Rear brake.

[alaskanflyboy]

As "dart1963" said, and make sure and put some lithium soap based grease (the "S" in the diagram) on the pad rods/pins or dielectric grease, which you can get at any automotive store, don't use axle grease.

For grease: S is Silicone, LS is Lithium-Soap, M is Molybdenum Disulfide, and B is Wheel Bearing.

 

[yellowfz]

For grease: S is Silicone, LS is Lithium-Soap, M is Molybdenum Disulfide, and B is Wheel Bearing.

Thanks didn't have the legend at hand just saw in the diagram above that it recommended Lithium Soap based grease and did not look to see if that was correct, but the "S" was a reference to the spot not the actual type of grease, I wouldn't use silicone make sure it is silicone grease, all it is for is to make sure the pin/rod slides through the rubber seal without tearing. The pads does not fit tightly against the pin/rod it is just a guide for the pads the clips/springs are what hold the pads lightly in place takes up the slack and keeps them from chattering.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_soap
If you notice I said use dielectric grease as the best solution which a good grease for exposed surfaces and rubber seals.

 

[yellowfz]

Hydraulic disc brakes always self adjust without adjustment of the lever or the pedal. This applies not only to motorcycles, but to all hydraulic disc brake systems. You do not need to add fluid as your brakes wear to keep the pedal (lever) travel the same.

If the pedal or lever travel increases because of pad wear and reduced fluid level, then you've got air in the lines.

Sent from Samsung Galaxy S4

Not true, to some extent it will keep the same travel but at larger wear cycles it will cause a slight travel increase. Air will cause a no brake feel until pumped, pumping increases the feel
of pressure, that's how you know you have air in the line.

 

[blkbrd]

Not true, to some extent it will keep the same travel but at larger wear cycles it will cause a slight travel increase. Air will cause a no brake feel until pumped, pumping increases the feel
of pressure, that's how you know you have air in the line.

We'll have to agree to disagree on this. ☺

Think of your master cylinder on your bike right now, except that is 6 inches tall. Whether you have 1/4 inch or 6 inches of fluid above the piston in the master cylinder does not make a difference in the amount of fluid in the system driving the piston in the caliper. Performance is not affected, and neither is lever travel.

Now let's say that you've just changed your brake pads. You then learn that another company makes better pads and you decide you want those. You get them and while changing them notice they are only 6mm thick and the ones you're removing are 8mm thick. You put them in, pump the brakes a couple times to bring the piston to these thinner pads and you're done. It makes absolutely no difference in the performance of the system provided that there is some fluid above the piston in the master cylinder to prevent air from getting in.

Sent from Samsung Galaxy S4

 

[alaskanflyboy]

The diagram actually calls for silicone grease, hence the grease gun emblem with the "S" in the middle of it pointing toward the guide pins. So you are correct in recommending dielectric grease which every brand I've used has been silicone based.

The only real difference in the 1/4 inch and the 6 inch tall reservoir is that the 6 inch will have a greater head of pressure than the 1/4 inch. But, for a brake pump, it doesn't really affect much since the compensator port closes when you actuate it; the reservoir isn't supplying a head of pressure to a pump. The main use of the reservoir is to serve as an expansion tank as the brake fluid heats up (from use or ambient temperature change), ensure there's enough fluid to fill the system as the pads and rotors wear, and to be able to check fluid levels.

Brake pedal/lever travel should remain the same as the pads wear. We're dealing with a hydraulic system that keeps itself filled as long as the reservoir has fluid in it. As the pads wear, the piston moves out to compensate and the system fills with more fluid from the reservoir to fill the space. It's always the same volume of fluid moved the same distance each time. If lever/pedal travel is changing significantly, you're getting air in the lines requiring you to compress it before the brake fluid is acted upon.

As for earlier talk of return springs, the piston seal acts as one in this type of brake system.

