T-Rex Frame Slider Instructions

[rahuljp]

So I had ordered the T-rex frame sliders and finally decided to put them on today. I went through the How-To on the forum, which was a big help... but I believe that was for Shogun's or another brand. Same idea, so it wasnt a big deal. What I was confused about was the fact that the instructions I had did not match the items that I got.

Instructions said -
One M10x50mm (Left)
One M10x90mm (Right)
One M10x45mm (slider to adapter)
One adapter (left)
2 frame sliders..


What I had though were
Two M10x50mm
One M10x90mm
One M10x45mm
Two adapters
2 frame sliders..

I think someone had mentioned this on the forum. from the pics it looks like the Right one initially used to bolt right onto the frame, without an adapter and therefore it was notched. But now it came with an adapter. The problem was that the 90mm was too long.

I ended using the two 50mm's from the adapter to bike, the 45mm on the left side as mentioned, and i used the original 50mm engine bolt for the right side slider to adapter. Hope that made sense...

Does anyone think that this could be an issue? Anyone face the same problems? Thanks!

 

[dart1963]

I think you're right, there was a discussion that t-rex used to use one bolt... and later added an adapter.

If you are not 100% sure, call or email t-rex directly and let us know, they are very responsive on these details.

 

[mas4489]

i recently purchased and installed t-rex frame sliders as well. Ya the instructions are completely wrong. I just used my best judgment.
I used the thinner adapter on the right side with the original engine bolt as the other would not screw in all the way cause the threads were not all the way to the head of the bolt. on the left side I used the adapter with the thicker part around the hole, it actually brought it away from the motor. I used the long fine threaded bolt and it worked fine. I did notice when i went to put the cowling back on is didnt fit real. It is real tight going over the adapter for the slider.
Be very careful putting the screws back in for the cowling, its a steel screw going into aluminum, I cross threaded and now i'm waiting for the part to come in. Super easy to replace but 2-4 business days with a weekend included sucks. Especially when it includes the 2 nicest days of the week.
I got some pics i can post in a minute.

 

[mas4489]

here is the parts received and the right side installed

 

[mas4489]

here is the left side behind the cowling.

 

[roxxor]

i just installed the exact same one !

Very good product for 75$ CAN

Really easy to install

 

[wby0001]

thought this thread could use an update since it sounds like the kit has changed a bit since last year.

Just installed a t rex kit on my 09 6R (69.95 from 09 on TRex Yamaha FZ6R Frame Sliders NO CUT.

Mine didn't come with instructions so I thought I'd post pics--might be helpful to someone in the future to see how everything is suppose to go. installation for me took about an hour or 2 without instructions and any real knowledge of what I was doing.

the only thing i'm not sure about is where to use the washers. I think, if the mounting bracket has a hole wide enough for the bolt to sit into the bracket (there's a name for this type of hole, I can't remember it), then the washer should go between the bracket and the bike, but I put it between the bolt and the bracket most places.

the kit I recieved


right side without fairing


right side


left side


overall I am pleased with this kit and would recommend them to anyone FZ6R owner. I like the structural support each bracket gets from the bike. now i'm just hoping they turn out to be a waste of money!

 

[BKP]

Thanks for posting the update, wby...
My T-Rex sliders are in the mail, and this will definitely help.

The quality of their components is excellent, and they seem to over-engineer all their attachments -- also a good thing. They're great about getting back to you, and addressing these issues (which also happened on another forum, with both the sliders, and spools, when I had my previous bike).

All that being said, whomever puts the instructions together, and packages them with the components, needs to get off the crack...

 

[Z3roFlaw]

Thanks for updating the thread with new info. I have a pair of T-Rex frame sliders coming to me and I'm going to use this thread to help with the install.

 

[Xanroth]

Im going to go ahead and post and tell you to replace your t-rex frame sliders.. the bolts provided are junk. I had a very, and I do mean very weak wreck and the bolt didnt hold, at all.

Either replace them totally, or get a new set of bolts.

 

[BKP]

Hope there was no damage to you, or your bike...

I'm surprised to hear this. T-Rex uses 12.9 grade alloy steel bolts, which have about the strongest load, yield, and tensile strength that you can buy (at least they do in both sets of spool adapters I've bought from them).

If you check the top of the bolt, you should see "12.9" stamped into the head. If it's *not* there, they've changed components. Another reason a bolt can snap is from being over-torqued and suffering minor fatigue/sheer.

In any case, sorry about your experience. I would definitely get in touch with T-Rex, and find out what's up.

 

[BKP]

thought this thread could use an update since it sounds like the kit has changed a bit since last year.

Just installed a t rex kit on my 09 6R (69.95 from 09 on TRex Yamaha FZ6R Frame Sliders NO CUT.

Mine didn't come with instructions so I thought I'd post pics--might be helpful to someone in the future to see how everything is suppose to go. installation for me took about an hour or 2 without instructions and any real knowledge of what I was doing.

WOW!! I give you credit for attempting that with no instructions. Mine came today, and I'd be happy to forward you the instructions (just to make sure you don't have any surprises lurking).
In fact, in the interest of time... here you go:

the only thing i'm not sure about is where to use the washers. I think, if the mounting bracket has a hole wide enough for the bolt to sit into the bracket (there's a name for this type of hole, I can't remember it), then the washer should go between the bracket and the bike, but I put it between the bolt and the bracket most places.

Now you know where the washers were supposed to go.

