Is the rear sprocket steel or aluminum ? Manufactured by ?
+1 up front = great!
- Thread starter Pizz
- Start date
Aluminum Red anodize, chain too. Got it from Indysuperbike as sprocket and chain kit. Chain is EK and sprockets are Vortex... I need to double check my invoice... Not sure about red... It should look cool with a yellow bike...
Product: Vortex Chains and Sprockets Kits - 520 Conversion Kits
Quantity: 1
Selected options:
Sprocket Bike Model: FZ6R 09-10
Select Rear Sprocket Finish: CAT5 Red
Select Chain: EK 520MVXZ Red
Select Front Tooth Count: 17
Select Rear Tooth Count: 44
Item price: $ 167.95 + $15.00 shipping...
Big fan of Indysuperbike. Good service and price are competitive...
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Doing both of those is a little extreme for this bike. But the acceleration coming out of the corners would be awesome. I've thought about going +2 on the rear just for that. If I get down to 6k on the tach I down shift. This is a bike with an inline 4, not a car or some low rev'ing V-Twin. It's designed to be high rev'ing. You're not even in the meat of the power band until about 7500RPM. The only times I've ever hit 6th gear is on a flat freeway when there are no cars around and I'm thinking about gas milage. Otherwise I don't usually get past 5th on the freeway and rarely over 4th anywhere else, even at speeds of 70+ in the twisties.I like to stay in the power band and be able to use the throttle to punch out of any situation I'm in. Especially on the freeway. If you're cruising at 4500 or 5000 RPM, you're going to be bogged down if you have to punch it to get out of the way of something.
+1
On my R6, when I am spirited riding, I dont ever go under 10k. Usually stay 11-16k rpm. (which means most of the time I never get out of 2nd gear unless on a long straight)
Highway cruising I am still only at around 6-7k... These engines are designed to be higher revving. You can actually cause damage by lugging the engine in too low of an RPM. More clutch wear when starting out as well with the different sprocket if it bogs it down too much.
Hey Jay, i Put about 9500 miles on my 16/38 with no problem. 17/44 is one gear overdrive (1/2 way from 16/38). I will still be spinning 6500 at 80mph in top gear. Doing 80-90 here on I-95 is pretty much standard...
Also with the Viper exhaust & map the gain between 6k to 8k is amazing. Then when you hit 8k is even better!
Also with the Viper exhaust & map the gain between 6k to 8k is amazing. Then when you hit 8k is even better!
I too installed the +1 sprocket in my bike as well. I am glad I had the 30mm socket and 18" socket wrench! The install was straight forward and took 20 minutes or so. I also gave the chain a good cleaning before I started. The bike speedo is dead on now as well as a more relaxed ride at high speed. I did not notice much difference at the lower end. Then again I do not ride my bike hard so I tend to keep the RPM down when I am at lower speed around town. All in all a great mod.
My odometer was off a little before the gear change, but is a little bit off the other way now after the gear change. My speedo is perfect now though per my garmin 750.
Nope, and I ride on the hills in San Francisco.
Yes. Just putting on the front +1 is good. I can still get on it with plenty of speed, but it makes long freeway runs nicer with the less RPM's. And, then the bonus of the speedo actually being accurate is nice too.
Here's my thought (and I've said this before), if you commute or do long hauls, the +1 is totally worth doing. If your just a weekend warrior and don't ride it much...don't bother. That's my 2 cents.
Part of me wants to start a new thread for this, part of me wants to raise the dead, necromancy wins.
I installed the +1 (17 tooth) front sprocket a few thousand miles ago and recall thinking that the chain is now touching the black plastic chain guide. I figured I was just being paranoid, but the chain noise was definitely louder and my gas mileage didn't really change.
Yesterday I remembered to check it out. I pulled the chain guide off and inspected it, and there was definitey rubbing. I know I installed the sprocket correctly (I checked which way about 672 times) but my chain was rubbing the black "track" on one side and was wearing it down, not to mention the chain links were all rubbed clean where they were touching the chain guide. Sorry, no pics taken, I feel foolish now for having to paint a picture with words.
I took the chain guide and Xacto'd enough off so now it doesn't touch the chain at all. My first thought was to remove the chain guide completely, but it seems to be an integral part of the clutch structure, and it catches a lot of the flinging lube so I left it on.
I have yet to go through a tank of gas to see if my gas mileage has improved, but there is a little less chain noise. Has anyone else inspected their +1 handiwork and noticed the same thing, or something similar?
I installed the +1 (17 tooth) front sprocket a few thousand miles ago and recall thinking that the chain is now touching the black plastic chain guide. I figured I was just being paranoid, but the chain noise was definitely louder and my gas mileage didn't really change.
Yesterday I remembered to check it out. I pulled the chain guide off and inspected it, and there was definitey rubbing. I know I installed the sprocket correctly (I checked which way about 672 times) but my chain was rubbing the black "track" on one side and was wearing it down, not to mention the chain links were all rubbed clean where they were touching the chain guide. Sorry, no pics taken, I feel foolish now for having to paint a picture with words.
I took the chain guide and Xacto'd enough off so now it doesn't touch the chain at all. My first thought was to remove the chain guide completely, but it seems to be an integral part of the clutch structure, and it catches a lot of the flinging lube so I left it on.
I have yet to go through a tank of gas to see if my gas mileage has improved, but there is a little less chain noise. Has anyone else inspected their +1 handiwork and noticed the same thing, or something similar?
I don't understand all this talk about "fixing" the odometer accuracy. The speedo and odo are calibrated separately. OEM odometers read 99.9% accurate, the speedometer is a tad inflated, so if all you guys go nuts fixing the speedometer, then the odometer is inaccurate. It's been this way in cars and bikes for the last 30 years.
This article is good at explaining:
http://www.caranddriver.com/features/02q2/speedometer_scandal!-feature
This article is good at explaining:
http://www.caranddriver.com/features/02q2/speedometer_scandal!-feature
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One of your bikes have been messed with....stock reads accurate.
This.:thumbup: