Yamaha FZ6R Top Carrier Mount with Givi E300

[blazing_nitro]

Hey guys bought the OEM Yamaha Top Carrier Mount as backpack is getting tired.

I choose not to install the lower braces as the mount is pure aluminum and is super stiff. The lower braces would also hit my turn signals.

I'm debating to have the mount painted yellow or black. The silver would have looked great on the black or white bikes.

I got the E300 Givi top because of size. In time I hope to get a bigger so I have alternatives although I don't think I need a big one but who knows.

I may remove my FE to see how it would look with the original fender.

I also ordered some lights to add to the Givi. This will be my winter project.

I'm haven't mounted my givi plate yet as the yamaha matches the givi perfect except for the end holder. I think you get that part with the yamaha case. If anyone knows it would be great.

 

[Roaddawg]

Looks good. I don't understand why Yamaha has some parts only available in Canada and Europe, but not in the US. This isn't listed on their US site, kind of like the center stand and tire hugger on the Europe sites. I assume you bought in in Canada? How much for your setup?

 

[blazing_nitro]

Looks good. I don't understand why Yamaha has some parts only available in Canada and Europe, but not in the US. This isn't listed on their US site, kind of like the center stand and tire hugger on the Europe sites. I assume you bought in in Canada? How much for your setup?

The yamaha mount was $199 plus tax. Took 4 days to get in.

The givi e300 was $110 plus tax. Dealer had stock.

 

[Heineken]

The yamaha mount was $199 plus tax. Took 4 days to get in.

The givi e300 was $110 plus tax. Dealer had stock.

Hmmz the FZ364 witch is the mount setup for the Givi Monokey or Monolock cases you can buy it from twistedthrottle.com for 136 + shipping. I don't know why you went for the Yamaha version witch is more expensive and bulkier looking if your case and future case are going to be from the Givi bin.
Or maybe you have other plans, but this is the way I see it

 

[blazing_nitro]

Hmmz the FZ364 witch is the mount setup for the Givi Monokey or Monolock cases you can buy it from twistedthrottle.com for 136 + shipping. I don't know why you went for the Yamaha version witch is more expensive and bulkier looking if your case and future case are going to be from the Givi bin.Or maybe you have other plans, but this is the way I see it

Yes I definetely thought of buying the cheaper Givi mount. The main issue I went with the factory mount is the fact that it replaces the grab handle and it is one piece. Also I read in fz6 forum that yamaha factory mounts are compatible with monolock and monokey systems. Although mine doesn't have the knob thing on the end. I'm going to contact givi.

I think if Givi tried to manufacture a piece like the OEM it would cost way more. The OEM is a solid cast piece as opposed to tubes and bends with plate.

I also didn't buy the Yamaha case as it's almost $300 and looks to be very big for the bike for my daily use. Givi cases are definetely more cost effective and you can also find used ones. I still want the big case but may get side cases instead. I like the look of small top and larger sides.

Thinking back I'm very happy with the yamaha mount and think it's worth more than $200. I've seen other factory mounts that cost more and are no where near same quality.

I can also go back to factory just be removing four bolts under the seat.

Let's go ride..............................................

 

[blazing_nitro]

Added the Givi Base Plate

Added the givi plate to the factory mount.

 

[Yone]

It definitely needs painted black

 

[blazing_nitro]

It definitely needs painted black

I agree..............

I want to paint it same as the frame, slight dull black. Although right now it is a shiny metallic silver and it's all aluminum. Not sure if I can just buy spray paint in a can and bomb it. I will try and ask around as not sure if I have to sand it etc. I want to also keep costs to a minimum diy etc. It's going to be super easy to take off as it's just four screws.

I also went to store today and setup works perfect. Here's another farther away pic to see the whole bike. Silver isn't bothering me as much as I thought though. If there were more silver parts on the bike it would have balanced more.

Crazy winds on highway today.........................

