Ripped the thread out of sump

[Lilday]

The bike is a 2010 XJ6N, but I believe that is simply the UK equivalent of the FZ6R.

I've searched and read through a few threads but not found the best solution to this exact problem yet.

So I over-tightened the drain bolt and the thread has ripped out of the sump. The bolt is perfectly fine but the sump is gone, only the last ring of thread is holding the bolt in.

It screws in all the way, and gets a little tight with a wrench but nowhere near the 43nM torque it should be.

So, here are my questions:

- Should I re-tap the sump for a bigger drain bolt?
--------If so, which size should I move up to?

- Should I helicoil the sump?
--------If so, which helicoil kit will fit our bikes?

I have found that the bolt size is M14 thread, with 1.5 pitch. Can anybody confirm this? I'm having trouble finding a reliable source.

Thanks for the help. I've been meaning to join here for a while but only got the bike 2 weeks ago. First oil change and I messed it up haha

 

[Nastybutler]

Typically when this happens I think you have to replace the sump. If you're careful when you remove it you can reuse the gasket. Good luck whichever way you go.

Edit: Here's a link to a new one. It'll run you $82 at my favorite place to buy OEM parts: http://www.stadiumyamaha.com/pages/OemParts?aribrand=YAM#/Yamaha/FZ6R_-_FZ6RZCB_-_2010/OIL_CLEANER/FZ6RZCB_(2010_MOTORCYCLE)/OIL_CLEANER_(FZ6RZCB_-_2010)

 

[JSP]

Replace the sump pan. The last thing you want is oil draining out under your rear tire while riding. Do ot right. Fairly cheap mistake.

 

[Lilday]

Replace the sump pan. The last thing you want is oil draining out under your rear tire while riding. Do ot right. Fairly cheap mistake.

I can't find a new sump pan anywhere and it sounds like it will be triple digits from a dealer.

From what I've read helicoil is actually better than the original thread as you're using steel on steel, instead of crappy soft aluminium.

 

[FastFreddy]

Just pay for a good mechanic to helicoil the sump thread.

It should work out cheaper than buying a helicoil kit, as they already have one.

Replacing the sump looks like a big job on a motorbike, compared to a car.

 

[JSP]

I replaced pan on my r6. Extremey easy. About $140 total. We use Heli coils at work and have seen them back out with the bolt more than once. Time sert would be better than heli coil. But that will run almost as much as a new pan.

 

[JT]

I would try to replace the whole pan. Let us know what you do and how it turns out


Sent from my one and only iPhone 5 using Tapa 2 da talk

 

[buzzbomb]

The bike is a 2010 XJ6N, but I believe that is simply the UK equivalent of the FZ6R.

I've searched and read through a few threads but not found the best solution to this exact problem yet.

So I over-tightened the drain bolt and the thread has ripped out of the sump. The bolt is perfectly fine but the sump is gone, only the last ring of thread is holding the bolt in.

It screws in all the way, and gets a little tight with a wrench but nowhere near the 43nM torque it should be.

So, here are my questions:

- Should I re-tap the sump for a bigger drain bolt?
--------If so, which size should I move up to?

- Should I helicoil the sump?
--------If so, which helicoil kit will fit our bikes?

I have found that the bolt size is M14 thread, with 1.5 pitch. Can anybody confirm this? I'm having trouble finding a reliable source.

Thanks for the help. I've been meaning to join here for a while but only got the bike 2 weeks ago. First oil change and I messed it up haha

The previous posters have given the best advice I can think of. No one asked though: How the heck? Did you cross thread? Did you use a breaker-bar? How on earth did you strip that thing out?

 

[Lilday]

The previous posters have given the best advice I can think of. No one asked though: How the heck? Did you cross thread? Did you use a breaker-bar? How on earth did you strip that thing out?

I over-tightened it...

