atomoverride
New Member
n00b question, but the break in period is like 100 miles right?
fastest you've had your fz6r
- Thread starter mwilkins_2000
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Read your manual! I'm surprised the dealer didn't tell you anything. Break-in is 600 miles where you should vary the rpms and stay under 6000 and then do first service. After that, stay under 7000 rpms till 1000 miles I think.
That's correct.
Under 5800 rpms for miles 1-600.
First service.
Under 7000 rpms for miles 601-1000.
Enjoy it balls to the walls from mile 1001 and on. :rockon:
L
LERecords
and thats a great way to create problems later ... ya know.. if you dont follow the yamaha breaking schedule... good luckMy dealer said screw the break in period...I've been having fun since 50 miles +
cbzdel
New Member
I guess your dealer knows more about Yamaha engines that Yamaha :thumbup:My dealer said screw the break in period...I've been having fun since 50 miles +
Hope you got the extended warranty lol
fz6r rider
New Member
with the warranty they really cant do anything. They cant prove that you beat on the bike before the break in. anything goes wrong its covered under warranty. all u pay is service rates. I forget who it is but one manufacturer actually uses the onboard computer to track and log your speed, gear ratios, fuel econ...etc
mwilkins_2000
New Member
im 20 and ya its my first bike but i usually ride my buddies bikes,,,,,the first time i ever rode i was 15 and rode my buds cbr 600RR balls to the wall no problem i just got the need for big power idk thats just me and no im not into stunting but i love going 120+ on open roads for short times which the fz6 will do but takes to long ...still love it though:thumbup:
mwilkins_2000
New Member
same here...my dealer said they just say that to cover their ass but to get the most power and good break in they said ride it like you stole it because the "warm up cool down" is a myth and your rings actually seat within the first 20 miles the bike is rode.....My dealer said screw the break in period...I've been having fun since 50 miles +
What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !
Why ??
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.
If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.
How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??
From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.
The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.
There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!
If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.
Fortunately, most new sportbike owners can't resist the urge to "open it up" once or twice,
which is why more engines don't have this problem !!
An additional factor that you may not have realized, is that the person at the dealership who set up your bike probably blasted your brand new bike pretty hard on the "test run". So, without realizing it, that adrenaline crazed set - up mechanic actually did you a huge favor !!
G
gusss
sorry.. never had himHe may be fast at the end, but you had him for the first 500 feet, right?!?!
jon144hart
New Member
146 stock? hard to believe. ive sat in 5th or 6th gear and 130 is all it will push. ive been told that its mostly because its a de-tuned r6 motor and its marketed towards beginners so its not made to go high speeds. it gets to 120 with no problems but after that..
cbzdel
New Member
Update, hit 90 Only at 500 miles lol :thumbup:
Only 100 more and I can go over 65 (hit maybe 75ish until my 1000 miles)
Only at 500 miles lol :thumbup:Only 100 more and I can go over 65 (hit maybe 75ish until my 1000 miles)
T
Tarzanman
Fastest I have ever had my R1 up to is 100mph. It will do an indicated 165, but I have no reason to go that fast. I have done 110 on my R6, but just to quickly pass a car with a wonky driver.
I have never even had my R1 above 10,000 rpm because the power scares the living daylights out of me. Redline is 15.5k...I am glad that I'm not a speed demon and not tempted to push it that hard.
I have never even had my R1 above 10,000 rpm because the power scares the living daylights out of me. Redline is 15.5k...I am glad that I'm not a speed demon and not tempted to push it that hard.
W
wolfc70
There is a difference between doing a "hard" break in versus beating on it. Remember, our bikes do not have the old fashioned cast iron cylinder liners, we have a composite/ceramic linings, which wear in differently than the iron liners. With the composite liners, you have one chance to seat the rings, as the liners can not be re honed. To seat the rings you want lots of combustion pressure, but lower revs to force the rings into the cylinder walls. So you want large throttle openings at the recommended revs, if you exceed the rev limitations, you can glaze the cylinder walls ending any possibility of long life.
Granted the rings should be seated by 100 miles or so, but not all engines are perfect, and having the dual step break in ensures all engines will wear in properly, even if tolerances vary between engines.
And you can tell if the rings did not seat properly. If you remove the head, you will be able to tell by the way the cylinder walls look. A super shiny surface over the cross hatching means the rings did not seat. If you pull a piston and there is carbon beyond the compression rings, you have blow by, which also means the rings did not seat properly.
You can do what you want, but I would stick fairly closely to Yamaha's recommendations for break in. Large throttle openings for short periods of time are fine, just keep the revs down until at least 600 miles. After the oil change, ( you will be amazed at the metal in the oil, if you do your own maintenance) you should be able to slowly start hitting the upper RPM's.
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