Sprocket Brands


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Fizzi6ergal

New Member
Yes, it's that time of the season to start getting my bike up and running for the summer. I was looking to get new chain and sprockets as mine have 15,500 miles on them. My question is, what brand have most people gone with for their second set of sprockets? I wanted to go Renthal, but they dont even list our bike in their selection. So here I am wanting good sprockets and not finding any. Would love feedback on what you guys threw on your beasts.
 
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Marthy

World Most Bad A$$ 6R
Elite Member
Fizzi6ergal said:
Yes, it's that time of the season to start getting my bike up and running for the summer. I was looking to get new chain and sprockets as mine have 15,500 miles on them. My question is, what brand have most people gone with for their second set of sprockets? I wanted to go Renthal, but they dont even list our bike in their selection. So here I am wanting good sprockets and not finding any. Would love feedback on what you guys threw on your beasts.
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Driven. Check out SoloMotoParts.com - Motorcycle Parts, Accessories and Gear Tyler always make us some great deals.
 
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DragonBlu

Member
I also went with the Driven. Quality parts at good prices and like Martin says SOLOMOTO is great.
 
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Fizzi6ergal

New Member
I found JT Sprockets that offer a variety of sizes for our bike, I work at a bike shop and was wondering what type of brand people went with. I can get my employee pricing on JT, and that's what I was kind of looking for. I tried calling Renthal to see if they had anything in the future production for our bike, but I kept getting a voicemail(horrible service boo!).
 
M

Marthy

World Most Bad A$$ 6R
Elite Member
Fizzi6ergal said:
I found JT Sprockets that offer a variety of sizes for our bike, I work at a bike shop and was wondering what type of brand people went with. I can get my employee pricing on JT, and that's what I was kind of looking for. I tried calling Renthal to see if they had anything in the future production for our bike, but I kept getting a voicemail(horrible service boo!).
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I'll stay away from alloy sprocket. 10K max if you're stock, 5K max on my ride. Driven has a sweet light weight rear sprocket in black 46T and 17T front.
 
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Fizzi6ergal

New Member
I think I saw JT offer steel sprockets. I at least know the countershaft sprocket would be a steeley. You would think that since the FZ6R is becoming more of a popular bike that the aftermarket vendors would make more aftermarket engine goodies for them.
 
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CrazyCawi

New Member
Keep in mind you want a higher end EK MVXZ, RK GXW, or EK ZZZ chains because chains are not something you want to mess around with. One of them bad boys snaps off and you run the risk of wrecking a lot of things including sometimes, even yourself. They make lightweight steel sprocket kits.

driven sprockets(Cheap too)
FZ6R - Indysuperbikes

Plus if you call in they will usually give you a 10-15% discount or free shipping, depends on who you talk to.


here is some good reading as well before you make your purchase:

Many racers swear by select brands, but the fact remains that all our alum rear sprockets are made out of the same grade aluminum and ALL are hard anodized. We won't sell a sprocket if it's not hard anodized as hard anodizing nearly doubles the life of the sprocket for only a few dollars more. Most all good aftermarket 520 setups are nearly as strong (some are stronger) then stock 530 setups. The 520 setups are also cheaper so that's another plus. What many people forget when buying is that sprockets normally wear out before a chain if it's properly maintained. All of are sprockets are hard anodized and made from top grade aluminum and all of our chains are the top chains from each manufacturer. If you want a cheaper kit that will not last as long or isn't as safe then our kits aren't for you. One thing about maintenance you must know that over tightening a chain will cause VERY quick failure of the sprockets and chain on ANY setup. If you set the chain too loose it will "slap" the sprocket as you take off and the slapping can cause a crack between the teeth of the rear sprocket or can widen the teeth and cause problems. Set your chain slack to oem standards! We can't stress this enough.. That is the most important factor for keeping a setup around a long time. Also lubing the chain at regular intervals.

Since the chain setup is out of the way lets move on to sprockets. Stock sprockets are mostly all steel. This is a very heavy metal, but it lasts a long time. Most aftermarket sprockets are made out of aluminum (now you can get aftermarket rear sprockets in lightweight steel, this started in 2010). An alum sprocket won't last nearly as long as a steel sprocket. However, they came up with a procedure called hard anodizing which makes the sprocket much harder. This process in all makers turns the sprocket into a black or dark grey color. If your sprocket isn't that color you can forget your sprocket being hard anodized. Hard anodizing is said to double the life of an alum sprocket and make it last close to as long as steel if it's properly taken care of. Now there are even steel sprockets in 520 that are lighter then most others. Such as the Driven, Vortex, or Stealth superlight steel chain kits. These sprockets are about one pound heavier then a hard anodized alum chain kit like the Driven, but they will last longer as they have a steel rear sprocket. With these there truly is no reason everyone can't do the 520 conversion now. We would recommend one of these steel 520 chain kits over a hard anodized alum 530 chain kit any day of the week. They will be less weight AND last longer then a 530 with a hard anodized alum rear sprocket. These are not for everyone, but if you want a chain kit to last a long time then these are the kits for you.

