Cracked my oil pan when trying to ensure the drain bolt was at 31 ft/lb... googled and saw that apparently many people on this forum have had the same fate. Called Yamaha and they indicated that I needed to take it to an authorized dealer. Called my local dealer and he told me to bring it in. My question is has anyone gotten a replacement oil pan through yamaha due to the owners manual having the spec way in the realm of the ridiculous? I had the oil change done and had the drain bolt a 1/2 turn past hand tight and it was good. Tried to torque it to spec while i was buttoning up and thats when it happened.. ugh
Oil pan is cracked ... now what?
- Thread starter karim18
- Start date
Personally, I've never used a torque wrench to do a oil change on any vehicle. My father always told me to tighten oil filters and oil plugs just tight enough so they don't leak. Oil filter was always 1/8 to 1/4 turn after hand tight. As far as oil plug, I always tried to match the torque I used to remove it. Then fill the crankcase, start engine, check for leaks, if none, you're done.
Sorry, but you won't get a free pan out of it. You just over tightened it; but don't feel bad, it can happen to anyone.
I can't remember what the setup is like on the 6r anymore, but usually replacing the oil pan is not that big of a job. You can usually do it yourself easily, just don't over tighten the bolts.
I can't remember what the setup is like on the 6r anymore, but usually replacing the oil pan is not that big of a job. You can usually do it yourself easily, just don't over tighten the bolts.
yillbs
New Member
for what it's worth. If you fight it hard enough, you can get a replacement. If specs say to tighten it that tight, and you did, and it cracked, then not really your fault. just say it's a defective oil pan, and your pissed off. depends on how much you wanna fight it
Same here too.
Sorry Karim. I don't think you have much of a chance convincing Yamaha it's their fault. A half turn past hand tight might have already been too tight. It's just too easy to go a bit further after the wrench clicks. Did you use a new crush washer? I trust my arm torque wrench on steel. Not so much on aluminum. I use a torque wrench. On filters I was taught 3/4 to 1 turn past gasket contact. I still use a torque wrench on the bike's filter.
Replace the pan yourself and sneak up on those torque settings.
Replace the pan yourself and sneak up on those torque settings.
Yes... Dad's advice has served me well.
The only vehicle that required a "scary amount of torque" on the oil plug to keep from leaking was this 1993 Honda Del Sol. It belonged to a girlfriend I was dating at the time. I had to crawl under that thing three times before the drain plug would stop leaking and use an excessive amount of torque. That was the last time I changed her oil and told her to take it to a shop for the next oil change. That was one car that always had me scratching my head???
I use a torque wrench as well. However, whenever I'm dealing with a bolt that has a "hard stop" like the oil pan bolt, I under-torque recommended spec by approx. 10%.
It's certainly not a documented 'best practice' anywhere, but seems to have served me well in the 40 years I've been messing with these things.
It's certainly not a documented 'best practice' anywhere, but seems to have served me well in the 40 years I've been messing with these things.
Making sure you have a good crush washer is key. Once it hits resistance, I just give the ratchet a final nudge to snug it. I dont use torque wrench for items like this.
Or you can go with this method: a 1/4 of a turn before it snaps.
Spoke to the dealer I bought the bike from regarding my situation and asked whether he thought I would get a replacement. He said and I quote "Listen, you bought the bike from me, bring it to me. I'll make this right for you.".... I bought this bike from a dealer who was priced a little higher than his competition mainly because he was the only dealer to treat me like a person.... Kinda glad I went with him. If he fixes it for me, I'll probably buy an equal value of gear from him the day I pickup the bike.
Sounds like a great guy and dealer.
FastFreddy
New Member
That sucks when that happens.
I mainly "go by feel" and stay aware of the angle past the nip up point I've tightened, based on the bolt size when going into aluminium alloy threads after having stripped a sump thread on my car before.
I still use the torque wrench, normally only on bolts that require high torque such as suspension and brake components and bolts/studs going into the head.
1/4 turn from nip up starts getting to the strip point for sump plugs I think, 15-20 degrees is enough.
I mainly "go by feel" and stay aware of the angle past the nip up point I've tightened, based on the bolt size when going into aluminium alloy threads after having stripped a sump thread on my car before.
I still use the torque wrench, normally only on bolts that require high torque such as suspension and brake components and bolts/studs going into the head.
1/4 turn from nip up starts getting to the strip point for sump plugs I think, 15-20 degrees is enough.
FastFreddy
New Member
Just helicoil the thread to fix, I wouldn't worry about insisting in a change of sump.