Faster faster faster

[owldaddy]

If your looking to accelerate faster, then the sprocket change will accomplish that. Go for it. It means your bike will be slower on the top end and the engine will be spinning faster then it already does at cruising speeds. I kind of like the stock set up myself. I also ride a BMW opposed twin, it revs at half of what the 6R does. So I'm used to an engine that isn't screaming all the time. I am always looking for ways to go around a corner faster, that is why I ride. Saturday a friend and I will be on hwy 49 doing the "Little Dragon". That is the kind of riding I live for. Thankfully I live in an area where twisty roads are available. I don't ride a touring bike because there is nothing more boring then a straight road. I might ride the BMW on Saturday due to the length of our ride. I find the seat on the 6R painful after about 175 miles. BTW, the BMW corners real good too. It also never does the Hula. It better not after all the money I have tied up in the suspension. :thumbup:

 

[TOMIK]

Bigger Exhust,and led is the tric.:surrender:

 

[Mikester88]

If your looking to accelerate faster, then the sprocket change will accomplish that. Go for it. It means your bike will be slower on the top end and the engine will be spinning faster then it already does at cruising speeds. I kind of like the stock set up myself. I also ride a BMW opposed twin, it revs at half of what the 6R does. So I'm used to an engine that isn't screaming all the time. I am always looking for ways to go around a corner faster, that is why I ride. Saturday a friend and I will be on hwy 49 doing the "Little Dragon". That is the kind of riding I live for. Thankfully I live in an area where twisty roads are available. I don't ride a touring bike because there is nothing more boring then a straight road. I might ride the BMW on Saturday due to the length of our ride. I find the seat on the 6R painful after about 175 miles. BTW, the BMW corners real good too. It also never does the Hula. It better not after all the money I have tied up in the suspension. :thumbup:

Deff considering the sprocket change. Not to worried bout losing the top end. It's not very often i'm goin over 100 ha

 

[owldaddy]

Changing sprockets is one of the cheaper mods you can make. It will get you more acceleration, it's up to you as to how much change you want. Keep us informed as to what you come up with. If I were living in a world where going quickly from one stop light to the next was important, I might be tempted to try that myself. I did live in that world once (Long Beach in the 70's, and I did change sprockets on my GT350), not any more, so I'll keep things the way they are. Have fun, that is what it is all about.

 

[FZJ]

Just to keep it short and sweet, if you know how to ride, then you can keep up with supersports around corners. When a long straightaway comes then its literally over. I ride with guys who have been riding for years but when that straight stretch comes its literally game over for me. The sprocket change will definitely help and its the cheapest and probably the most beneficial if acceleration is what your after. When I fix my FZ up I will definitely be doing that. I was thinking about doing a +10 in the rear. I wrecked mine so its currently being turned into a naked stuntbike.

 

[Mikester88]

Yea I know how to ride. Been on bikes a long time. I race, well used to race 2 stroke dirtbikes. I love that blast of acceleration from the powerband. So that's sorta what I'm after. I'm new to the streetbikes. This is only my 2nd one. Had a kawi 250. I'm deff doin it soon. I'll repost how it goes

 

[Roaddawg]

I wouldnt bother myself, because regardless of how well do you with your riding skills and corners, horsepower is king. Unless the road is NOTHING but corners, they will leave you behind between each one.

I had an old FJ1100, 125hp. It cornered for crap but has some serious power for the time. I could be following guys in their 600s/750s with all the skill in the world, scraping their footpegs and all, and I could be just taking it easy in the corner and still just gobble up the difference in a VERY short straitaway. Doesnt take much of a strait road to make that up.

Considering the HP difference between the FZ6R and the R6 (2010 R1 is 122 HP), they have you 2 to 1 on that. That's a real butt kicking there! Thats almost what I had on my 1100 FJ!

Plus, the ONLY way you could make it up is by out cornering them. That's a game I just don't try to play. Better skills or not. That type of thinking is a sure way to put yourself off the road.

Ride at your own comfort and saftey leven and you can catch up at the new stopping point in my book.

I agree. Yeah, the sprocket change will give you a little quicker acceleration (not much), but your trying to compare/change a Mustang GT to a Enzo...you just can't compare the two. No matter how much you upgrade the 6R, your not gonna be able to get onto the same level as a SS bike.

 

[Mikester88]

I agree. Yeah, the sprocket change will give you a little quicker acceleration (not much), but your trying to compare/change a Mustang GT to a Enzo...you just can't compare the two. No matter how much you upgrade the 6R, your not gonna be able to get onto the same level as a SS bike.

Yea I know ha. But it's cool. I'd just like to get the most I can out of it. The bikes got potential

 

[pyrocpu]

Maybe a motor swap from a current R6? Take the motor, trans, wiring harness, ECU...