 

[dart1963]

Paint it yellow and it'd almost make the rear tail look "normal" as it seems to blend into the bike rather seamlessly.
Check with a local paint shop, I'm sure you could get it done for very little, and they could match it and clearcoat it. Couldn't hurt to at least see what you'd be saving by doing it yourself.

 

[blazing_nitro]

Paint it yellow and it'd almost make the rear tail look "normal" as it seems to blend into the bike rather seamlessly.
Check with a local paint shop, I'm sure you could get it done for very little, and they could match it and clearcoat it. Couldn't hurt to at least see what you'd be saving by doing it yourself.

My first thought was Yellow. If I was going DIY I would do the dull black.

If I was going to a place I would love to match the yellow and clear coat.

Last year I was on the highway underpass with my car and something hit me. It created a small dent on the quarter panel. Anyway I went to a few local body shops and got outrageous prices. Ended up going far for $400. I spoke to the guy and wanted to know why so expensive. Guy told me the clear coat is a high factor. I know nothing about paints.

If anyone knows of a good affordable paint place in the GTA canada please let me know.

Once snow comes I may try and get some quotes.

 

[Roaddawg]

Personally, I would buy the Yamaha one over the Givi one, too. I think it flows with the bike better than the tubes do. So, I like your choice. Also, I would paint it the satin black color like the engine. I think yellow would stand out way more than the silver and make the bike look oddly long. And, if you get side cases, it would blend in better to. That's my 2 cents.

 

[blazing_nitro]

Personally, I would buy the Yamaha one over the Givi one, too. I think it flows with the bike better than the tubes do. So, I like your choice. Also, I would paint it the satin black color like the engine. I think yellow would stand out way more than the silver and make the bike look oddly long. And, if you get side cases, it would blend in better to. That's my 2 cents.

THanks, looking at the pic you may be right it may look like a massive yellow fender.

I'm going to see if anyone I know can try to edit the photo with black and yellow.

 

[Roaddawg]

I did a quick photo edit using Paint (not the best). Someone with Photoshop could do it a lot better, but here's a little glimpse.

 

[blazing_nitro]

I did a quick photo edit using Paint (not the best). Someone with Photoshop could do it a lot better, but here's a little glimpse.

Gives a pretty good idea. From the side view the yellow looks like a large fender. But I think there's some good balance from the front yellow fairing.

The black looks good as well as it continues the black line from the seat.

Tough call.

I guess I should imagine what it may look like with yellow or black with stock fender as eventually I think the toll highway camera might not be to happy with my setup (i.e. FE and top case). I hear they eventually wait for you.

I have a funny feeling that the stock fender will look better than the FE with this setup.

 

[Heineken]

I like the black better. To be honest when you started this thread I was convinced that I want the Givi mount.... now, not so much. I really like how your project turned out.

P.S. If you decide to re-install the stock rear fender to see what look you get, take some pics please.

 

[Bigevildoer]

My first thought was Yellow. If I was going DIY I would do the dull black.

If I was going to a place I would love to match the yellow and clear coat.

Guy told me the clear coat is a high factor. I know nothing about paints.

Thing about cars and touchups - they're not just painting the area that got dinged. They give the entire panel a good cleaning to remove any waxes or or such contaminents, then they give it a light sanding to ensure the paint adheres properly. Next step is applying the colour matched paint to the damaged area, feathering the edges to transparent. Why? It's impossible to get a 100% accurate colour match on paints, unless you manage to get paint from the same batch your car/bike was painted in. You'll get a swing of 1 or 2% on hue. The feathered edges help to blend the new paint to the old, making your eye not notice the variance (some people might not notice - depends on how well they perceive colour).

After that, they clear coat the entire surface and then throw it in an oven for baking (hardens the enamel paint, makes it durable)

So, it's a pretty labour intensive process - that's why it's so expensive...

For something like your aluminum frame there, I would suggest giving it a really good cleaning to remove any casting residue etc - Castrol Super Clean is perfect for this. Give it a very good sanding with a fine wet sandpaper, give it another cleaning as before. Make sure it is completely dry. Give it the old "white glove" test to make sure there's no residue.

