New Bike Break In

[lolKnee]

I read two competing theories on how best to break in a new bike on this website.

1) Keep it low rpm for first few hundred miles and petro oil up until 1500

2) Ride it like you stole it. Change the oil after 20 miles.

Does anyone have any further advice. I found both of these ideas to be popular when I did a google search.

 

[BrueThru]

Keep the tach under 7k for the first 500 miles.

Change the oil and filter.

Then ride it like you stole it.

 

[Michael Wilson]

I took the high RPM route. If you want something to break you want it to break now while its under warrenty. enough said? :welcome:

 

[roadrat]

My 2011 manual says avoid prolonged operation over 5800 RPM for the first 600 miles, then change oil. Then no prolonged operation over 7000 rpm to 1000 miles. The manual says that in the first 1000 miles the various parts in the engine wear and polish themselves to the correct operating clearances, and overheating should be avoided.

That being said, I was a good boy for the first 600 miles, not sure what's gonna happen next cuz I really have the itch.

 

[Deanohh]

"Prolonged" is the key word. Shift points at 7-7500 rpm and operating in 5-7k rpm inbetween conforms to that and gives you a pretty zippy ride. After 600 miles, 8k shift points and 5-8k rpm riding is within the manual guidelines, right? That's not hard to put up with. Thats what I did and no problems. Also changed oil at 200, 600 and 1000 miles.

 

[lolKnee]

yup, this seems to be the rub here.

What is prolonged? 30 seconds? a 2 mile straight away? an hour long drive?

Some race driver wrote an article someone else posted (I will try and find it and repost) where he ran a new bike according to the manual and showed how after 1000 miles or so the cylinders looked worse for wear.

I like the idea of figuring out what is going to break by kicking some ass right away. However, not breaking it in right could lead to long term problems that don't manifest until after warranty.

My dealer is also a mechanic shop and so I feel he doesn't have a ton of reasons for my bike not to break down. I am a bit cynical, but what can I say.

Where I live I will deal with a bunch of stop and go traffic every day so I am forced to ride, for the most part, as the conditions dictate. In the meanwhile, I guess I will just do my best to follow the advice of the manual, keep the rpms down as some posters here suggested and wait a month or so before I take her upstate and air her our.

 

[Deleted member 9794]

Can anybody answer this: Why don't manufacturers do this before we get the bikes?!

Maybe that question deserves it's own thread as I can think up plenty of conspiracy theories but maybe someone has a simple answer.

 

[ksanbon]

Can anybody answer this: Why don't manufacturers do this before we get the bikes?!

I'm not sure how they'd do it. Any ideas?
I doubt many people want to buy a "new" bike w/ 1000 miles or a "new" bike w/ a motor that's been run under load for 14+ hours @ 6000 - 7000 rpm.

 

[Fizzer6R]

some of the high end ones do, like MV Agusta. I have a DVD show of their factory, all the engines are dyno'd to ensure they achieve their rated HP/TQ. same for high end autos.

I took a live tour of the Corvette factory in KY, they drive em right over to the dyno once complete and run em up to speed.

I'm assuming the high production numbers of the Jap. makes would be way too cost and time to do this to every bike, car...

 

[Deleted member 9794]

I'm not sure how they'd do it. Any ideas?
I doubt many people want to buy a "new" bike w/ 1000 miles or a "new" bike w/ a motor that's been run under load for 14+ hours @ 6000 - 7000 rpm.

I'm not sure, that may the be answer as to why they don't. I assume (and hope) that they stress test the engine in some manner so why not stress test it until the engine is "broken in"?

some of the high end ones do, like MV Agusta.
...
I'm assuming the high production numbers of the Jap. makes would be way too cost and time to do this to every bike, car...

This may also be the reason... maybe fuel is just too expensive for everybody

 

[herbie]

"Prolonged" is the key word. Shift points at 7-7500 rpm and operating in 5-7k rpm inbetween conforms to that and gives you a pretty zippy ride. After 600 miles, 8k shift points and 5-8k rpm riding is within the manual guidelines, right? That's not hard to put up with. Thats what I did and no problems. Also changed oil at 200, 600 and 1000 miles.

This was the route i took just remember if you abuse it it will abuse you

 

[jocampo]

Sorry for bringing this thread back to life...

