Suspension Upgrades....

[jearnshaw]

Well there isn't much out there for our bikes but I think I have read just about everything out there on what to do.

I am just not sure on which end to start with yet. I spoke with a guy that raced a FZ1 and he stated he did the rear shock first and it made a huge difference. But I feel on our bikes that the front end could use some help and I am seriously considering ordering Racetech's Emulators and 10 weight shock oil.

On Racetech's website their are saying for my weight to switch over to the .88 kg spring instead of the stock .90 kg but since I commute with full gear on and always wearing a backpack I might keep the stock springs for now and see what happens. And for the rear I will just see how the bike handles afterwards.

 

[FastFreddy]

I want to do this too, I'm thinking about the Racetech gold valves for the forks as I need to change the oil now anyway. I'm thinking to get a new rear shock at the same time to keep the front and rear balance right. I just have to convince the inner tight arse now, once the other bills are paid.

I've found that the forks get harder over time, probably due to the moisture absorbing into the fork oil, this throws out the balance and makes it harder to turn in. I normally use pre-load setting 4 at the back, I might put it on 5 for a while until I fix the suspension.

 

[bmw675]

I've found that the forks get harder over time, probably due to the moisture absorbing into the fork oil, this throws out the balance and makes it harder to turn in.

The fork oil breaks down over time, and gets "sludgy." Just changing the fork oil makes a world of difference.

 

[Chucker]

If I were you, I'd change the fork oil to 15W and see how you like it. It sounds like the spring rates are probably OK for your weight. The heavier and fresh oil could be the difference you're looking for in the front. The stock oil is 5W, which is really for cartridge forks. It needs to be heavier for damper rods.

 

[Marthy]

From my own experience. I change oil from 5 to 20W, stock spring. It's a bit better on the freeway and initially under braking but not by much. On the other hand riding over bump make the wheel skip a bit. Doesn't bother me too much but to be done right I will suggest you to go with a stiffer spring if you want to support than thicker oil.

Hard to explain the difference. A stiffer spring will need more force to compress. I ticker oil need more time to do the same travel since thicker oil need to pass through the same small hole. A stiffer spring will be a bit more harsh over the bump but still follow the bump, unless you go way too stiff on the spring.

Not sure if it make sense to you. I've been suggested many time to go with the progressive front springs... thing I should have done and might be doing soon. A little over 40K miles here and I'm about due to change fork fluid again. I'll try to do the spring at the same time.

Hope it all make sense to you and help a bit.

 

[linkgt]

Is it relatively easy to change the fork Oil?

 

[Marthy]

Is it relatively easy to change the fork Oil?

Yep. You need to remove them, turn them upside down then fill them up again. As simple as this. There's a measurement that I can't remember (i'll find out later for you) from the top to the oil level required. Just need to find a way to keep the front wheel off the ground to get the job done. I used my red neck stand with a little jack under the headers to do mine. Worked fine!

(Search red neck stand...LOL Consist of 2 regular car stand under the pegs)

 

[linkgt]

Yep. You need to remove them, turn them upside down then fill them up again. As simple as this. There's a measurement that I can't remember (i'll find out later for you) from the top to the oil level required. Just need to find a way to keep the front wheel off the ground to get the job done. I used my red neck stand with a little jack under the headers to do mine. Worked fine!

(Search red neck stand...LOL Consist of 2 regular car stand under the pegs)

Awesome, thanks!

 

[jearnshaw]

From my own experience. I change oil from 5 to 20W, stock spring. It's a bit better on the freeway and initially under braking but not by much. On the other hand riding over bump make the wheel skip a bit. Doesn't bother me too much but to be done right I will suggest you to go with a stiffer spring if you want to support than thicker oil.

Hard to explain the difference. A stiffer spring will need more force to compress. I ticker oil need more time to do the same travel since thicker oil need to pass through the same small hole. A stiffer spring will be a bit more harsh over the bump but still follow the bump, unless you go way too stiff on the spring.