If it's good, then apply a layer of black primer. Make sweeping passes about 10" away from the surface - start the paint flow away from the frame and then sweep across.

Let the primer sit overnight to cure. Then take an ENAMEL paint - they are the most durable - and apply in the same fashion as the primer. It's *MUCH MUCH MUCH* better to use 3 thin coats as opposed to 1 heavy one. This will reduce paint runs and give better overall adhesion. Again, let it sit overnight.

Now you can apply a clear coat if you wish. Might not be necessary.

That's it!

 

[blazing_nitro]

I like the black better. To be honest when you started this thread I was convinced that I want the Givi mount.... now, not so much. I really like how your project turned out.

P.S. If you decide to re-install the stock rear fender to see what look you get, take some pics please.

Thanks I will take some pics and post.

Only thing is that I put the old fender in the garage roof. I thought I would just throw it in the garbage and last minute took out the ladder and put it up there. Now have to get the ladder and get it again. I guess I'll get when I put up the xmas lights outside.

 

[blazing_nitro]

Thing about cars and touchups - they're not just painting the area that got dinged. They give the entire panel a good cleaning to remove any waxes or or such contaminents, then they give it a light sanding to ensure the paint adheres properly. Next step is applying the colour matched paint to the damaged area, feathering the edges to transparent. Why? It's impossible to get a 100% accurate colour match on paints, unless you manage to get paint from the same batch your car/bike was painted in. You'll get a swing of 1 or 2% on hue. The feathered edges help to blend the new paint to the old, making your eye not notice the variance (some people might not notice - depends on how well they perceive colour).

After that, they clear coat the entire surface and then throw it in an oven for baking (hardens the enamel paint, makes it durable)

So, it's a pretty labour intensive process - that's why it's so expensive...

For something like your aluminum frame there, I would suggest giving it a really good cleaning to remove any casting residue etc - Castrol Super Clean is perfect for this. Give it a very good sanding with a fine wet sandpaper, give it another cleaning as before. Make sure it is completely dry. Give it the old "white glove" test to make sure there's no residue.

If it's good, then apply a layer of black primer. Make sweeping passes about 10" away from the surface - start the paint flow away from the frame and then sweep across.

Let the primer sit overnight to cure. Then take an ENAMEL paint - they are the most durable - and apply in the same fashion as the primer. It's *MUCH MUCH MUCH* better to use 3 thin coats as opposed to 1 heavy one. This will reduce paint runs and give better overall adhesion. Again, let it sit overnight.

Now you can apply a clear coat if you wish. Might not be necessary.

That's it!

Thanks you saved alot of research on my end. Now all I need is some confidence...................................

Anybody know where to buy paint. I'm sure in the states there are a lot of places. Here in canada (GTA) I only know of Canadian Tire and Walmart.

I'm going to look for something to try like my kid's bike.

I will also get some quotes when I get an opportunity.

 

[Bigevildoer]

It's pretty simple, really, just takes some time....
Wait at least 30 minutes inbetween coats of paint as well - don't start applying your second coat before the first is at least finger touch dry (try a spot on the underside, not the surface area).
The Canadian Tire stuff will be fine - try the Tremclad rust paint - I believe it's an enamel base. Use the black primer, as it's your first attempt, and it will help cover any areas you miss with the final surface coat.

Oh yeah - if you're doing it in your garage - DO IT SOON!!! The cold weather really isn't good for painting. Also, be sure to shake the can REALLY REALLY REALLY well - at least a minute of VIGOROUS shaking. Who knows how long the paint has been sitting on the shelves, and this will ensure a good pigment/binder mixing.

 

[Heineken]

Thanks I will take some pics and post.

Only thing is that I put the old fender in the garage roof. I thought I would just throw it in the garbage and last minute took out the ladder and put it up there. Now have to get the ladder and get it again. I guess I'll get when I put up the xmas lights outside.

:needpics:

Did you paint the case mount? If yes we/I need pics ) I'm ready to buy something and still struggle to figure out what I want, the yamaha mount or the Givi .....