I got my FZ6R last March and so far I have put 14,000 miles on it. I live in Pennsylvania and winter is definitely here. When I leave for work in the morning the temperatures are in the 20's. The cold temperatures don’t bother me at all. I have plenty of warm gear. All of the salt on the roads is my concern. After coming home from work the bike and I are usually covered in a fine white dust. I feel like I’m going to rust my bike away to nothing if I keep riding. I just don’t want to stop. How does the bike hold up for those who ride in areas where they salt heavily?
Winters here but I can’t stop riding.
- Thread starter Dustin600
- Start date
don't do it...
that's why I pretty much stopped riding in the rain and when they put that "pre" snow treatment down. I still try to get out for maybe an hour or so ride around the block, but I just won't do the 35mile each way commute... to rough on the bike and it's not like I can just hose her down when I get home.
that's why I pretty much stopped riding in the rain and when they put that "pre" snow treatment down. I still try to get out for maybe an hour or so ride around the block, but I just won't do the 35mile each way commute... to rough on the bike and it's not like I can just hose her down when I get home.
I’ve been debating giving the bike a good wash and wax this weekend when the temp goes above 32* just to remove as much salt and dirt as I can. Then put it away for the remainder of the winter. I want to keep riding but I also want my bike to look good for as long as it can. Thanks for the advice.
Riding in extreme weather gives me a sense of adventure. But thing you have to worry about in the winter is loose salt in turns and black ice. Also it is getting dark after 4, so with a poor visibility these things aren't visible.
Getting my bike dirty is the last thing I'd worry about.
Getting my bike dirty is the last thing I'd worry about.
Thanks. I'll take that as a compliment!
I feel the same way about winter riding. The cold air feels great. I'm not worried about the dirt on my bike as much as the salt laying on the metal parts and speeding up the corrosion process. I know the painted parts will hold up better but the fasteners and chain have little protection against corrosion.
I ride until the roads are salted. I used to ride all winter when ever the roads were clear of snow and the temp wasn't too bad. I'd wash the bike but still the salt worked it's magic. The "looks" part I could live with, the corroded wires and connections eventually cost me a couple of season of unreliable electrics. So instead of riding my bike on some beautiful summer evenings I was home, in the garage cleaning connections, and changing wires. It doesn't happen overnight. I expect you'll have sold your bike and moved on, but if you keep your bikes like I do, then down the road you'll be buying Di-electric grease in the BIG tube.
My advice; Don't ride until the roads are clear of salt, after a cleansing rain or two. Hey guy I know your winters in York are a lot shorter than mine. You will be riding a month I will.
Anson
My advice; Don't ride until the roads are clear of salt, after a cleansing rain or two. Hey guy I know your winters in York are a lot shorter than mine. You will be riding a month I will.
Anson
Im glad that you brought this up Dustin, iv been eating salt to.
I just considered my stock exhaust a timebomb for rust.But I have been worried about my frame and everything else.
I bought a Shinko 009 Raven for a little added grip in the rear for the winter, and it honestly isn't doing bad with salt and hardpacked snow.Its just powder snow and ice giving me problems.The cold bothers me more than the traction (if I give the plows a day to clear the main roads).
I was just planning on a good detail cleaning when I change my oil next.I know ill never be able to get it all out, but wont it be easier to watch for rust than on a car?
Can salt get into some of the bearings or something, or am I just worried about rust?
I just considered my stock exhaust a timebomb for rust.But I have been worried about my frame and everything else.
I bought a Shinko 009 Raven for a little added grip in the rear for the winter, and it honestly isn't doing bad with salt and hardpacked snow.Its just powder snow and ice giving me problems.The cold bothers me more than the traction (if I give the plows a day to clear the main roads).
I was just planning on a good detail cleaning when I change my oil next.I know ill never be able to get it all out, but wont it be easier to watch for rust than on a car?
Can salt get into some of the bearings or something, or am I just worried about rust?
Nope... 5F.I hope it is 5C not 5F?? Windshield factor of 5F would probably feel like -10F (or -23C...). That is cold
I'm concerned with the salt because I would like to keep the bike as long as I can. I ride every day and it literally pays for its self in gas savings now. When its paid off I'll save even more. Thanks for your thoughts.
