HOWTO: Install Graves AIS Blockoffs
- Thread starter vitrox
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samili2109
New Member
this is done without adjustment Or I need power commande for its work well?
No, it does not affect the fueling, it simply clears up the cam cover and stops the popping on deceleration with after-market exhaust. Exhaust runs cooler too.
Does this affect emissions or anything negatively? Like when I take it for the yearly inspection here in Texas (unless they get rid of them. Fingers crossed lol), will they cause me to fail or have a harder time passing? I HATE the popping on decel but I'd rather not toss the AIS back on for an emissions test every year.
Does Texas emission test bikes? PA has inspections, but no emissions for bikes.
Oh I'm not sure, they may not. The dealer messed with inspection before I bought it so I've never dealt with it. I guess if they dont, ill be installing these plates
You're right, Texas doesn't do motorcycle emissions. Should've checked first lol
Final Impact
Member
FWIW the main reason AIS blocking plates are installed is to get a proper O2 reading when on the dyno and/or using an O2 data logger as the added air fouls up testing making it look lean when it is not.
I installed mine today (not graves, but block off plates none the less). I'm not happy with it. I expected a good decrease in the popping sound. It is definitely different, but not any better. It actually sounds like a backfire now. Seems like an actual dyno tune is the best thing I can do at this point. I HATE HATE HATE the popping lol. I expected too much out of this I guess.
Anyways, I have a tip for those of you who haven't done this yet. You don't need to remove the tank or even set it off to the side. Just undo the two front tank bolts, tiltt the tank back and undo the two electrical connectors, and put something (like a backpack) where the seats would be. I don't have a rear stand so my bike was leaning to the side. To keep the tank from slipping to the side at all, I used a short bungee cord (like the picture shows)
Anyways, I have a tip for those of you who haven't done this yet. You don't need to remove the tank or even set it off to the side. Just undo the two front tank bolts, tiltt the tank back and undo the two electrical connectors, and put something (like a backpack) where the seats would be. I don't have a rear stand so my bike was leaning to the side. To keep the tank from slipping to the side at all, I used a short bungee cord (like the picture shows)
Which map are you running? I have a viper exhaust, fz6 cams, airbox mod, vstacks, etc with very little popping. I get some under really hard decel, but not a lot. Under normal riding I get little to none. I am running a map specifically for my setup, but not dyno tuned. Which is love to do (should be hitting 80+ rwhp). I ran advanced gear rev b , before I changed cams. Also running pc5 for fueling.I installed mine today (not graves, but block off plates none the less). I'm not happy with it. I expected a good decrease in the popping sound. It is definitely different, but not any better. It actually sounds like a backfire now. Seems like an actual dyno tune is the best thing I can do at this point. I HATE HATE HATE the popping lol. I expected too much out of this I guess.
Anyways, I have a tip for those of you who haven't done this yet. You don't need to remove the tank or even set it off to the side. Just undo the two front tank bolts, tiltt the tank back and undo the two electrical connectors, and put something (like a backpack) where the seats would be. I don't have a rear stand so my bike was leaning to the side. To keep the tank from slipping to the side at all, I used a short bungee cord (like the picture shows)
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Marthy's adv gear rev b on the pcV. Two bros exhaust, stock air filter, block off plates. It's not horrible. After riding it few days it really did get rid of a lot. I notice it pops a lot under deccel around 4grand. I think I just expected it to eliminate almost all of the popping. When I went for a test ride and hear popping it pissed me off. It took me an hour in 95 degree humid weather and I was disappointed lol.
I did this mod two months ago using black path aluminum plates. I also have the marthy exhaust. I rarely get a pop now and when I do it's only a quick pop or two, and after decelerating from hard riding. Are you sure they seated properly? Did you seal off that casing nipple after installing the plates as well?
The nipple on the airbox lid?
You might have to go to the dyno and tune the popping out completely. I'm not using a power commander or other type of fuel controller so that may be the difference. I know marthy' maps are good but they aren't tuned to your specific bike's exact mods or specs. I think that's how it is anyway. I remember tuning one of my cars way back after hopping it up and I used one of the admin's maps which was a general plug and play. It didn't work for me too well so I dyno tuned it and it was perfect after. Good luck with it whichever way you go.
Look up my posts and you can see pics. I used Black Path Block offs. Not hard to do. Change your plugs while you are in there.
texas09fz6r
New Member
This was a great how to. I did this tonight along with the Airbox mod and k/n filter. It's been raining for a week but I am looking forward to riding and seeing how it goes.
Oh, just to get back to the OP, I do get some popping and gurgling on hard deceleration, with my block off plates. I believe it's a function of a slightly rich map using the Adv Gear Rev B Marthy map. A little rich is a good thing.
I have a pro tuned 340 WTQ 336 WHP 2004 Sti. Before the protune using off the shelf Cobb maps it backfired a bunch and sometimes shot flames due to the safe, but rich Cobb maps. After the pro-tune by Agile Performance, it rarely actually backfires, and only has slight gurgles on deceleration. On that car with my mods it made a HUGE power and smoothness difference. But, the Cobb tuning software gives the experienced tuner A LOT of variables to tune... way more than what I understand can be done with our bikes.
Given what is adjustable on our bikes with a Dyno tune and how good the Adv Gear Rev B map is, I doubt it's worth the full price for a dyno tune. I am sure it may be slightly better, but doubt it's a huge difference. I'd love to hear from someone that has done it with a similar set up that we are talking about.
For me, I actually like the hard decel sounds my bike make now with my Delkevic D70 can.
I have a pro tuned 340 WTQ 336 WHP 2004 Sti. Before the protune using off the shelf Cobb maps it backfired a bunch and sometimes shot flames due to the safe, but rich Cobb maps. After the pro-tune by Agile Performance, it rarely actually backfires, and only has slight gurgles on deceleration. On that car with my mods it made a HUGE power and smoothness difference. But, the Cobb tuning software gives the experienced tuner A LOT of variables to tune... way more than what I understand can be done with our bikes.
Given what is adjustable on our bikes with a Dyno tune and how good the Adv Gear Rev B map is, I doubt it's worth the full price for a dyno tune. I am sure it may be slightly better, but doubt it's a huge difference. I'd love to hear from someone that has done it with a similar set up that we are talking about.
For me, I actually like the hard decel sounds my bike make now with my Delkevic D70 can.