Not sure if it make sense to you. I've been suggested many time to go with the progressive front springs... thing I should have done and might be doing soon. A little over 40K miles here and I'm about due to change fork fluid again. I'll try to do the spring at the same time.

Hope it all make sense to you and help a bit.

No it does make sense...I think I just may read to much into Racetech's website on what the emulators do. Changing the fork oil would be cheap enough to try out first and then go from there... thinking about it I think I believe I have a bottle of 15 weight oil on the shelf at my part time job.

 

[Marthy]

No it does make sense...I think I just may read to much into Racetech's website on what the emulators do. Changing the fork oil would be cheap enough to try out first and then go from there... thinking about it I think I believe I have a bottle of 15 weight oil on the shelf at my part time job.

15W max... I think 10W is the sweet spot with stiffer springs.

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[jearnshaw]

Hmm? So should I worry about just switching shock oil with the stock springs or should I just hold off til I replace the springs as well?

 

[bmw675]

Hmm? So should I worry about just switching shock oil with the stock springs or should I just hold off til I replace the springs as well?

You've got the correct springs already. If racetech's calculator said .88, .90 is the closest.

Just change the fluid, and it'll feel like a new bike again.

 

[Chucker]

I got the right spring rates for my weight, and changed to 15W oil when I did the springs. I was going to install the emulators, but a tech told me to do springs and oil first, then decide on emulators. I'm glad I did as he suggested. With the right springs front and back with 15W oil, it's great. Emulators might make it better, but I don't feel the need any more. The only real difference for the OP will be that (I believe) the stock springs are progressive, and Race Tech are straight rate.

 

[bubbazaay]

I bought a wrecked bike. I got ripped off doesn't matter cause I love this bike. I found that the front fork is leaking and going down the road the triple tree is a little bit at a angle. I might need a whole new fork on the left side. Since I will be doing this. What spring upgrade do I need. I'm a heavy guy at 240 pounds.

 

[Marthy]

Quick question. I got a 6R shock online with 1/4 of the mileage I have on mine... dirt cheap.

I'm thinking of rising the spring rate a bit while Im there. The Racetech website says that I need to go from 9.4 to 19.2 kg/mm. That's 526 to 1060 in/lb!

I'm not a rocket scientist here but that seems to be pretty #&@$ extrem!

Anyone did the upgrade? 10.7 at the limit seems fair (600 in/lb).

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[FastFreddy]

That'd throw the balance out if the front wasn't equally beefed up with shock and spring rate combo.

Reading racers setups over the years, there's 2 basic suspension setup styles :
1. Rock hard front and back, muscle the bike.
2. A bit firmer, still with movement and feel, work with the bike and tyre.

How much harder is your front right now ? Is turn in slow with the current rear spring or does it want to run on straight and you have to fight it ?

 

[Marthy]

That'd throw the balance out if the front wasn't equally beefed up with shock and spring rate combo.

Reading racers setups over the years, there's 2 basic suspension setup styles :
1. Rock hard front and back, muscle the bike.
2. A bit firmer, still with movement and feel, work with the bike and tyre.

How much harder is your front right now ? Is turn in slow with the current rear spring or does it want to run on straight and you have to fight it ?

The front is fine, might just need to adjust preload to set my sag right. But the rear is on the soft side with the luggage and everything. I'm set at 7 on the shock and it's ok. I was thinking going up 50 lbs in spring rate for 2 up mostly.

On the other hand... I've been keeping the 6R for rainy days and my wife to learn on. Starting to think of trading her in and get a FZ07 instead. Better mid range and better MPG. She also struggle with the weight of the 6R even lowered. I could use the 7 for daily commute and the 9 on weekend. Still not sure...

 

[Chucker]

I put a 19.6 kg/mm on mine (I'm 195 LB without gear) and I still run the preload at 4 on the street, 5 on the track. I think the stock is 17.6 kg/mm. I think you'll be fine with 19.2 and you will be running your preload around 3.