I was planning on a thorough cleaning myself. Like you said, there will probably be some road salt that doesn't come out. It will hide in the nooks and crannies and start to corrode there. It will definately be obvious when it starts to rust but by that point its too late. I'm sure that spraying it with water will only help the salt start the corrosion proccess. I was really hoping to hear someone say that they ride year round and haven't had any issues with rust but I don't think that will be the case.
I guess I set myself up for that one. Sometimes I think it would be nice to live someplace that was warm year round. But I do enjoy winter too.
I'm with you on that, I like having four seasons.... I don't like winter... but it does give me a chance to clean up around the house (hey, what the hell else am I gonna do??? lol), 'cause once Spring rolls around, I'm always busy, with kids, work, riding, etc. and the house just sorts sits there
i too ride all winter. while i will only ride the bike on certain winter days, i take it out for an extended ride whenever possible. this is a bit of a long list and read, but heres a list of things to do when you are riding over the winter to help keep winter damage to a minimum that i put together from varuious websites (i will also make this a thread so anyone who has anyother tips can add them as well):
Wrap it up. The front fork slider (lower part of conventional telescopic forks) gets a hard time whatever the season but with tons of road grit and salt around they can take a right bruising. The solution "Window Insulation" shrink wrap/film. Use it to cover at least the front of the slider.
Take a can of WD40 or similar and spray around hidden areas of the bike, under fairings, on the conventional forks, top of fork legs, over the engine, etc. Expect corrosion if you don’t keep these areas protected!
Check the battery. Sealed batteries require no or little maintenance but if it’s weak, replace it. Standard style batteries should be topped up and Vaseline applied to the terminals. Colder weather will expose any battery deficiencies—most commonly old age. Lower temperatures affect its strength and it’s likely you’ll have to turn the engine over for longer periods before it starts—if it starts.
With more moisture in the air, corrosion can also attack switchgear and electrical connections —so lube them. Undo the screws holding the switchgear together and squirt around with WD40 —do the same to all electrical connections. Pay special attention to those exposed such as brake lights, side stand cut outs, etc.
Lighting. With the daylight hours shortened, it's a good idea to consider upgrading your lighting to give it more brightness. Try installing a more high performance bulb where in many cases these offer nearly 50% more light. You can install high intensity discharge kits yet they can be pricey.
Grease. Dabs of good old fashioned grease will keep bolt heads grout free but can get messy. Try this instead; simply replace cadmium (Cadmium is a soft, malleable, ductile, toxic, bluish-white bivalent metal. It is similar in many respects to zinc but reacts to form more complex compounds-- used largely in batteries and pigments, for example in plastic products source Wikipedia) plated fasteners with stainless steel equivalents. Engine and fairing fasteners replacements will cost you under CAD200. and certainly worth the investment. If you apply copper grease to the tips as you spin them in, they’ll never seize.
Brake systems are vulnerable as well to road sludge. The pins that retain the pads and exposed areas of the pistons should be greased—sparingly using copper grease or special brake grease. Wash them regularly with a toothbrush and soapy water and follow it by a blast from an aerosol brake cleaner and grease. They’ll stay in "stopping good" condition.
Mudguard for the front tire. These extenders will help stop radiators and oil-coolers getting coated and filled with guck. Huggers for the rear also stop the bike from getting coated by the back wheel.
If you have no choice but to leave your motorcycle outside, get a cover yet this does not mean it’s protected. Moist air will still find its way in—including salt if you are parked on a busy street. Keep the bike coated with a water repellent spray—WD40 and only put a bike cover over a dry bike! If not you’ll just be covering and locking in the moisture already present which will cause corrosion.
Exhaust systems are the most difficult to protect. Not a good idea to use plastic coating grease because these will just melt on the pipe creating a nightmare cleaning session in the spring. All you can do is wash it after each ride and try if you can to replace stainless steel bits with mild steel components.
Rear suspension needs a check and greasing of linkages. Best manner to do so is with a grease gun or long reaching brush and be sure to smear the grease around the pivot points. While you’re at it do the foot pegs, centre and side stands.
