New Bike Break In
- Thread starter lolKnee
- Start date
S
SkyOrDie
Hi boys and girls, I’m Jimmy Carl Black… no, that isn’t right, I’m Stan. If you get the reference, though, you can probably guess my demographic! I just picked up an ’11 FZ6R last Monday with 0 on the odometer and 0.6 miles on the trip meter. Got her home on a Monday night and there she sat until Saturday morning. That was difficult. I work a 4/10. New bike in the garage and too late, too tired to ride. First impressions? Low speed maneuvering is very stabile and easy. The motor’s smoother than monkey snot.
Saturday I did a couple break-in runs. Lots of accel/decel between 4 and 6K. 3K felt too luggy for any significant throttle. I accidentally did the “WOT test.” From WOT I backed off to about 7/8ths throttle and the bike felt like the acceleration increased. In a carb’d bike this would mean the main jet was too lean. I’ll see if this goes away after it’s broken in, but I suspect the stock map is just way lean. Sunday I did the same thing letting it go to 7K. I’m sneaking up on 200 lbs, so I set the shock preload to “5” and it seems ok. The front is soft. I’ll probably do something about that soon. I’m 5’10”. I tried both and like the higher seat position better. The handlebars came in the back position and that’s fine.
Changed oil at 102 miles. Yammie filter and Valvoline dino motorcycle oil. Cheap oil, but it won’t be in there long. I’m not putting car oil in like Motoman says. The old oil was pretty glittery, but not as bad as what came out of my DRZ400 at 100 miles. I think Yamaha hires retired sumo wrestlers to torque stuff on. The drain bolt was TIGHT. When it wouldn’t come off when I expected it to, I put a torque wrench on it. It didn’t break at 60 ft-lbs, but did at 70. After hearing about trouble with the filter, I started the torque wrench at 30, but it came off with that. Luckily I already had a 65mm/14 flute end cap wrench. It’s the same size as my wife’s Subaru!
It’s interesting that in the ’09 factory service manual, under engine oil, it says “Total = 3.59 qts, oil change without filter change = 2.64 qts and oil change with filter change = 2.96 qts.” This means 0.63 quarts or 17% of the dirty oil stays in the engine. Bummer. I took the bike off the stand, rocked it around and only got a little bit more oil out of both the filter and drain holes. I refilled with the full 3 quarts and it’s sitting right on the full mark. To me this means the extra dirty oil you get out by leaning the bike around isn’t that big a deal since there’s a significant amount of dirty oil that’s going to stay in there anyway. Of course, "I’M" going to go to the extra trouble.
I was disappointed to learn that the Yammie filters have cardboard end caps like the crappy Frams. The Purolator PL14612 looks like the way to go. If you’re worried about too much oil pressure with this higher efficiency filter, handle it with the larger surface area of the PL14610. My only problem with them is that they’re yellow. YELLOW! I’ll probably go with a Mobil-1 filter next time. Dino oil until 1000 miles, then probably Mobil-1.
-Stan
Saturday I did a couple break-in runs. Lots of accel/decel between 4 and 6K. 3K felt too luggy for any significant throttle. I accidentally did the “WOT test.” From WOT I backed off to about 7/8ths throttle and the bike felt like the acceleration increased. In a carb’d bike this would mean the main jet was too lean. I’ll see if this goes away after it’s broken in, but I suspect the stock map is just way lean. Sunday I did the same thing letting it go to 7K. I’m sneaking up on 200 lbs, so I set the shock preload to “5” and it seems ok. The front is soft. I’ll probably do something about that soon. I’m 5’10”. I tried both and like the higher seat position better. The handlebars came in the back position and that’s fine.
Changed oil at 102 miles. Yammie filter and Valvoline dino motorcycle oil. Cheap oil, but it won’t be in there long. I’m not putting car oil in like Motoman says. The old oil was pretty glittery, but not as bad as what came out of my DRZ400 at 100 miles. I think Yamaha hires retired sumo wrestlers to torque stuff on. The drain bolt was TIGHT. When it wouldn’t come off when I expected it to, I put a torque wrench on it. It didn’t break at 60 ft-lbs, but did at 70. After hearing about trouble with the filter, I started the torque wrench at 30, but it came off with that. Luckily I already had a 65mm/14 flute end cap wrench. It’s the same size as my wife’s Subaru!
It’s interesting that in the ’09 factory service manual, under engine oil, it says “Total = 3.59 qts, oil change without filter change = 2.64 qts and oil change with filter change = 2.96 qts.” This means 0.63 quarts or 17% of the dirty oil stays in the engine. Bummer. I took the bike off the stand, rocked it around and only got a little bit more oil out of both the filter and drain holes. I refilled with the full 3 quarts and it’s sitting right on the full mark. To me this means the extra dirty oil you get out by leaning the bike around isn’t that big a deal since there’s a significant amount of dirty oil that’s going to stay in there anyway. Of course, "I’M" going to go to the extra trouble.
I was disappointed to learn that the Yammie filters have cardboard end caps like the crappy Frams. The Purolator PL14612 looks like the way to go. If you’re worried about too much oil pressure with this higher efficiency filter, handle it with the larger surface area of the PL14610. My only problem with them is that they’re yellow. YELLOW! I’ll probably go with a Mobil-1 filter next time. Dino oil until 1000 miles, then probably Mobil-1.
-Stan