Pics are reposted.
No problem man. That's why this forum is great...helping each other out. I can't believe its been over two years since I posted this thread!!Roaddawg,
I just wanted to say thanks for this great write-up. Changing plugs on an I-4 can be a bit "painful" but your post sure made it easier on this bike. I appreciate you taking the time to share that with everyone.
:thumbup:
Thanks again bro!
If someone else gets to it before me, then by all means... if not, I'll see about putting this into a pdf when I get to work. We might also want to make a copy in the new wiki
Yeah I just did the NGK too. I set them to the lower scale of gap (28). The IX aren't bad (iridium).That's what I tough... I ordered a set of NGK, they're in sale at MSStore. -10% coupon too.
Thanks!
service maual quoteI'm due for my spark plug change... This is the perfect thread to help, thanks for posting it OP!
Anyone know what the torque spec are for the plugs? Also, what's the gap range?
A screenshot of the service manual would be much appreciate.
Everything I have ever read for spark plugs is that you just turn until they are nice and Finger tight. You never want to make them super tight.I'm due for my spark plug change... This is the perfect thread to help, thanks for posting it OP!
Anyone know what the torque spec are for the plugs? Also, what's the gap range?
A screenshot of the service manual would be much appreciate.
Okay thanks. I've done plugs on cars before and they actually have a torque spec, although it's barely anything, something like 7 ft/lbs.Everything I have ever read for spark plugs is that you just turn until they are nice and Finger tight. You never want to make them super tight.
When I did mine I just kept turning the included (tool kit) spark plug wrench until it stopped and with light pressure would not turn anymore.