SMH10 on Bell RS1


BKP

New Member
Finally got around to installing one of the Sena's onto my new Bell RS1 helmet... and realized (quickly) that since the neck roll is not removable, there's no way to slide the clamp onto the shell.

Soooo... for those of you that currently have that configuration on an RS1 (I believe the Vortex and Star may be the same), any hints on how you do it? I haven't looked into it too deeply yet (and know there has to be a solution), however, thought I'd ask here -- I know some of you own the same helmet, and similar communicator...

Thanks...
 

BoneJj

Well-Known Member
Finally got around to installing one of the Sena's onto my new Bell RS1 helmet... and realized (quickly) that since the neck roll is not removable, there's no way to slide the clamp onto the shell.

Soooo... for those of you that currently have that configuration on an RS1 (I believe the Vortex and Star may be the same), any hints on how you do it? I haven't looked into it too deeply yet (and know there has to be a solution), however, thought I'd ask here -- I know some of you own the same helmet, and similar communicator...

Thanks...
there should be a couple voids that you can get into and slide it in there that way. at least I have one void on mine that would work. check both sides.
 

BKP

New Member
The cheek pads have voids, but the neck roll is solid all the way around -- checked carefully both sides. Due to the nature of the SMH5, or 10 (it's a 5, not a 10, as in the title of the thread), it can only mount on the left side (otherwise the wire harness will be even gorkier than necessary, and the jog dial will be forward (which doesn't work for me).

Either way, the wires wrap around the neck roll -- not ideal. Love the helmet, hate the neck roll -- might have to improvise with a scalpel and epoxy -- also not ideal... but $hit happens... There's also the stick on alternative, rather than the clamp (comes with it). However, even Sena disavows any responsibility if you go that route, in their User Guide...

(I'll get it... love challenges...)
 

BoneJj

Well-Known Member
The cheek pads have voids, but the neck roll is solid all the way around -- checked carefully both sides. Due to the nature of the SMH5, or 10 (it's a 5, not a 10, as in the title of the thread), it can only mount on the left side (otherwise the wire harness will be even gorkier than necessary, and the jog dial will be forward (which doesn't work for me).

Either way, the wires wrap around the neck roll -- not ideal. Love the helmet, hate the neck roll -- might have to improvise with a scalpel and epoxy -- also not ideal... but $hit happens... There's also the stick on alternative, rather than the clamp (comes with it). However, even Sena disavows any responsibility if you go that route, in their User Guide...

(I'll get it... love challenges...)
I have the same helmet and I have no issue with that. I would just have to poke a small hole through right above the neck roll and slide the cable through. My Styrofoam inside actually separates from the helmet on the left side a little so it's not an issue for me. The neck roll and everything come off the side of the helmet shell a little bit in that area. I probably should epoxy that down though but I haven't. I've had the helmet about a year now though and it's always been like that.
 

BKP

New Member
Thanks.
That's actually what I ended up doing. The SMH5 wire harness is not attached, like the SMH10, so, I just used a razor, and opened a 2 cm slit right where the neck roll meets the shell. The cable harness connector slipped through from the inside, so the speakers (I used the larger SMH5 upgraded), and mic wire are all inside, and nothing's wrapped around the neck roll. The adhesive adapter on the 5 is actually much wider coverage, since the 5 is a smaller unit, so that works as well, and don't have to worry about getting the clamp between the shell and neck roll.

One drop of epoxy on the two corners of the slit sealed it. Looks great, nice and secure, no wires showing or wrapped around anything visible.

Still would have preferred a removable neck roll, but otherwise, I'm *really* pleased with the lid. I'll do a full review on it after I put a few hundred miles on it.
 

ajskillz13

New Member
I have the same issue, but I haven't had any problems just having the wire come out of the back left quarter of the helmet and wrapping over the neck roll. I never feel the wire with it coming out by the back of my neck. I don't have the Sena though, so I'm not sure how the wire compares to my UClear. I don't have to worry about a mic wire, so maybe that allows me to have it positioned farther back.

Nice to know a small slit will work though.
 

BoneJj

Well-Known Member
I have the same issue, but I haven't had any problems just having the wire come out of the back left quarter of the helmet and wrapping over the neck roll. I never feel the wire with it coming out by the back of my neck. I don't have the Sena though, so I'm not sure how the wire compares to my UClear. I don't have to worry about a mic wire, so maybe that allows me to have it positioned farther back.

Nice to know a small slit will work though.
small slits always work...

bazinga
 

Zero

New Member
I had no problem removing the neck roll on my RS-1. It is only held in by some serrated tabs that dig into the foam on the helmet shell. You can gently slip a thin piece of plastic in between the roll and the shell, and then move it sideways around the perimeter to work these tabs free. Took me an extra five minutes while installing my SMH10. Good luck.
 


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