I replaced the crush washer and so when tightening the bolt up I thought it felt right, but the washer hadn't compressed at all. I gave it a little more and then it slipped and wouldn't tighten as much.

Torque wrench will be a good investment.

I can't source a new oil pan anywhere in the UK...Does the R6 use the same pan?

 

[JSP]

No, different pan. At least the 06+ are.

 

[buzzbomb]

I over-tightened it...

I replaced the crush washer and so when tightening the bolt up I thought it felt right, but the washer hadn't compressed at all. I gave it a little more and then it slipped and wouldn't tighten as much.

Torque wrench will be a good investment.

I can't source a new oil pan anywhere in the UK...Does the R6 use the same pan?

I can't answer your question, but here's an oddity: The Oil Drain Bolt has a simple washer. it's torqued to not much over hand tightening. Just screw it in with the hand and snug it down with a tool. It shouldn't have a "split" washer. Just a washer.

 

[geekmaster]

Actually, last week, when I asked for the washer at the Yamaha dealer, they gave me a "split" (horizontally) crush washer, which is typical for oil drain bolts. I've seen some newer crush washers that are not split, but just made of soft metal. But, the split washer is perfectly fine, and should be replaced at every oil change.

 

[buzzbomb]

Actually, last week, when I asked for the washer at the Yamaha dealer, they gave me a "split" (horizontally) crush washer, which is typical for oil drain bolts. I've seen some newer crush washers that are not split, but just made of soft metal. But, the split washer is perfectly fine, and should be replaced at every oil change.

That's interesting. I just changed the oil on my bike, for the fourth time. The washer is not split. It's just a washer. A washer on the oil plug should help stop the oil from leaking out. It kind of makes sense that it's not split.

A split washer is intended to form a "lock" between the bolt and body. It helps stop a bolt from backing out, as the split edges dig in to the bolt and body.

A split washer certainly doesn't form a seal. Odd.

What is a horizontally split washer? Do you mean it's basically cut in half edge to edge? I could see that and see how it would be effective. Is that what you mean?

 

[geekmaster]

Yeah, you're right ... it's not really what is officially called a "split" washer. Here's a picture of a BMW oil drain "crush" washer, which is very similar to the Yamaha one, except the Yamaha one is not copper. Sorry it's not a very sharp picture, but you can see the "slit" around the edge. It really has two separate surfaces which crush together.

Also, here's a link to a Yamaha one, which you can zoom into a bit:

Gasket, Drain Plug Washer

Once you use one of these washers (Yamaha calls them gaskets in the service manual), they get crushed flat, and may look like a regular flat washer, so if you haven't changed it in awhile, it would be a good idea - less than a buck, which is cheap insurance.

 

[buzzbomb]

Yeah, you're right ... it's not really what is officially called a "split" washer. Here's a picture of a BMW oil drain "crush" washer, which is very similar to the Yamaha one, except the Yamaha one is not copper. Sorry it's not a very sharp picture, but you can see the "slit" around the edge. It really has two separate surfaces which crush together.

Also, here's a link to a Yamaha one, which you can zoom into a bit:

Gasket, Drain Plug Washer

Once you use one of these washers (Yamaha calls them gaskets in the service manual), they get crushed flat, and may look like a regular flat washer, so if you haven't changed it in awhile, it would be a good idea - less than a buck, which is cheap insurance.

Yep. Need me one of those. I thought it was just a flat washer. "Crushed" is a good description of how it looks now. Or, erm, "flat." LOL

You're right, for the cost there's no reason not to replace it.

 

[Lilday]

So I got a friend to helicoil the pan and fit a new bolt.

The new bolt is in 2 pieces Kinda like this:
http://www.greddy.com/upload/img/16400713_a.jpg

So the main bolt stays in, and there is a smaller hex bolt which goes into that.

Steel bolt in steel thread so I won't strip it again haha and even if I did, the bolt can be replaced without damaging the second thread...

So to explain a little better, only the center of the bolt comes out to drain the oil.