PCV and the O2 Sensor


Marthy

World Most Bad A$$ 6R
Elite Member
Y

yellowfz

The 6R here in the US doesn't have a O2 sensor. But from working on the FZ8 and FZ-09 the narrow band sensor will over ride the PCV in cruising range. So basically it will work fine with or without it. If you do the DIY kit your O2 sensor stays in place. Disconnecting it will put the ECU in safe mode and the PCV will do it's things. If MPG is your biggest concern, keep the O2 sensor in place. If not disconnect it.
What manner of O2 sensors does Yamaha use? A Narrowband O2 sensor that works at higher RPMs. :eek: Overrides the PCV?:eek:
Safe mode? MIL (malfunction indicator light) light (engine light)?
Please explain!
 

Marthy

World Most Bad A$$ 6R
Elite Member
Y

yellowfz

As example, on the 09 the O2 sensor keep the AFR at a solid 14.7 under 5K and about 15% throttle. Doesn't matter how much fuel you try to add... the O2 sensor will trim it back down to 14.7AFR. That's call close loop programming. Pass that the ECU is in open loop and the AFR can be adjust with a PCV or any other fuel controller.

Any sensor that goes in default have set "safe values" so it don't blow shit up. So if your O2 sensor don't work... it goes in open loop with some safe fuel trim. On the 09 it keep AFR at 13.5:1. It goes from 14.7 and takes 15 second at steady throttle to go in safe mode at 13.5

And for some reason, engine light doesn't come on if you disconnect the O2 sensor.
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Wow 13.5 is rich.
If you use a LC-2 and trick the bike ECU into thinking there is still a O2 sensor and then use the PCV to adjust the WOT section that would be wild, get the best of both worlds, use the original bung for O2 and pass inspection too.

Closed Loop -- uses O2 sensor for fueling
Open Loop -- use MAP for fueling

That's good no MIL comes on.
 

Marthy

World Most Bad A$$ 6R
Elite Member

NUISANCE

Member
So, Marthy, I just installed a autotuner and got the map from the PC website. They have my AFR at 13 at WOT and cruising is like 13.5. Should I make some changes to that?
 

Marthy

World Most Bad A$$ 6R
Elite Member

NUISANCE

Member
Ceramic coated R6 header with a GYTR, K&N, modded air box and fresh plugs. I figured 13.0 at WOT was a way rich though. Let me pull the actual map tomorrow so you can take a look, should help other members too if they go with an auto tuner.
 
Y

yellowfz

13.5 is where to HP is. We tried to offset the sensor on the 09... those Jap engineers are a bit too smart. Didn't work so sort of give up. I can add fuel on decel (was 22AFR) so the throttle is a bit more smooth getting back on it. So the bike run 13.2 to 13.5 AFR on accel and WOT with good dyno numbers. (Did double check to make sure the Auto tune wasn't off) and it run at 14.7 in cruising for good MPG. Good compromise. Clock 47 MPG last time I did a good freeway ride.

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So you tried to use the Autotune cable and send the signals to the stock narrowband harness and it would not read them?
I am sure the Autotune is just like a LC-2 in that it takes the wideband's raw data and converts it into voltage readings, it has been figured out how to use a wideband in a narrowband bung and tune with the wideband and still satisfy the ECU with narrowband data.
When tuning with the PCV you are again in closed loop with the PCV and the ECU as long as the narrowband is still in is doing the closed loop at idle, part throttle and cruise, when you go WOT it drops out of the closed loop and goes into open loop and that is where the PCV MAP is at but yet the PCV is in closed loop as long as a Autotune is hooked up, if no Autotune then it is open loop MAP only.
Basically doing what you are but with using the one bung.
If you tie off the narrowband plugged in it will still try and switch to maintain 14.7 in free air which is 20.1.
 

ST3RL0

New Member
Quick question, what is the pitch of the stock O2 sensor thread? I know it's 10mm wide

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Y

yellowfz

Y

yellowfz

13.5 is where to HP is. We tried to offset the sensor on the 09... those Jap engineers are a bit too smart. Didn't work so sort of give up. I can add fuel on decel (was 22AFR) so the throttle is a bit more smooth getting back on it. So the bike run 13.2 to 13.5 AFR on accel and WOT with good dyno numbers. (Did double check to make sure the Auto tune wasn't off) and it run at 14.7 in cruising for good MPG. Good compromise. Clock 47 MPG last time I did a good freeway ride.

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Can you post up those Dyno numbers/sheets so we can all see the results, I always hear the Dyno shows this and that but never see any Dyno sheets to prove it, FZ-09, FZ-08.
I know I keep all my Dyno sheets on everything and have no problem showing results.

Thanks in advance.
 

Marthy

World Most Bad A$$ 6R
Elite Member
Y

yellowfz

Sure! First run was the stock exhaust base line and the second one is my exhaust and EJK tuner. I don't have the FZ8 one since it wasn't ky own bike I didn't keep track of those... but Google is your friend.



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Wow, not much increase if I am reading it right (bottom part of slip is cut off or folded under).

Thanks for the numbers.
 

Marthy

World Most Bad A$$ 6R
Elite Member

Y

yellowfz

Trolling around, looking for facts is trolling then I guess there are millions of trolls then. :eek:
I just want to dispel the myths that float around the web about all the lean conditions and power that is gained.
Am not targeting you in any sense or your products. :surrender:
Excuse me for being practical and honest and not propping up fallacies for the naive.

I tune automobiles for a living, when someone comes in and wants to tune a stock engine with just air and exhaust mods, I tell them I will but don't expect huge gains, and that the software is intended for major tuning such as cam installs and or boost, it can enhance a stock engine but 10 to 20 hp is all (gas) (diesel 100hp or more), I loose a lot of customers cause I don't sugar coat the fictions, but I would rather sleep at night knowing I told the truth than make a buck off a sucker.

Thank you for being honest and truthful Marthy, I respect that, but a troll I am not. :D
 


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