Gears slipping?


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fraydoe

New Member
Hey guys somethings been happening to me recently, I dont know how to fully explain it or explain it correctly but I'll try...

First off I have a 2010 model, all stock, other than a few cosmetic changes.

Whats been happening is that when I upshift ( usually to 4th, 5th or 6th ), the gear engages for a short second then "slips" back down to the original gear. Now I'm not too sure if it's because I'm not fully upshifting hard enough or what (I usually don't pay attention to how hard I'm upshifting, I usually just pull the clutch in, flick my foot up and expect it to upshift) . But maybe you guys can give me some insight to what's going on.

Note: This actually started happening after I lowered the front by 1 inch, and after I have successfully started poppin clutch wheelies near the balance point (maybe that's contributing to the problem?)
 
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Marthy

World Most Bad A$$ 6R
Elite Member
Lowering the bike is not the issue. The shifting mechanism is like a ratchet. It need to go all the way to the end of his stroke/travel to be fully engage. Try to pay more attention at what you do or the way you do it. Sometime we do things and don't really pay attention. I get those miss shift once in a while too. Most of the time is when I get tired. Maybe you need to adjust the shifter so it's more in a natural way for you.
 
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Michael Wilson

New Member
I agree with marthy. Up shift firmer. I don't believe its an actual gear issuse because then it would randomly pop out of gear uunder loads. (Fast accel ect)

Doing clutch wheelies normally just wears down your clutch not the gears.

Try marthys suggestion and see what it does then report back :)
 
J

JT

Monster Member
Elite Member
Michael Wilson said:
I agree with marthy. Up shift firmer. I don't believe its an actual gear issuse because then it would randomly pop out of gear uunder loads. (Fast accel ect)

Doing clutch wheelies normally just wears down your clutch not the gears.

Try marthys suggestion and see what it does then report back :)
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marthy is hte man. let us know if it was in fact just more pressure / longer stroke requierd (thats what she said)
 
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Chucker

Active Member
I had a similar situation on a new bike I bought years ago and the dealer, who was an old GP racer from Europe, told me to upshift without the clutch above 2nd for a few weeks and that would round off the edge of the gears a bit to allow it to slide into each gear easier. I did that and the problem was gone.

Mind you, I can hardly feel the shifts on my 6R and the only time I ever miss one is the odd time at the track.
 
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SurfJunkie

New Member
Upshift with PURPOSE or move the shift lever down in its travel a little bit more.

I had to move my shift lever UP because I wear AGATT, and couldn't fit a riding boot in where the dealer left it adjusted without my toe pointing straight at the ground. ( eff that. )

Loosen the two 10mm nuts at each end of the shift rod, then spin the rod. Depending on the direction you twist, you will see the lever move up or down. Lock the nuts back down before test riding.
 
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Chevyfazer

New Member
I had a similar issue a while back after I changed the oil, I felt like being cheep and I didn't buy the stuff I normally run and just bought some "regular" oil. After I went back to the good stuff It has not done it again.

So have you recently changed the oil to a different brand perhaps?
 
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JSP

Super Moderator
Chevyfazer said:
I had a similar issue a while back after I changed the oil, I felt like being cheep and I didn't buy the stuff I normally run and just bought some "regular" oil. After I went back to the good stuff It has not done it again.

So have you recently changed the oil to a different brand perhaps?
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Or could be he is DUE for an oil change... I noticed coming up on the time for an oil change, shifting would start to get rough, etc.
 
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BKP

New Member
Chevyfazer said:
I had a similar issue a while back after I changed the oil, I felt like being cheep and I didn't buy the stuff I normally run and just bought some "regular" oil. After I went back to the good stuff It has not done it again.

So have you recently changed the oil to a different brand perhaps?
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Funny you should say that... I've had just the opposite experience. I recently upgraded to synth oil (Mobil 1 4T) from dino, and shifting became so much smoother that I started getting a bit lazy with my shifts. It would occasionally pop back out if I didn't shift more firmly... Adjusted my habits and no more problem...

Sounds like a similar thing with the OP... So, +1 with what Marthy said...
 
Z

z21-i

New Member
Also make sure after you shift the lever goes back to center (or down I guess). As Marthy said its like a ratchet and it needs to come back down and sort of reset or you cannot get the next gear.

Hope this makes sense.
 
