OK, this is all my fault and I take the the blame for it. But here is my issue. I bought a tank pad for my bike. Nothing special just a plain jane pad. Well when I went to put it on I did not like the placement so I started to peel it off when I noticed that it was not coming off but instead just the pad part was. The design was completely stuck to the tank. So I bought some super glue and thought I would just glue the pad back down to the design. Well stupid me put to much glue on and when I pressed down some glue oozed out. I grabbed a rag to wipe it up and let me just say that stuff works great but drys to dang fast. So now I have glue on my tank and I have tried some sticker remover and a heat gun to get it but that did not work. Was thinking about goo gone but not sure how that would effect the paint and I looked on line found that nail polish remover works but again not sure if that ruin the paint. Anyone have any ideas?
Super Glue
- Thread starter nlpyle
- Start date
Quite a predicament you got into. 
Goo gone has been reported to haze clear coats and 3M rubbing compound is likely too abrasive. I'm not sure what to suggest. I hope you get it off, and when you do, let us know so that the rest of us know what works without damaging the clear coat.
Good luck! :thumbup:
Goo gone has been reported to haze clear coats and 3M rubbing compound is likely too abrasive. I'm not sure what to suggest. I hope you get it off, and when you do, let us know so that the rest of us know what works without damaging the clear coat.
Good luck! :thumbup:
WIyamirider
New Member
Yes, you'll need some sort of solvent, like nail polish remover, acetone, mineral spirits, etc. to soften up the glue so you can remove it. A solvent is going to be much more harsh on your paint than goo-gone, but if you're very very careful, you should be OK.
The key is to try and contain the solvent to just the glue. Try using a Q-tip dipped in solvent to dab it onto the glue. This may take a couple of applications. You may need something like a razor blade to pick at the glue to get it to come off if it's more of a glob. If you get solvent on the paint, clean it off immediately by dabbing it with a paper towel. Whatever you do, don't rub or wipe the solvent, that may smear the paint.
One benefit of using more powerful solvents is that they tend to evaporate quickly if they are applied thin. As long as you don't continually apply the solvent to one spot (that doesn't have glue), it shouldn't have enough time to really attack the paint. The paint may get soft where the superglue is, but just make sure you don't wipe the area with anything, and have a light touch picking at the glue. Once the glue is gone, let the bike sit for several hours to let the solvent evaporate and let the paint re-harden if it was softened. This way the paint won't smear if you need to buff it or anything.
Doing this is probably really going to suck, and take a lot of time. This is kind of an odd way to practice, but you could try and wipe some superglue on the underside of the tank where it isn't visible and try and clean that first. That way you could see if your method would damage the paint before the glue came off.
The key is to try and contain the solvent to just the glue. Try using a Q-tip dipped in solvent to dab it onto the glue. This may take a couple of applications. You may need something like a razor blade to pick at the glue to get it to come off if it's more of a glob. If you get solvent on the paint, clean it off immediately by dabbing it with a paper towel. Whatever you do, don't rub or wipe the solvent, that may smear the paint.
One benefit of using more powerful solvents is that they tend to evaporate quickly if they are applied thin. As long as you don't continually apply the solvent to one spot (that doesn't have glue), it shouldn't have enough time to really attack the paint. The paint may get soft where the superglue is, but just make sure you don't wipe the area with anything, and have a light touch picking at the glue. Once the glue is gone, let the bike sit for several hours to let the solvent evaporate and let the paint re-harden if it was softened. This way the paint won't smear if you need to buff it or anything.
Doing this is probably really going to suck, and take a lot of time. This is kind of an odd way to practice, but you could try and wipe some superglue on the underside of the tank where it isn't visible and try and clean that first. That way you could see if your method would damage the paint before the glue came off.
I wouldn't recommend testing your cleaning methods on painted metal. Maybe on the fenders that are painted plastic. I would hate for you to remove paint on a metal surface and end up with rust.
Otherwise, what WIyami said is probably going to be a good diy method.
Otherwise, what WIyami said is probably going to be a good diy method.
cbzdel
New Member
you should find an auto detailing forum and post it on there...
Or check this one out...
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=super+glue+on+paint
Or check this one out...
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=super+glue+on+paint
WIyamirider
New Member
I had thought about recommending the inside of the fender or something, but the paint on plastic isn't always the same as the paint on metal. Since the plastic is much more flexible, the paint has to be as well. The paint can often be much softer on plastic. However, if you're successful at removing a test spot on the painted plastic, then you really shouldn't have a problem on the metal tank.
I guess I hadn't figured on removing paint all the way to bare metal. It is certainly a possibility, but you'd have to work pretty hard to remove the clear, base and prime coats. My train of though was if you did the test spot in an inconspicuous spot, like lift the tank and try it on the underside, you could always apply some touch up paint to cover up any bare metal or hide any paint damage.
CGENGO
New Member
OR?
Or you could just buy a larger tank pad and cover up the whole darn mess!!
Or you could just buy a larger tank pad and cover up the whole darn mess!!
You should be able to polish out any dull areas provided you have not cut into the color coat and stayed in the clear coat of the paint. I'm not a professional painter, but I have done a few projects in the past and they turned out well- after a lot of effort. For what I think you'll be dealing with is a hazing of the clear coat. To remove this, try a product from 3M labeled "Finesse-it, extra fine." Go to a professional automotive paint supply store (not NAPA, Checkers, O'Rielly's, etc.) and they will be able to hook you up. If they do not carry a 3M product line, ask what they have that will resolve your situation. Better yet, take your bike and have them look at it. What do they recommend?
If you do get into the color coat, well... talk to a painter and see if they would be willing to repaint it (small job=high $$$) or buy a larger tank pad like CGENCGO suggested (not a bad idea!)
Good luck and let us know how you did.
If you do get into the color coat, well... talk to a painter and see if they would be willing to repaint it (small job=high $$$) or buy a larger tank pad like CGENCGO suggested (not a bad idea!)
Good luck and let us know how you did.
Bigevildoer
New Member
Simple....
Get honest to goodness super glue remover...
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1418920
This is just a link I found quickly in google... your local hardware shop should carry it...