In winter sticky sports compound tires, contrary to popular belief, seldom get up to working temperature. Touring and street sport tires are of heavier construction and will indeed generate more internal heat. They’ll give you more dry grip and perform better in the wet -plus they’ll last quite a bit longer. And even some manufacturers produce motorcycle winter tires!
Combustion creates lots of nasty byproducts that we loosely classify under the heading of gunk. During warmer months the gunk burns off as the engine warms up. Unfortunately, during the winter, short rides and frigid temperatures may prevent the engine from warming up enough to evaporate the gunk, so it becomes entrained in the oil. When enough gunk contaminates the oil, it starts to break down, which I'm sure we'd all agree is a bad thing. The solution is to change the oil and filter at half the recommend interval during the winter months.
Cosmetics can take a real beating on winter roads; frequent washing helps, but for many, a weekly scrubbing just ain't in the cards. When I can't bucket-wash my bike I hit the do-it-yourself car wash, and in between I keep the bright bits and the paint work well soused with WD-40. The WD (or any other moisture displacing lubricant) will do a decent job of forestalling rust and won't attract dirt like a heavy grease might, plus it's a lot easier to wash off come first grass. Just remember to keep it away from the tires, grips and foot pegs.
Always use a fuel stabilizer, unless you are lucky enough to find a station who still sells the good stuff, when using any type of ethanol fuel.
Wrap it up. The front fork slider (lower part of conventional telescopic forks) gets a hard time whatever the season but with tons of road grit and salt around they can take a right bruising. The solution "Window Insulation" shrink wrap/film. Use it to cover at least the front of the slider.
Take a can of WD40 or similar and spray around hidden areas of the bike, under fairings, on the conventional forks, top of fork legs, over the engine, etc. Expect corrosion if you don’t keep these areas protected!
Check the battery. Sealed batteries require no or little maintenance but if it’s weak, replace it. Standard style batteries should be topped up and Vaseline applied to the terminals. Colder weather will expose any battery deficiencies—most commonly old age. Lower temperatures affect its strength and it’s likely you’ll have to turn the engine over for longer periods before it starts—if it starts.
With more moisture in the air, corrosion can also attack switchgear and electrical connections —so lube them. Undo the screws holding the switchgear together and squirt around with WD40 —do the same to all electrical connections. Pay special attention to those exposed such as brake lights, side stand cut outs, etc.
Lighting. With the daylight hours shortened, it's a good idea to consider upgrading your lighting to give it more brightness. Try installing a more high performance bulb where in many cases these offer nearly 50% more light. You can install high intensity discharge kits yet they can be pricey.
Grease. Dabs of good old fashioned grease will keep bolt heads grout free but can get messy. Try this instead; simply replace cadmium (Cadmium is a soft, malleable, ductile, toxic, bluish-white bivalent metal. It is similar in many respects to zinc but reacts to form more complex compounds-- used largely in batteries and pigments, for example in plastic products source Wikipedia) plated fasteners with stainless steel equivalents. Engine and fairing fasteners replacements will cost you under CAD200. and certainly worth the investment. If you apply copper grease to the tips as you spin them in, they’ll never seize.
Brake systems are vulnerable as well to road sludge. The pins that retain the pads and exposed areas of the pistons should be greased—sparingly using copper grease or special brake grease. Wash them regularly with a toothbrush and soapy water and follow it by a blast from an aerosol brake cleaner and grease. They’ll stay in "stopping good" condition.
Mudguard for the front tire. These extenders will help stop radiators and oil-coolers getting coated and filled with guck. Huggers for the rear also stop the bike from getting coated by the back wheel.
If you have no choice but to leave your motorcycle outside, get a cover yet this does not mean it’s protected. Moist air will still find its way in—including salt if you are parked on a busy street. Keep the bike coated with a water repellent spray—WD40 and only put a bike cover over a dry bike! If not you’ll just be covering and locking in the moisture already present which will cause corrosion.
