Drive Chain Loose at 17k miles?


I

ivweekends

New Member
What's up everyone. I have about 17k miles on the my 2011 FZ6R. I jut noticed my chain keeps getting loose even though I keep adjusting/tightening it. I was hoping to find out what could be causing this. I read here on the forum that it could be time to replace the chain but I thought that sounded too early at just 17k miles? Any feedback or experience you could share would be great! If it's time to replace chain, any suggestion as to where to get one online, is this something I could do myself or would require the dealer to do it, what model or brand of chain to get as replacement, etc. etc. would be great. Thanks!
 
A

abyss1406

Member
you most likely have multiple kinks in your chain. 17k is a lot of miles for a chain period.
Our chain size is 520/120 link o-ring . "D.I.D" chains are awesome, "RK racing" are also really good. I have an RK 520 XW chain and its awesome. it has just over 2500 miles on it and still looks great. But buy what you want dude its your bike.

You can do it your self all you need is x2 12mm wrenchs, x1 torque wrench, x2 21mm sockets and ratchets, x1 chain breaker.

Loosen the chain adjusters on both sides, loosen the axle bolt, push the rear wheel foward, break the chain, CLEAN EVERYTHING!!!!!, route the new chain using the old chain, remove excess slack from new chain, press or rivet the new master link on the new chain, adjust chain slack in accordance with manufactures specifications, tighten chain adjustment lock nuts, double check even adjustment on swingarm, tighten and torque axle bolt in accordance with manutfactures specification
 
Last edited:
J

JT

Monster Member
Elite Member
abyss1406 said:
you most likely have multiple kinks in your chain. 17k is a lot of miles for a chain period.
Our chain size is 520/125 link o-ring . "D.I.D" chains are awesome, "RK racing" are also really good. I have an RK 520 XW chain and its awesome. it has just over 2500 miles on it and still looks great. But buy what you want dude its your bike.

You can do it your self all you need is x2 12mm wrenchs, x1 torque wrench, x2 21mm sockets and ratchets, x1 chain breaker.

Loosen the chain adjusters on both sides, loosen the axle bolt, push the rear wheel foward, break the chain, CLEAN EVERYTHING!!!!!, route the new chain using the old chain, remove excess slack from new chain, press or rivet the new master link on the new chain, adjust chain slack in accordance with manufactures specifications, tighten chain adjustment lock nuts, double check even adjustment on swingarm, tighten and torque axle bolt in accordance with manutfactures specification
Click to expand...

Great advice!! give the man some rep!
 
M

mikebaileyvienna

Member
Elite Member
mine seems great

My chain also has about 17K on it but it seems sound, doesn't pull away from the sprocket hardly at all, not much noise, no signs of wear. BUT...I am probably going to replace it sometime this summer. With that, here are some questions:
a) replace the sprocket at the same time? Front, back, both?
b) going +1 on the front sprocket increases the gear by 2% -- I see chatter about this in this forum, but do people typically mess with the gearing or just talk? I'm inclined to go +2 and thus get to about 75mph at 6K in 6th.
c) above says 520/125, but chains seem to be sold in increments of 10 (110, 120, 130,...). Typical to buy a 130 and shorten the chain? What does the 125 measure?
d) anyone have a favorite chain that comes in colors? I was thinking red.

Thanks
 
F

FastFreddy

New Member
17K is a lot for a new chain.
However, after all the work replacing the first chain, my 2nd chain has lasted much longer due to regular cleaning, I've got about 35000km on it now and have only adjusted once in that time.

Replace both sprockets and chain at once, I remember having to adjust mine constantly before I gave up and got a new one.

Pull on the chain at the back of the sprocket, if it moves, your sprockets are probably worn and the chain stretched.

Also eyeball the sprocket U shapes as well, are they looking weird or symmetrical and consistent.

I tried a steel sprocket at the rear, but I could feel the extra unsprung weight, so I stuck to the stock parts personally and look after them better now.

Be aware that the chain angle and geometry change if changing sprockets from stock sizes.
 
Y

yellowfz

abyss1406 said:
you most likely have multiple kinks in your chain. 17k is a lot of miles for a chain period.
Our chain size is 520/125 link o-ring . "D.I.D" chains are awesome, "RK racing" are also really good. I have an RK 520 XW chain and its awesome. it has just over 2500 miles on it and still looks great. But buy what you want dude its your bike.

You can do it your self all you need is x2 12mm wrenchs, x1 torque wrench, x2 21mm sockets and ratchets, x1 chain breaker.

Loosen the chain adjusters on both sides, loosen the axle bolt, push the rear wheel foward, break the chain, CLEAN EVERYTHING!!!!!, route the new chain using the old chain, remove excess slack from new chain, press or rivet the new master link on the new chain, adjust chain slack in accordance with manufactures specifications, tighten chain adjustment lock nuts, double check even adjustment on swingarm, tighten and torque axle bolt in accordance with manutfactures specification
Click to expand...
I have over 25,000 on mine and still in good shape, depends on rider and care taken, I look to get at least 40,000 or more. I ride hard too.
 
B

bmw675

New Member
Also remember, the more you tighten it, the faster it will stretch. Keep it on the looser side of the spec.
 
Y

yellowfz

Our little 70hp bikes are no where near the hp needed to stretch the chains much, 520 is rated for a 1000cc bike and you can read of 200 plus hp with one.
 
L

leem00

Sport touring Member
Elite Member
yellowfz said:
Our little 70hp bikes are no where near the hp needed to stretch the chains much, 520 is rated for a 1000cc bike and you can read of 200 plus hp with one.
Click to expand...
Its not HP that stretches chains...its torque...and the amount weight on the bike...
 
Y

yellowfz

leem00 said:
Its not HP that stretches chains...its torque...and the amount weight on the bike...
Click to expand...
As a old tuner once told me when I was learning -- takes HP to get Torque, there is a direct coloration.
Sounds as if the guy either is a new rider and lugs the bike a lot -- lurching and jerking, or a seasoned rider that does clutch monos at every red light, or he is not tightening the nut and/or the adjusters correctly.
 
D

dart1963

Super Moderator
Elite Member
J

JT

Monster Member
Elite Member
yellowfz said:
As a old tuner once told me when I was learning -- takes HP to get Torque, there is a direct coloration.
Sounds as if the guy either is a new rider and lugs the bike a lot -- lurching and jerking, or a seasoned rider that does clutch monos at every red light, or he is not tightening the nut and/or the adjusters correctly.
Click to expand...


love you Signature YellowFZ
 
L

latony007

New Member
JT said:
See Tony that's why people vote for my rear tire! because I approve shit lol
Click to expand...
lol, you got me afraid to look at the april winner, will probably be a picture of someones grip or something :)
 

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