??? dunno. Works in the car world.

 

[JonKerr]

Problem with doing that with bikes is most of the time the motor is a stressed member of the chassis. So different bikes almost always have different motor mount locations. (Unless the bike is designed around a motor like ours was designed around the 03-05 R6 motor.)

 

[Mikester88]

Nah I'm not going that extreme. Too much to mess with and with the money it'd take i'd prob spend more than it's worth. I got all my plans: TBR exhaust, power commander, air filter, dyno tune, -1/+2 sprocket, and speedohealer. Should make a pretty significant increase in performance. Any other stuff yall think would be good to throw in?

 

[davidrosso]

Flex/Hula?

Not to sound naive but what are you guys talking about in regards to flex/hula?

Picking the bike up from a hard left and and going to a hard right brings on the flex or hula. Doesn't hop,but it flexes in the rear. It also flexes on a right now lane change.

I can make the bike flex on a smooth freeway. I can ride tight and I practice every time I go out. If the bike drifts 6 inches I stop it hard and now, and I put it back hard,fast and now. I do the same with lane changes and junk on the road. It keeps me alert and sharp. On this bike I get the flex when I do it, not enough to scare me or slow me down but it's there.

Racetech springs front and rear changed a hula dancing bike into a real sport bike.

It also never does the Hula.

 

[husker525]

You can get more horsepower out of these motors, but it is going to be pricey at this early stage of R&D and current aftermarket solutions for this bike.

If you are serious about more hp, then contact a reputable piston manufacturer, such as JE, or CP pistons about custom pistons. Bumping up the compression to around 12.5:1 will gain you about 8-10 hp over stock. Any more compression and you will have to run a mix of 50/50 race gas and pump gas. Not a great idea if you run out of fuel on the road.

Porting and polishing the heads will gain you some hp too. Be very careful with who you chose to port the heads. You get what you pay for with P&P the heads, it is not as simple as a head for a car. Boring the the throttle bodies adds hp too, but changes the throttle response at lower rpm ranges.

Changing the cam profile will add hp, but you will gain the hp in different areas of the powerband, so it must be tailored correctly to function with the rest of the mods, (i.e larger throttle bodies, etc.)

You will have to have some kind of adjustable fuel controller, and build your own map for that system.

A good free flowing exhaust is a must as well. You can have the best parts in the world, but if the combination is not correct, you will not be happy. You must know what you are doing, and what exactly you want in order to have a reliable, fast motor.

With the aforementioned mods, you can reach around the 100 hp benchmark.

Just remember, with all inline 4 cylinder Yamaha engines, the crank is the weak link. The #2 cylinder is usually the one to grenade, and usually the rod snaps. Anytime you add more compression, it adds more heat, and more stress on the bottom end.

This is a very reliable engine, and it is as advertised, 'a de-tuned R6 motor'. You just have to kind of undo what Yamaha created with their de-tuning. Unless you have some connections, it may cost you a pretty penny.

Pistons x4= $225 each
Polish and porting= $400-1800, depending on who does it
Boring throttle bodies= $800
Exhaust=$800
Cams= $200 each
Controller=$350

Now you need to upgrade the suspension, and the brakes to handle the additional power. The stock rear tire will be too narrow to handle a rider that can use all this new hp all the time, and swingarm to tire clearance becomes a problem too. That is a whole another issue.

When all is said and done, you will have more in it than a traditional supersport bike sells for out the door.

Can it be done? YES! My motor is full of prototype experimentation, and so far, so good. But the bike has limitations outside of my new hp. It works perfectly for where and how I ride it, (mostly street, some closed course drag racing). I rarely get to use all the hp on motor alone, nor do I need it. JMHO

 

[Mikester88]

Sounds like everything my friend did to his 4 wheeler ha. I KNOW. It makes a HELL of a diff when u do all that. Ima take care of the simpler stuff instead of going that far. Doesn't pay off when I could get an r6 with all that money put in. Maybe I'll just get a supersport for short rides for fun and keep my fz6r for everyday riding. THAT might be the easiest solution lol

 

[Mikester88]

Oh and thanks for ur wise words husker. Sounds like u got skills

 

[stuna]

You can get more horsepower out of these motors, but it is going to be pricey at this early stage of R&D and current aftermarket solutions for this bike.

If you are serious about more hp, then contact a reputable piston manufacturer, such as JE, or CP pistons about custom pistons. Bumping up the compression to around 12.5:1 will gain you about 8-10 hp over stock. Any more compression and you will have to run a mix of 50/50 race gas and pump gas. Not a great idea if you run out of fuel on the road.

