Shifting issue

[jarshie]

Has anyone ever ran into a problem where the Trans will stick into the upper gears? I have a rareish intermediate problem where i will downshift through the gears (while decelerating), but it will get stuck in the top 3gears. Will shift up and down fine, but just won't drop below 3rd. Typically can get it to finally drop from clutching a couple times and letting the bike slowly off the clutch to kinda re-enter the gear

Another thing (first time this has happened)... couldn't get the neutral light to turn on after attempting a third gear start from the problem above (obviously stalled it)... tried clutching it a couple of times, upshifting, down shifting, nothing was working so tried to start it and it started fine. Down shifted, then up shifted and then neutral light came on...

Pretty puzzled by both issues, about to take it to the dealership, as its under warranty, but figured I'd check here first

2013 fz6r with 1200 miles on it. yamalube 10w40 and filter changed at 600 miles

 

[SixRFixR]

I've never heard of this issue. Just make sure big boots aren't preventing the shift lever from returning to its mid position between shifts.

 

[98Deathmage]

2013 fz6r with 1200 miles on it. yamalube 10w40 and filter changed at 600 miles

Maybe replace the oil once more? Send the old oil you have in the engine right now to a lab for them to see if something is wrong with the oil. Personally, i would switch to Mobil 1 4T Race oil. Mobil 1 is imho better than Yamalube.

My transmission gets clunkier the closer i got to 3k miles per change. Also make sure your coolant temp gauge reaches above 210F for a while so contaminants burn from the oil.

Mobil 1 Racing 4T Oil:
Mobil1 Racing 4T 10W-40 4-Cycle Motorcycle Oil (1 Quart) 103436: Shop the best Motorcycle Oil at Advance Auto Parts

 

[jarshie]

I've never heard of this issue. Just make sure big boots aren't preventing the shift lever from returning to its mid position between shifts.

hmm, did not think of that. unfortunately i have had this happen with both my riding boots and regular low cut sneakers.

 

[Scott_Thomas]

Yeah, that's an odd one for 6r which is nearly bulletproof. Is it under warranty?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

 

[jarshie]

Maybe replace the oil once more? Send the old oil you have in the engine right now to a lab for them to see if something is wrong with the oil. Personally, i would switch to Mobil 1 4T Race oil. Mobil 1 is imho better than Yamalube.

My transmission gets clunkier the closer i got to 3k miles per change. Also make sure your coolant temp gauge reaches above 210F for a while so contaminants burn from the oil.

Mobil 1 Racing 4T Oil:
Mobil1 Racing 4T 10W-40 4-Cycle Motorcycle Oil (1 Quart) 103436: Shop the best Motorcycle Oil at Advance Auto Parts

i think it may be the yamalube oil as well. despite it starting to get hot outside, my bike typically keeps it below 210 (and the shifting issues typically happen when its colder out). so very well could be just the oil

i believe mobil1 would def be a better oil than yamalube. another reinforcement is that i personally know a guy (owner of prayoonto racing) that uses mobil 1 in all of his drag hondas.. he is known for being very particular and doing a ton of R&D into anything that goes into his cars.

 

[jarshie]

Yeah, that's an odd one for 6r which is nearly bulletproof. Is it under warranty?

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yea, just didn't want to take it to the dealership and then somehow it not be under warranty and i get charged a labor fee for no results

 

[Scott_Thomas]

Like someone else said, make sure your boots aren't preventing shifts. I've had problems with certain shoes/boots. Another good start would be like someone else suggested about changing the oil to a full synthetic. I love Mobil 1 4t Racing 10w/40, but next change am going to switch to Castrol 4t Racing full synthetic. Reviews compare it in quality to the Mobil 1 (some say even better) and it costs about $43/case of 6 quarts vs Mobil 1 $65/case.

 

[bmw675]

Make sure your shift rod isn't loose.

 

[Scott_Thomas]

Make sure your shift rod isn't loose.

Good point, or bent.

 

[98Deathmage]

i think it may be the yamalube oil as well. despite it starting to get hot outside, my bike typically keeps it below 210 (and the shifting issues typically happen when its colder out). so very well could be just the oil

i believe mobil1 would def be a better oil than yamalube. another reinforcement is that i personally know a guy (owner of prayoonto racing) that uses mobil 1 in all of his drag hondas.. he is known for being very particular and doing a ton of R&D into anything that goes into his cars.

The reason why you want to get above 210 is to burn water vapor and other stuff out of the oil. If it doesnt, i read somewhere the oil becomes saturated and this is what can start slug.