 

[jon.sagrero7]

Looks like everything is in place correctly, a disc will get discolored after a few hard stops and take a few normal stops to go back to the silver color.
If you get up to 30mph and pull the clutch in does the bike feel as if it is stopping on its own, when I say stopping on its own I mean you can feel a noticeable drag on the forward motion.
Did you get the clips in right on the top of the pads on the caliper body and on the side?
It is pretty straight forward, if the pads can slide on the rods and in the slots in the caliper they should work correctly, I have had a caliper piston stick on a caliper once but that is rare, these brakes are so simple that it is hard to mess something up. If you compress the caliper piston does it extend again without problem?
In the diagram they do call the clips #6 "springs", but they are for keeping the pads in place and not for pulling them away from the disc.

By clips what are you referencing to? Are the metal attachments that attach to the outside of the brake pad itself? And yes the caliper piston extends and compresses with no problem. And as far as how my riding has been so far it seems my brake pads are wearing in with no problem. Ive been riding everyday and not using much of my rear brake much and ive noticed that its not hard at all really to push my bike backwards as it once was. Although there still is some squeaking when pushing the bike backwards. And also there is no red glow when i brake or after i check my disc once im done riding.

 

[jon.sagrero7]

chain to tight?

not at all its perfect slack.

 

[jon.sagrero7]

I agree with dart. Those slide pins mean everything when it comes to the brake releasing. If they're not smooth and clean, they'll cause you problems.

As far as adjustment of the pedal as the brakes wear, I don't get that. The brake fluid should take up that extra travel.

Sent from Samsung Galaxy S4

Is Sil-Glyde alright to put on? I wouldnt say its grease based but more of a gel.

 

[jon.sagrero7]

The diagram actually calls for silicone grease, hence the grease gun emblem with the "S" in the middle of it pointing toward the guide pins. So you are correct in recommending dielectric grease which every brand I've used has been silicone based.

The only real difference in the 1/4 inch and the 6 inch tall reservoir is that the 6 inch will have a greater head of pressure than the 1/4 inch. But, for a brake pump, it doesn't really affect much since the compensator port closes when you actuate it; the reservoir isn't supplying a head of pressure to a pump. The main use of the reservoir is to serve as an expansion tank as the brake fluid heats up (from use or ambient temperature change), ensure there's enough fluid to fill the system as the pads and rotors wear, and to be able to check fluid levels.

Brake pedal/lever travel should remain the same as the pads wear. We're dealing with a hydraulic system that keeps itself filled as long as the reservoir has fluid in it. As the pads wear, the piston moves out to compensate and the system fills with more fluid from the reservoir to fill the space. It's always the same volume of fluid moved the same distance each time. If lever/pedal travel is changing significantly, you're getting air in the lines requiring you to compress it before the brake fluid is acted upon.

As for earlier talk of return springs, the piston seal acts as one in this type of brake system.

So if the piston seal acts as a return spring, should i take out the piston itself and give it a clean? i didnt want to do that because i didnt want to damage anything with the piston itself and didnt know if i could take out the piston without damaging it? Since you bring it up maybe my piston might have some gunk on it not allowing to retract as much as it should be? just a thought.

 

[blkbrd]

Is Sil-Glyde alright to put on? I wouldnt say its grease based but more of a gel.

Yes, that's perfect.

Sent from Samsung Galaxy S4

 

[alaskanflyboy]

So if the piston seal acts as a return spring, should i take out the piston itself and give it a clean? i didnt want to do that because i didnt want to damage anything with the piston itself and didnt know if i could take out the piston without damaging it? Since you bring it up maybe my piston might have some gunk on it not allowing to retract as much as it should be? just a thought.

I wouldn't take the caliper apart unless you had more reason to suspect; rebuilding a caliper can be a PITA. If the piston is moving, the seal is working fine. Unless you have great eyesight, you'd need a feeler gauge to tell if the pads are backing off the rotor when you release the brake.

Now does the brake feel like it lets off at all when you release the brake? Another thing to look at, if you have a feeler gauge, is to see if both sides are contacting the rotor or just one side. That could give us more of an idea of what's going on.