Today I had my 1st bike's service at Yamaha dealer. I asked the service guy for an advice in terms of rpms and breakin, after this oil change and he said, "drive it like stolen" ... but what about the 7k rpm suggestion in the manual?

I usually shift at 5k and do city driving mostly. But wonder if taking it to 10k or so in highway would hurt the bike.

The bikes has 640 miles on it now.

Any comments?

 

[Bloke]

10k is only 1k below redline. I'd take it easy until a thousand.

manufacturers don't like repairing things for free in warranty periods, i'd follow their advice.

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk

 

[jocampo]

10k is only 1k below redline. I'd take it easy until a thousand.

manufacturers don't like repairing things for free in warranty periods, i'd follow their advice.

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk

Define easy, please? ... you mean, keeping revs no higher than 8k? Like I said, I have not ride on highways because the breakin, so not so sure what the engine needs for cruise speed at legal speed, 7k maybe? on 6th gear and 70mph?

 

[Millhouse]

With stock gearing I think 70mph puts me just over 6000rpm's in 6th. Your really not going to hurt the thing especially with 640 miles on it. Go tac it out and have fun. Mine saw 10k+ rpm's by the time it had 300 miles on it It now has over 2000 on it now and no problems. No use of oil or anything. Think about how many times that little crank spins to carry you 600 miles... your good bro!

 

[Marthy]

Stop milking it... drive like you stole it like he said. Rev it up in 1st & 2nd. Acceleration and deceleration is fine... it's good for your engine. The 6R engine run at 60% capacity compare to what it's design. It's a FZ6 and R6 detune (twice...lol) Our bike is bullet proof... just enjoy it! You will feel the engine "loosing up" after a while...

 

[jocampo]

Yep,

Took highway and went to a close B&N for a coffee and relax a bit. About 10 min highway maybe? Cruising at 70mph is about 7k rpm. It was fantastic! This is my third bike but coming from a screaming engine like the Ninja 250, this bike felt great. What a blast!

I won't say I would never buy a different bike later, but this engine will give me plenty of fun for oncoming years. I do not see a reason for more power in the near future.

Very stable, smooth and plenty of kick even at 6th gear.

 

[SkyOrDie]

but which oil?

I agree with the method of being generous with the throttle and doing a lot of accel/ decel all while staying well clear of the redline. What I have trouble with, though, is the recommendation of using regular CAR oil for the first 1500 miles: The Sportbike / Super Sport Motorcycle Breakin Period
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

Car oil? What about our clutches? What about the other additives we’re told we need? I’d feel better using dino-but-motorcycle oil. Did anyone use car oil for their break-in?

-Stan

 

[Detrich]

i would say, just follow the owners manual and then get the 600 mile service done by a reputable dealership. 600 service involves more than just an oil change. so, i would recommend have the dealer do it. they check almost everything- ie the torquing of all major bolts, adjusting the brakes/ clutch lines, tire pressure, chain, and do a bunch of things that are necessary for a new bike that was assembled by god-knows-which teenage moron half awake when they did it...

when i first got my R6, the center bolt of the triple clamp actually came loose after a few weeks! plus, the clutch action and brakes were also dialed way, way off. it was hard enough getting used to a new bike, much less one where the friction zone was so difficult to find. *** my friends helped me torque the bolt down and adjust the clutch a little. but, then after Pasadena Yamaha did the 600 mile service, the bike rode SO much better- night and day difference. for those who care, although I bought the bike used, the first owner bought the bike from DEL ALMO MOTORSPORTS, who clearly don't have a f'ing clue about how to assemble and setup a bike properly, apparently. lol... scary shit!

 

[SkyOrDie]

Wha?

I'm sorry. What is this "reputable dealership" to which you refer? I'm unfamiliar with that term. I don't think we have any of those things around here or else I would have heard about them.

I don't think I could sleep at night if I handed over my bike to an underpaid mechanic who hates his boss. There may other items that are supposed to be done at the 600 mile service, but are they actually done? I bet nine times out of ten they are not. Also, 600 miles?!? There's no way I'm going to let that particle-laden oil circulate for 600 miles! Have you ever looked at the oil out of a new engine? I'd want to change it at 25 miles and would have to twist my own arm to make it to 100 miles before the first change. I have 53,000 miles on my old bike which was broken in this way and it has perfect compression.

The manufacturer has goals different than the end user. Their manuals reflect their goals and longevity is not one of them.

-Stan