Synthetic vs. Standard


cbzdel

cbzdel

New Member
Ah the great debate haha!

I am ready to change my oil again, and I am stuck between regular or synthetic, and if synthetic should it be the read deal AMSOIL or like Mobile1?

Whats everyone using, and if you made the switch did you notice a difference?
 
S

Stricken

New Member
oh no you didnt...
 
cbzdel

cbzdel

New Member
F

Funkmaxtor

New Member
AMSOIL!'

I love that stuff. reduces the clunkiness of the transmission, slightly better fuel mileage and.... well its just good stuff!

I run Amsoil in everything motorized that I own.
 
K

KADO

New Member
I love AMSOIL as well, I run it in my truck and I am going to run it in the FZ6R as well when it comes time for a oil change. That stuff is just awesome!
 
W

WIyamirider

New Member
I tried running some Shell Rotella T 5W-40 in my Ninja 250 once. For some reason, the bike didn't seem to like it, so I switched it back to regular dino oil.

Once I get a few more miles on the 6R, I'm going to switch to synthetic and see how it goes. I run synthetic in both my truck and snowmobile (5W-30 and 0W-30 respectively) and wouldn't switch back.

Amsoil makes a good product. I ran many gallons of their Interceptor oil through my 2-stroke snowmobile when I had it. Good quality auto oil is fine to use as well, and may be a little bit cheaper, but probably not by a whole lot, if any.
 
I

itsmejaytee

New Member
slightly off topic... sorry!

I was just wondering the same thing. I hear that full synthetic would be a bad idea if i wasn't using it for track the majority of the time and it could cause clutch slippage at higher temp/higher rpm.

I am currently at about 100 miles and i am debating if i should change the oil now and again at 600. If i do, should i stick with regular or would it be ok to go a semi synthetic? Some say that during break in period, you should use regular to allow everything to seat correctly.

and the off topic part... When i was going about 30mph or so, i accidently downshifted hard instead of upshifting hard (i held the clutch in the entire time) and the mechanics on the inside grinded up baddd. i quickly up shifted after wards and ever since, i think it sounds funny (rattling, slight grinding etc) this is why i want to change the oil asap.

should i take it in to the dealer? if so, what would they do?? I am afraid of them giving me the run around and not doing a damn thing.
 
Y

Yone

New Member
I've never heard anything bad about AMSOIL...can you get it anywhere (Pep Boys? Autozone? Wal-Mart?)?
 
F

FitZ6R

Member
Yone said:
I've never heard anything bad about AMSOIL...can you get it anywhere (Pep Boys? Autozone? Wal-Mart?)?
Click to expand...
It's a multi-level marketing product (join the club, sell it to your friends, neighbors, and coworkers, sign up more people as dealers, etc).

I don't wan't to step in this too deep :surrender: , but on other forums I visit, the biggest AMSOIL enthusiasts just happen to be the guys selling the stuff, if you know what I mean.
 
cbzdel

cbzdel

New Member
G

GoGreen09

New Member
So no one is endorsing Mobile 1 yet...
 
cbzdel

cbzdel

New Member
9

99vengeur

Administrator
Staff member
I've heard good things about Rotella T full synthetic... :don'tknow:
 
O

OTTF

New Member
Mobile 1 in both my bike and cage...has not failed me yet.
 
J

JSP

Super Moderator
I use Rotella T 5w-40 Synthetic. I'm sticking with it.
 
B

BluePill

Member
Comment number 1:

As the Yamaha owners manuals state, don't use any oil labled "CD" or "Energy conserving II" - See p. 7-15 of 2009 FZ6R manual. Additives in these oils can cause clutch problems.

Number 2:

Might want to consider MA oils - Extract below:

Another institute that certifies oils is called the Japanese Automotive Standards Organization, JASO. One wonders why this Japanese organization has an English name. . . In any case, they have two classifications for motorcycles, "MA" and "MB." MA is the one you want. MB is like the API SL category, it's got all those nasty friction reducing chemicals that may scare your clutch into misbehaving. Again, there is an official JASO seal if the oil has been independently tested. The seal is a rectangle; in the upper quarter of the rectangle will be a serial number, and the lower three quarters will just have the letters MA. If the oil manufacturer did their own testing, instead you'll see just words like "Meets or exceeds JASO MA standards."

Number 3:

My WR250R Yamaha dual sport engine gets a serious work out, since I ride it fast on paved and dirt roads. I am usually running between 7000 and 11000 RPM, often at full throttle because it's a small engine. I have tried the following oils to see if there was any difference in engine noise, clutch action, or transmission smoothness:

Penzoil, Mobil 1 "4T" synthetic, Valvoline M/C "MA" rated, Maxima Maxim 4 stroke - all 10W-40 weight. I found no difference between them.

At this point I am planning to stick with the Valvoline because it's below $4 per quart, available locally, and is MA rated. I do change oil every 1500-2000 miles, so I'm sure it will do fine.
 

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