Now to gearing. You often here of -1 or +2 or -1/+2. Well if you hear - numbers it normally means going down a tooth in the front sprocket. This gives you more acceleration out of your bike (feels like more torque and it's noticeable), but on the downside you will lose roughly 10mph of top speed in 6th. So if you went 185 mph you'll probably only go 175 now. before getting into redline or wherever you were before in the rpms. When people talk about + numbers its normally talking about the rear sprocket as this also increases acceleration. The most common setup (especially for 1000cc bikes) is +2 in the rear. This gives you a noticeable gain in acceleration with a loss of about 7mph on the top end. You can also combine the two and run -1 in front and +2 in the rear (a -1/+2 setup) this will give you crazy acceleration, but you'll lose 15-20mph on the top end. it's great for stunters or drag racers. Going down 1 tooth in the front is equal to going up about 3 teeth in the rear. So if you do +2 in the rear it's a little bit less drastic of a change then -1 in the front.

If you rarely do top end pulls and want acceleration i would recommend going -1 in front. If you want the both of best worlds you'll have to compromise, but +2 in the rear is the favorite setup. Only do both if you have experience with gearing or want to have crazy acceleration and rarely do top speed pulls. Also note that if you go -1/+2 at the same time even going down the freeway your rpms will be noticeably higher, this can slightly eat into gas mileage.

Many people ask if they should get a rivet master link or a clip on. The master link is the link YOU connect to connect both ends of the chain and link them into one chain that wraps around the sprockets. Many people say that clip on links are fine, but many have also had them come off and this can become a major problem resulting in a destroyed engine, foot, or even a crash. The rivet links are much stronger and safer so I HIGHLY recommend using that. saving 50 dollars to have your dealer rivet the chain together is nothing compared to what often happens if a chain comes apart while riding. You can also buy a chain tool and rivet the chain together yourself. I recommend the motionpro rivet/chain breaker kit, but any will work. Feel free to search the net on instructions on how to rivet.

Some people ask about if going +2 teeth or what not in the rear will move the rear wheel back too far. Well you should always replace the chain and sprockets together unless you have very low miles on the setup. You see the chain and sprockets wear out together and in a way "form" to each other. Anyway, when you put the new chain on you can add links or take links away to make the chain as long or short as you want it. This lets YOU decide how far back or forward you want the rear tire. Remember you can ALWAYS take more links off so don't overdo it. It's best to take not enough links off the chain then too many.

MPH: Yes when you go down in the front or up in the rear your speedometer willl be off. Normally it will be higher then you are actually going. Many people don't mind this, but some do especially because it racks up miles about 5-15% quicker. The solution is to buy a SpeedoDRD which will correct the error. This is a plug in unit and easy to install.



Tips:
1: If you can't figure out which way the front sprocket goes in ASK SOMEONE. Don't guess as you can put it on backwards and wreck the setup.
2: If you haven't riveted something before then have someone help you or make sure you know what you're doing.
3: Set your chain slack to your oem specs or you will destroy a chain kit damn fast.
4: If you change your gearing your speedometer will probably be thrown off a bit.
5: Set your chain to the proper chain slack at the tightest spot, rotate the rear tire as you check and check it in different spots of the chain. Don't assume the first spot you check is the tightest spot in the chain.
6: Maintenance is the #1 thing to have a chain kit last a long time. If you go through a chain kit quickly I would look at the installation or maintenance. You can buy the strongest chain kit in the world, but if it's not taken care of it won't last as long as the worst chain kit on the market.
7: My chain or sprockets didn't last long? why? Read #6 as it's the most important issue in getting all the miles you can out of your chain kit.
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Fizzi6ergal

New Member
Yeah, I saw vortex. I'm looking for some steel sprockets though. I might get PBI cause I can get my employee pricing on them. I was actually going to go with an EK chain. I know they make a pink chain and I was looking into getting that one. :).
 
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JonKerr

Senior Member
Elite Member
Driven are great!!!! I've used them exclusively since I changed the stock ones. They're drilled out so they're considerably lighter than stock without going for the short life alloy. Plus the black on my black bike is pretty sick looking.

And CC makes a huge point. The chain is the most important part of the equation. Do not skimp on your chain. High end, oring chains are the only way to go. I just put a new set of sprockets and a chain on. Most will say to change both sprockets and your chain at the same time. And that is the safest thing to do. I've been able to easily get 2 chains now from a set of Driven lightened steel sprockets.
 
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06330i

New Member
I've been trying to find a yellow chain for mine, but have had an issue finding one. Are you going to stick with a 530 chain or convert to a 520? I get so many mixed reviews on both of them. Some people stick by the heavier duty 530 and some swear by a 520.
 
J

JonKerr

Senior Member
Elite Member
The stock chain on the bike is a 520. They don't come with a 530.
 
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yellowfz

Tensile strength is the key, the higher the better when it comes to chain life.
Well that and maintenance (lubing).
For what it's worth SunStar and DID, best combo, with highest tensile strength.
 
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