODM to the North, I was actually making the problem worse! That explains a lot. That's why it goes so fast when I turned the grip backward! Who would've thought??!!

 

[leprecaun jon]

Ah, the light dawns! I did not personally flip the grips, but the bike is used. Perhaps the previous owner did. In which case, by adjusting the ODM to the North, I was actually making the problem worse! That explains a lot. That's why it goes so fast when I turned the grip backward! Who would've thought??!!

:rtfm:..... noobs

 

[Mr Citrus]

You know, since ya'll are being SO helpful to this obviously sincere, unlicensed rider, who happens to "own" a bike, that he's never ridden, but wishes to sell:

I've noticed that my bike goes FORWARD when I twist the handle-thingy BACKWARD!!! WTF!! I'm thinking maybe that the carb belt (previously pointed out to us noobs) is on backwards and it's making the carbs suck in when they should be blowing out. Yes, yes, I've taken the left handed Filipe's screw driver (paid a pretty penny for that one) and fully adjusted the belt tensioner overdrive modulator all the way to the North, just like it says here on the forum (use the search function). But no dice. *sigh*

LEGENDARY!
You actually made me feel bad for our previous posts, until I kept reading.

 

[Blue-Sun]

I'm wondering if coolant leaked into the oil via a crack in the block or head gasket problem. Even though it doesn't smell like traditional coolant coming out of the exhaust, someone might have replaced the coolant with water or Engine Ice or some other product that doesn't smell like traditional coolant being burned. Open the radiator cap and look for oil residue contaminating the coolant, then pull the oil dipstick and look for a white(ish) residue on it. If you have either situation, you probably have an oil/coolant contamination problem. At this point, you would need to track down whether it is a head gasket problem or a crack in the block or head.

I'd also top off all the fluids and see if you are losing coolant, if you are losing a lot of coolant and can't see a visible leak, you may be looking at a crack or head gasket.

 

[Chevyfazer]

I'm wondering if coolant leaked into the oil via a crack in the block or head gasket problem. Even though it doesn't smell like traditional coolant coming out of the exhaust, someone might have replaced the coolant with water or Engine Ice or some other product that doesn't smell like traditional coolant being burned. Open the radiator cap and look for oil residue contaminating the coolant, then pull the oil dipstick and look for a white(ish) residue on it. If you have either situation, you probably have an oil/coolant contamination problem. At this point, you would need to track down whether it is a head gasket problem or a crack in the block or head.

I'd also top off all the fluids and see if you are losing coolant, if you are losing a lot of coolant and can't see a visible leak, you may be looking at a crack or head gasket.

No I'm pretty sure it's the carburetor belt slipping...

 

[JSP]

I'm wondering if coolant leaked into the oil via a crack in the block or head gasket problem. Even though it doesn't smell like traditional coolant coming out of the exhaust, someone might have replaced the coolant with water or Engine Ice or some other product that doesn't smell like traditional coolant being burned. Open the radiator cap and look for oil residue contaminating the coolant, then pull the oil dipstick and look for a white(ish) residue on it. If you have either situation, you probably have an oil/coolant contamination problem. At this point, you would need to track down whether it is a head gasket problem or a crack in the block or head.

I'd also top off all the fluids and see if you are losing coolant, if you are losing a lot of coolant and can't see a visible leak, you may be looking at a crack or head gasket.

Sheesh... looks like we got a joker on our hands guys. What kind of response is this? All of us are giving this guy honest genuine advice and you come in with some smart ass response like that. Whats this world coming to where a guy can't just come to a forum and expect a realistic answer?































:justkidding: Love ya Blue!