Porting and polishing the heads will gain you some hp too. Be very careful with who you chose to port the heads. You get what you pay for with P&P the heads, it is not as simple as a head for a car. Boring the the throttle bodies adds hp too, but changes the throttle response at lower rpm ranges.

Changing the cam profile will add hp, but you will gain the hp in different areas of the powerband, so it must be tailored correctly to function with the rest of the mods, (i.e larger throttle bodies, etc.)

You will have to have some kind of adjustable fuel controller, and build your own map for that system.

A good free flowing exhaust is a must as well. You can have the best parts in the world, but if the combination is not correct, you will not be happy. You must know what you are doing, and what exactly you want in order to have a reliable, fast motor.

With the aforementioned mods, you can reach around the 100 hp benchmark.

Just remember, with all inline 4 cylinder Yamaha engines, the crank is the weak link. The #2 cylinder is usually the one to grenade, and usually the rod snaps. Anytime you add more compression, it adds more heat, and more stress on the bottom end.

This is a very reliable engine, and it is as advertised, 'a de-tuned R6 motor'. You just have to kind of undo what Yamaha created with their de-tuning. Unless you have some connections, it may cost you a pretty penny.

Pistons x4= $225 each
Polish and porting= $400-1800, depending on who does it
Boring throttle bodies= $800
Exhaust=$800
Cams= $200 each
Controller=$350

Now you need to upgrade the suspension, and the brakes to handle the additional power. The stock rear tire will be too narrow to handle a rider that can use all this new hp all the time, and swingarm to tire clearance becomes a problem too. That is a whole another issue.

When all is said and done, you will have more in it than a traditional supersport bike sells for out the door.

Can it be done? YES! My motor is full of prototype experimentation, and so far, so good. But the bike has limitations outside of my new hp. It works perfectly for where and how I ride it, (mostly street, some closed course drag racing). I rarely get to use all the hp on motor alone, nor do I need it. JMHO

= trade it in on a real bike

 

[owldaddy]

Not to sound naive but what are you guys talking about in regards to flex/hula?

The Hula is that weird feeling you get when the wheels move out of alignment with each other. The rear wheel and front wheel kind of dance around, oscillating back and forth as the wheels moved in relation to each other, causing the bike to change angle of lean while in a turn. This can be caused by flex in the frame, steering head, forks or swingarm. Even low tire pressure can cause it. It used to be quite common on most Japanese bikes. When riding the twisties behind my buddy on his KZ1000, it was obvious his rear wheel was moving around, you could see it clearly. On that bike they had all 4 problems. The steering head and frame could be fixed, a couple steel tubes welded into the right places fixed that problem, the swingarm was another story, it really needed to be replaced. In the 70's they concentrated on making more powerful engines, all the manufactures were in competition to make the most powerful engines, then they realized that the engines were overpowering the frames etc. They did what they could to improve handling by building better frames and swingarms and using bigger forks. Today very few bikes do the Hula because they have looked at the bike as a whole, not just an engine. I have felt the Hula on the 6R, but not since I fixed the forks. I can detect no flexing of any components. When I settle into a turn, I feel confident I won't be dancing through that turn. BTW I always hated when I danced in the middle of a turn, it can cause bad things to happen...... and ruin your day.

 

[davidrosso]

Thats weird. I've hit my share of twisties and I've never felt anything like that, however, my FZ6R is the only bike I've had besides a SilverWing scooter before it so I don't have anything to really compare it to.

 

[JonKerr]

Thats weird. I've hit my share of twisties and I've never felt anything like that, however, my FZ6R is the only bike I've had besides a SilverWing scooter before it so I don't have anything to really compare it to.

It's something you wouldn't really notice unless you've ridden a bike like an R1 or similar that doesn't do it. I've noticed it a couple of times but only when riding at, lets just say, a spirited pace.

 

[owldaddy]

Ride most any Japanese bike from the 70's (excluding the Yamaha RD's) and you will experience a pucker in the neither regions when it happens. It usually happens when your leaned over in a corner and hit a bump. What happens with the weak frame/swingarm type of Hula is..... It takes energy to deform the frame/swingarm. The deformed structure acts as a spring, stores that energy for a moment, then releases it as it springs back into it's normal shape, when that happens it changes the bikes geometry and brings the wheels back into alignment with each other. There is no dampening of this energy, so it can actually flex in the other direction for a moment. If you can ride a pogo stick at 60 mph and not get upset, then your in great shape. The oscillation that can set up can be disturbing to say the least. Thank goodness motorcycles are not made that way any more. Now we have great engines and good handling. As far as what is going on with the 6R, I think it is mostly a lack of fork dampening, dump that 0wt fluid Yamaha puts in there with something that will actually dampen the energy released by the fork springs. That should help some. I might not be riding the 6R hard enough to get it to act weird, in the 70's I didn't need to ride hard to set it up.