One quick question. Did you actually jack up the bike with a floor jack (which is what they say to do in the instructions) before taking out the engine mount screws? I just don't see that as being necessary if you're doing one side at a time. And, if you *did* jack it up, where did you place the jack platform? Under the transmission casing? I can't find any other place for it, and not sure that casing would hold the bike.

Anyway... looks like solid components, and the bolts are, indeed, 12.9 grade.

Good luck, and here's hoping we *both* wasted our money...

 

[wby0001]

Im going to go ahead and post and tell you to replace your t-rex frame sliders.. the bolts provided are junk. I had a very, and I do mean very weak wreck and the bolt didnt hold, at all.

Either replace them totally, or get a new set of bolts.

how and which bolt failed? was it sheared off?

All that being said, whomever puts the instructions together, and packages them with the components, needs to get off the crack...

haha yes, yes they do. thanks for that diagram. wish i had that last week but fortunately i did it all right except i didn't put washers between the bolts and the sliders. but i don't have to take off any fairings to fix that so that'll be easy.

One quick question. Did you actually jack up the bike with a floor jack (which is what they say to do in the instructions) before taking out the engine mount screws? I just don't see that as being necessary if you're doing one side at a time. And, if you *did* jack it up, where did you place the jack platform? Under the transmission casing? I can't find any other place for it, and not sure that casing would hold the bike.

nope sure didn't do any jacking. that sounds like a waste of time. of course, if the engine did come out of alignment with the frame when the bolts are removed...that'd suck. but i don't think it'll happen, especially if you do it as you said, one side at a time. you could even do it one bolt at a time if your worried about it.

sidenote: i didn't know there wasn't an allen wrench in the FZ6R's tool kit that'd get the engine bolts out when i started installation, so i ran to lowes and bought a #8 hex key with a 3/8" drive socket and a 12" breaker bar with a 3/8" inch driver. the breaker bar made getting them out and in pretty easy.

 

[rx9790]

I did the middle engine bolt first, rotated the bracket and then did the front engine bolt. No need to jack anything then.

 

[mashuga]

Did anyone have a rough time getting the smaller bolts on the right side to screw in? I think the red lock tite they use at the factory was an issue, i really had to wrench them in there.

I also had to use 2 washers on one of the bolts on the right side, it was way too long, and wouldnt sit flush against plate/adapter.

I thought i was cross threading but when i backed the bolts out and looked at them there was red crud all over them.

 

[BKP]

Did anyone have a rough time getting the smaller bolts on the right side to screw in? I think the red lock tite they use at the factory was an issue, i really had to wrench them in there.

I also had to use 2 washers on one of the bolts on the right side, it was way too long, and wouldnt sit flush against plate/adapter.

I thought i was cross threading but when i backed the bolts out and looked at them there was red crud all over them.

I plan on installing them tomorrow. So, I'll let you know if I fun into the same thing...

 

[Xanroth]

M10x40 course that plugs through the puck itself is what sheered...

When I picked the bike up and ran my finger acorss where the bolt/puck was, I was stabbed by the strands of metal still sticking out after it had sheered off..

I picked up the puck and it was in "like new" condition with no obvious signs of damage.

The bike is on its way to italy, and sometime over the next few weeks i'll go back to where I wrecked and get the puck... When I get the bike back i'll revisit this thread and post pictures of the still threaded in sheered bolt...

/shrug, when I see a bolt sheer off like that, I dunno.. to me thats a weak product.

Also, this was a result of a high side at about 30 to 35mph. I was in the air, so im not sure if the bike summer saulted or anything, nor the exact impact on the puck itself.. but it had to be a "side slide" for it just sheer off, I would imagine.. also, as stated before, the puck looked brand spanking new when I picked it off the ground.

 

[BKP]

Again, most importantly, glad you're ok, Xanroth.

However, in a high-side all bets are off for any brand of frame sliders... totally different dynamic.
In a typical low-side asphalt slide, there's little to "grab and hold" the puck, so it skates along the road and absorbs the friction. A high-side, especially where impact, as opposed to slide, is probable, the puck can catch at an impact angle, and actually be "held" while the full weight of the bike continues it's inertial roll (which is apparently what kept your puck looking "like new"), and it wouldn't take much to sheer it in that happenstance.

Of course, this is all conjecture, but since it was a high-side it would explain the condition of your puck.

 

[Xanroth]

Meh, bike hit the right side first, and that puck held up. After it came around and hit the left side, the puck came completly off, but the plastics held... wasnt direct impact because the groves in the cowling suggests a "slide".. the majority of the "crack" impact was on the front cowling, leading me to believe the bike did a "head over rear" flip, as opposed to a side to side tumble..

Either way, to talk about the impact without a video of the actual thing is hard to do.. Im going off stone cold memory.. I've been in a lot of dirt bike wrecks before, so I got over the "close my eyes" thing a long time ago..

Im not arguing with T-Rex's quality, but there was another member here that had the same issue. Low wreck (I actually think he just "dropped" his) and the bolt just snapping off like a twig...

I guess I would have been more happy to see a "twisted, mangled bolt" as opposed to a sheered bolt.

 

[BKP]

I agree... without a video I think it's tough to reconstruct a crash, especially if you're in the middle of it...

I've done a little searching on sliders, and one of the best places, IMHO, to look is on the supersport forums (where they *really* need the things). The most recommended seems to be Woodcraft (which have been around a while, and requires fairing modification). Next is Vortex (with T-Rex coming in 3rd, but they're the new kid on the block, and getting more popular).

What's interesting is you can *also* find quite a few Vortex fails, similar to what you describe...

Bottom line being there will be wrecks where the sliders can't do their job for whatever reason... Hopefully, that will usually be the exception...