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fraydoe

New Member
so on an update, i havent had a gear slip on me since the post.. lol go figure

but i have noticed it's starting to get really hard trying to get into neutral, i was literally sitting at the door of the drive thru for a straight minute, from first to second and second to first, im now guessing i should do an oil change and switch to synth?

also being in arizona im thinking i should run the same 20w 50 right? or does the thickness matter in the smoothness of shifting?

(complaining about little things on this bike suaded my cousin to let me ride his 2011 zx6r and oh baby i fell in love, not particularly with the bike but the ss class, shifting was so smooth i had to reassure myself i shifted by looking at the gear indicator, i see a cbr600rr in the near future... :D )
 
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fraydoe

New Member
So I just replaced my oil and voila the gear slipping is gone, readjusted the clutch and I now have a more firmer shift. However in the process I came across a very nasty problem.

As I was trying to unscrew the oil plug from the pan the pan stripped and I now have the plug in place at the "tightest" point however I am still getting a leak!

I've seen oil pans online for around 50.00 compared to the dealer charging 111.00, I'm just wondering if there is some sort of how to to replace it, if i need to fully suspend the bike or whatnot.
 
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buzzbomb

Senior Member
Elite Member
fraydoe said:
So I just replaced my oil and voila the gear slipping is gone, readjusted the clutch and I now have a more firmer shift. However in the process I came across a very nasty problem.

As I was trying to unscrew the oil plug from the pan the pan stripped and I now have the plug in place at the "tightest" point however I am still getting a leak!

I've seen oil pans online for around 50.00 compared to the dealer charging 111.00, I'm just wondering if there is some sort of how to to replace it, if i need to fully suspend the bike or whatnot.
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Sorry. I'm unclear as to how one can strip a bolt while unscrewing it. Before I'm willing to offer any advice, I wish to have that minor conundrum cleared up.

I'm not trying to be an ass. Though I usually am. Honesty goes a long way.
 
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Chevyfazer

New Member
We didn't use air tools on the drain plug now did we?

Before you go down the route of replacing the whole oil pan there are a couple things you can try. 1st thing to try would be to replace the crush washer that goes on the plug. If that doesn't do it then you could try and put some teflon tape on the threads of the plug. And if those don't work then you could try to put some pipe dope on the threads. The best stuff I've ever used is call Blue Block http://www.accentshopping.com/product.asp?P_ID=148706

It says it's rated for temps above 450 and up to 12,000psi. It's the only pipe dope that I know of that is approved by NASA so its some good stuff. I'm not sure what the temperatures are in that area of the engine but I know I've used it on super heat hot water lines that the temperature was over 600* f in spots so you should be good.
 
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fraydoe

New Member
Well the bolt was on so tight, I had to use quite a bit of force to get it off (not to be cocky but I'm a pretty strong guy), just a regular socket wrench. When I looked at the bolt the whole threading was on there, I took it off and it looked like a metal spring. The bolt itself is fine.

As for the Blue Block, could I take it off for the next change or does it basically replace the threading?

I'm definitely going to try the teflon tape after work today.
 
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Marthy

World Most Bad A$$ 6R
Elite Member
Righty thighty, lefty loosy! JB weld will do a great job for the next 4K miles. Then you can get a new pan...
 
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fraydoe

New Member
it was pretty easy to get the bolt on but like i said when i started taking it off it stripped the oil pan.

I couldnt find the blue block but i did find some jb weld and some loctite thread and nut locker along with some teflon tape.

how would i apply the jb weld? just screw in the plug and place around edges to seal? or on the actual plug itself?
 

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SurfJunkie

New Member
Personally, id just replace the pan and be done with it.

If money is tight and you need time to fix and must ride, go for the above.

JB weld and other items are just going to make a big mess, and you may still end up with a leak. Typically you would mix the two compounds together, and use a spatula to apply to the affected area.EG: Back the bolt out a bit, saturate the underside of the bolt head and pan area it will mate to. Tighten or press it back in, then cure it while keeping it in place. It needs full cure time before you even consider putting oil back in the bike. Once cured and assuming there are no bubbles/dirt trapped under the JB, it should be there indefinitely.

Not possible to get just a tap and die set and just tap the threads a size or two larger, and get a new bolt/washer from the hardware store ? ( Still going to need to drop the pan to do this. With all the metal shavings that will end up in the pan, just not a good idea to do it in place. )

Sounds to me like your dealer/installer cross threaded the bolt to high hell.
 
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