Exhaust systems are the most difficult to protect. Not a good idea to use plastic coating grease because these will just melt on the pipe creating a nightmare cleaning session in the spring. All you can do is wash it after each ride and try if you can to replace stainless steel bits with mild steel components.
Rear suspension needs a check and greasing of linkages. Best manner to do so is with a grease gun or long reaching brush and be sure to smear the grease around the pivot points. While you’re at it do the foot pegs, centre and side stands.
In winter sticky sports compound tires, contrary to popular belief, seldom get up to working temperature. Touring and street sport tires are of heavier construction and will indeed generate more internal heat. They’ll give you more dry grip and perform better in the wet -plus they’ll last quite a bit longer. And even some manufacturers produce motorcycle winter tires!
Combustion creates lots of nasty byproducts that we loosely classify under the heading of gunk. During warmer months the gunk burns off as the engine warms up. Unfortunately, during the winter, short rides and frigid temperatures may prevent the engine from warming up enough to evaporate the gunk, so it becomes entrained in the oil. When enough gunk contaminates the oil, it starts to break down, which I'm sure we'd all agree is a bad thing. The solution is to change the oil and filter at half the recommend interval during the winter months.
Cosmetics can take a real beating on winter roads; frequent washing helps, but for many, a weekly scrubbing just ain't in the cards. When I can't bucket-wash my bike I hit the do-it-yourself car wash, and in between I keep the bright bits and the paint work well soused with WD-40. The WD (or any other moisture displacing lubricant) will do a decent job of forestalling rust and won't attract dirt like a heavy grease might, plus it's a lot easier to wash off come first grass. Just remember to keep it away from the tires, grips and foot pegs.
Always use a fuel stabilizer, unless you are lucky enough to find a station who still sells the good stuff, when using any type of ethanol fuel.
I ride almost daily... (of course it hasn't really gone below freezing here, yet, and most days are in the 40's-50's).
I don't think they *know* what road salt is in Atlanta... However, I *do* know it'll eat through your bike faster than acid rain... And, at the very least, leave nasty stains, on even galvanized metal (ever see a sacrificial anode on the hull of a salt-water vessel?).
Stay off the salted roads. (And stay off the black ice).
I don't think they *know* what road salt is in Atlanta... However, I *do* know it'll eat through your bike faster than acid rain... And, at the very least, leave nasty stains, on even galvanized metal (ever see a sacrificial anode on the hull of a salt-water vessel?).
Stay off the salted roads. (And stay off the black ice).
My entire point in buying my bike was to acquire a cheaper alternative to a new car payment, that also suits my style.
People go south to buy restoration projects for a reason.Im not saying to just "let it go" or anything.But if im afraid to use it in situations id drive a $20,000 car then whats the point?My bike only cost $6700 otd if I remember correctly.
I like the fz1 more anyway.As long as my 6r lasts until my Yamaha card is paid down, then it served its purpose.
If the 6r isnt having issues at that point, then i'll keep it for my bad weather/commuter and have more of a weekend only state of mind with my new bike.
I like alot of the ideas Crpn mentioned especially the fork wrap.But beyond that its just part of living north.Vehicles wear out faster in worse weather.
I challenge everyone here to find a Jiffy Lube that actually greases the zerks.Im just saying that im already going above and beyond what most people do for a Subaru's maintenance, on a far cheaper vehicle.So why make me worry.But I do appreciate the advice.
People go south to buy restoration projects for a reason.Im not saying to just "let it go" or anything.But if im afraid to use it in situations id drive a $20,000 car then whats the point?My bike only cost $6700 otd if I remember correctly.
I like the fz1 more anyway.As long as my 6r lasts until my Yamaha card is paid down, then it served its purpose.
If the 6r isnt having issues at that point, then i'll keep it for my bad weather/commuter and have more of a weekend only state of mind with my new bike.
I like alot of the ideas Crpn mentioned especially the fork wrap.But beyond that its just part of living north.Vehicles wear out faster in worse weather.
I challenge everyone here to find a Jiffy Lube that actually greases the zerks.Im just saying that im already going above and beyond what most people do for a Subaru's maintenance, on a far cheaper vehicle.So why make me worry.But I do appreciate the advice.