Underglow Kit


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MustGoFaster

New Member
Finally gonna take a crack at the underglow kit that the wifey got me for Christmas, LoL. Workin' 65 hours a week doesn't leave me as much time as I'd like for such things, but that planets have aligned and tonight I'ma dooo eeet! (Hopefully)

Anyways, the instructions call for placing both leads on the battery. Now, I've heard from a few people I know as well as having read on previous threads that it's better just to ground the negative instead of hooking it to the battery, as this can drain it.

I'm not concerned about leaving the lights on while the bike is parked, so hooking it to the battery is fine. Also, was it ever determined how many mA's the switch has to be for LED's if I want to hook it up later to the dummy switch on the clutch side console? I was reading some of the previous threads on the matter it didn't seem like a conclusion was reached. Just fishin' for info, if anyone's got any to spare. :thumbup:
 
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Neme

New Member
Did you ever hook up the LEDs to a switch in the "dummy"? I'm debating doing it, how did it work out for you? I don't know if you can get a high enough Amperage switch that is small enough to fit in the dummy.
 
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Neme

New Member
What is a remote switch? I've searched I would need a relay in order for the 3A SPST switch to work with LEDs. But then again LEDs don't draw much. I don't know how much mine are going to be drawing.
 
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Rabbitman109

Lumen Junkie
Elite Member
Neme said:
What is a remote switch? I've searched I would need a relay in order for the 3A SPST switch to work with LEDs. But then again LEDs don't draw much. I don't know how much mine are going to be drawing.
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A switch that is wired in on a separate leg than the main circuit. Usually installed in the + line. Any 2-way toggle or push button would work. You don't need a relay, unless you don't want them to be able to be on until you turn the bike on. You should have the + line fused, but that doesn't have to be much. Oznium has a good tool to calculate the size fuse you would need.
 
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Neme

New Member
So if I'm understanding you correctly, I can use any Amperage switch as long as it is a remote switch and not directly in line?
 
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Neme

New Member
I could use any switch inline with the positive? It doesn't have to have a certain amperage rating?

I undertand the routing of the wires, switch and fuse I just don't know what rating switch I need. I don't want my bike to burn :(
 
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Neme

New Member
Also, since I installed my flushies the running wires aren't used. I was just going to run them off of this power lead. Is this safe?
 
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Neme

New Member
Woah how bout that. I submitted the reply and it turns out you already answered my question. Thanks! Now back to the switch amp ratings, any switch will do or does it have to be a certain rating?
 
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leem00

Sport touring Member
Elite Member
Neme said:
I could use any switch inline with the positive? It doesn't have to have a certain amperage rating?

I undertand the routing of the wires, switch and fuse I just don't know what rating switch I need. I don't want my bike to burn :(
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more than likey the leds (unless you have 1,000's if them) wouldn't draw enough to over power the switch unlike a halogen bulb.
 
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Neme

New Member
I'm thinking maybe 100 TOPS. I don't want to be seen from space. But, that would be cool wouldn't it.. hmmm. Ideas.


Should I tap into both sides running lights on the front or is just one side OK?
 
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Rabbitman109

Lumen Junkie
Elite Member
Neme said:
I could use any switch inline with the positive? It doesn't have to have a certain amperage rating?

I undertand the routing of the wires, switch and fuse I just don't know what rating switch I need. I don't want my bike to burn :(
Click to expand...
No, that is what the fuse is about. If the circuit is overloaded, the fuse would blow. That is why you want to make sure that the fuse is correct.
 
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leem00

Sport touring Member
Elite Member
Neme said:
I'm thinking maybe 100 TOPS. I don't want to be seen from space. But, that would be cool wouldn't it.. hmmm. Ideas.

Should I tap into both sides running lights on the front or is just one side OK?
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My plan was tpms on one side and the leds on the other. Keep in mind I am no wiring expert but have had some experience doing it.
 
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leem00

Sport touring Member
Elite Member
Rabbitman109 said:
No, that is what the fuse is about. If the circuit is overloaded, the fuse would blow. That is why you want to make sure that the fuse is correct.
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its bad when you put a 15 amp switch on a 20 amp fused set of fog lights though!
 
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Rabbitman109

Lumen Junkie
Elite Member
Neme said:
Should I tap into both sides running lights on the front or is just one side OK?
Click to expand...

One is fine, you are just getting +. And like Leemo said, LED's draw such a small amount that it isn't going to be an issue. I would go off the turn signals, that would give you the "ignition" power if that is what you want.

Tapping into the headlight would require the bike to be started for the circuit to be able to be activated.
 
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Neme

New Member
Alright thanks guys! I'll take a trip to radio shack and explain the situation to him. Put my trust in the geek and let him pick me a switch and fuse that would work.

Wait, do I need a fuse or is the running light leads already fused?
 
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Rabbitman109

Lumen Junkie
Elite Member
Neme said:
Alright thanks guys! I'll take a trip to radio shack and explain the situation to him. Put my trust in the geek and let him pick me a switch and fuse that would work.

Wait, do I need a fuse or is the running light leads already fused?
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The turn signals are already fused. Adding an additional fuse to your LED wiring would be redundant....but it isn't necessarily a bad thing...
 

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Neme

New Member
Alright thanks for all your help. I plan on running my LEDs off one side running lamp and connecting my Angel/Devil eyes to the other side when I get my HID.

Thanks for all the help guys, I really appreciate it!
 
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