Make sure you are pulling your clutch in all the way. Refer to the owners manual for adjustment specs. Place balls of feet on peg once you are done shifting. Might be accidentally shifting or not letting shift lever to original position. Change your oil to either mobil 1 or Castrol. Both have the same "Racing 4T oil" name. Change your oil filter.

Not much else i can suggest without either seeing it or riding it myself.

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[yillbs]

The reason why you want to get above 210 is to burn water vapor and other stuff out of the oil. If it doesnt, i read somewhere the oil becomes saturated and this is what can start slug.

Make sure you are pulling your clutch in all the way. Refer to the owners manual for adjustment specs. Place balls of feet on peg once you are done shifting. Might be accidentally shifting or not letting shift lever to original position. Change your oil to either mobil 1 or Castrol. Both have the same "Racing 4T oil" name. Change your oil filter.

Not much else i can suggest without either seeing it or riding it myself.

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I couldn't get my bike to 210 if I tried. How are you guys doing it

 

[Scott_Thomas]

I couldn't get my bike to 210 if I tried. How are you guys doing it

Mine goes up to 210 every ride. Usually stay in 180's-190's while moving and goes up to about 208-210 while stopped. Not sure why yours wouldn't especially in Texas. From what I've seen and read it's perfectly normal to hit 210ish while at a stop (fan kicks on around 210).

 

[jarshie]

Make sure your shift rod isn't loose.

good point. seems pretty tight (slight left to right wiggle, but thats it). will have someone else check it out though.

was thinking my best place to start is the oil and filter... thanks all for your input!

 

[JT]

I have noticed that if I wait to long to shift down from higher gears and im going way to slow it becomes awkward / difficult to shift down. try shifting down at higher speeds

 

[Rabbitman109]

If you are describing what I think that you are describing, yes, this happened on my FZ6R and on my FZ1. Not sure why it does it but slowly releasing the clutch and letting it "grab" will allow you to switch gears down again. Like JT recommended, slowly down shift as you are slowing down, do not stop and try to go down through all the gears.

 

[yillbs]

If you are describing what I think that you are describing, yes, this happened on my FZ6R and on my FZ1. Not sure why it does it but slowly releasing the clutch and letting it "grab" will allow you to switch gears down again. Like JT recommended, slowly down shift as you are slowing down, do not stop and try to go down through all the gears.

I was wondering if that's what me meant too. You can't be going 10mph on 4th and expect a smooth down shift you have to ether wait until stopped give a little gas and ease of the clutch of down shift at Normal intervals 50mph 40mph 30 ect...

 

[jarshie]

I have noticed that if I wait to long to shift down from higher gears and im going way to slow it becomes awkward / difficult to shift down. try shifting down at higher speeds

If you are describing what I think that you are describing, yes, this happened on my FZ6R and on my FZ1. Not sure why it does it but slowly releasing the clutch and letting it "grab" will allow you to switch gears down again. Like JT recommended, slowly down shift as you are slowing down, do not stop and try to go down through all the gears.

yea, thats always my go to when someone slams on their brakes and i dont have time to downshift while trying to focus on optimal braking (gotta love mid atlantic region drivers)... that and im still relatively new to motorcycles (first one ive ever been on and that was only 3 months ago)

whats funny is the owners manual states exactly the opposite, it recommends going through all the gears at 14mph (quickly learned how fail that was)

 

[Rabbitman109]

yea, thats always my go to when someone slams on their brakes and i dont have time to downshift while trying to focus on optimal braking (gotta love mid atlantic region drivers)... that and im still relatively new to motorcycles (first one ive ever been on and that was only 3 months ago)

whats funny is the owners manual states exactly the opposite, it recommends going through all the gears at 14mph (quickly learned how fail that was)

Yeah, it happens. It sounds like you are just shifting all the way up to sixth gear, try to choose the gear based on speed. Plus, you may want to check your following distance. If you have trouble, you may be too close. Allow extra room if you think that you can't perform the proper shifting techniques.

 

[jarshie]

Yeah, it happens. It sounds like you are just shifting all the way up to sixth gear, try to choose the gear based on speed. Plus, you may want to check your following distance. If you have trouble, you may be too close. Allow extra room if you think that you can't perform the proper shifting techniques.

eh i may have terribly worded my previous statement. im pretty well endowed to finding gear off speed/sound/rpm (only owned manual cars). still working in the use of revmatching to the lower gear while braking (with both hand and foot)