new bike break-in question

[yillbs]

I noticed when use the rear break any type of heavy, it almost feels like it's grinding, and i can feel tons of feedback in the rear break peg. I was assuming this was just normal for brand new roaters.

Also, I know im not sposed to cruise over 6k , but I had to drive the bike home from dealer, it was all freeway, it was texas freeway at that, we have posted limits of 75 where I was.. so that means traffic was going like 85 - 90, anyways, i didn't want to push it, so i stuck to the featers and did around 60-65 ish. however, on those occasions when i did get to, or break 70 , i noticed significantly more vibration when cruising at those speeds, I only cruised there for minimal amounts of time, but it was noticeable. Is this normal for you guys who cruise at 70-80 MPS, higher seat vibrations, and general vibes?

 

[EsrTek]

The brakes, I did not notice any odd feelings, and I use rear all the time.
The vibrations are normal for the bike in the 8k+ rev range.. traveling at 80+ (indicated) for 20 mins will get my fingers and hand on my throttle side so numb, I can not feel what it is doing anymore.

 

[BKP]

I noticed when use the rear break any type of heavy, it almost feels like it's grinding, and i can feel tons of feedback in the rear break peg. I was assuming this was just normal for brand new roaters.

Also, I know im not sposed to cruise over 6k , but I had to drive the bike home from dealer, it was all freeway, it was texas freeway at that, we have posted limits of 75 where I was.. so that means traffic was going like 85 - 90, anyways, i didn't want to push it, so i stuck to the featers and did around 60-65 ish. however, on those occasions when i did get to, or break 70 , i noticed significantly more vibration when cruising at those speeds, I only cruised there for minimal amounts of time, but it was noticeable. Is this normal for you guys who cruise at 70-80 MPS, higher seat vibrations, and general vibes?

As for the rear brake, I wouldn't be stomping that "heavy" at all. It's a supplemental brake, and the purposes for its use are relatively few. Your front brake is your primary... Many riders don't ever touch the rear.

As for cruising over 6k, during break-in, there are a couple schools of thought (which you can find with a search here). One (which I have always subscribed to, and has served me well) is to ride it hard out of the gate. As long as you don't redline it, or lug it, you can (and IMHO *should) take it all over the tach. After 12k miles on this bike with that philosophy, I ride it hard, have zero issues, well-seated rings, clean valves, and I'm now getting mid-50's mpg with a 50/50 hwy/city ratio.

Your vibes will increase once the tach goes over 6k. At 7k and above it can be somewhat buzzy. If this is what you're talking about, it's normal. If you're talking about significantly more Harley-type bucking and shaking, that is *not* normal. I'd check:
1- tire pressure
2- chain tensioning
3- rear wheel alignment (make sure the markers match on both sides, which can go off after the chain has been tensioned.

Good luck, and congrats on the new bike.

 

[yillbs]

thanks

Extremely helpful, and good knowledge. I'm not really using the rear break, when i say heavy breaking, I really mean using it more than 2% if at all, I can feel the vibrations in the peg even when just placing my foot on it, which is why i was asking. I should have given a bit more description instead of sounding like a noob.

As far as the break in, I've read probably 10 threads on different perspectives, and i've come to my own conclusion on how I want to break it in. Im keeping it below 6k for the first hundred miles, then im just going to drive it as i normally do, I would not normally red line it anyways, Im probably being a noob with the 100 mile thing, but that's just how I want to do it.

As far as the vibes, no, it's not harley like at all. More or less I was asking if ANY vibes are normal. It's almost like riding on a cloud until you get past 6k, s I was wondering if she's so smooth, should she have the same smoothness across the power band, Obviously that was somewhat of a stupid question, as the bike comes to life above 6k, so of course there are going to be high vibes. In hinesight i feel stupid for even creating the thread. Anyways, good advice, much appreciated, :thumbup:

As for the rear brake, I wouldn't be stomping that "heavy" at all. It's a supplemental brake, and the purposes for its use are relatively few. Your front brake is your primary... Many riders don't ever touch the rear.

As for cruising over 6k, during break-in, there are a couple schools of thought (which you can find with a search here). One (which I have always subscribed to, and has served me well) is to ride it hard out of the gate. As long as you don't redline it, or lug it, you can (and IMHO *should) take it all over the tach. After 12k miles on this bike with that philosophy, I ride it hard, have zero issues, well-seated rings, clean valves, and I'm now getting mid-50's mpg with a 50/50 hwy/city ratio.

Your vibes will increase once the tach goes over 6k. At 7k and above it can be somewhat buzzy. If this is what you're talking about, it's normal. If you're talking about significantly more Harley-type bucking and shaking, that is *not* normal. I'd check:
1- tire pressure
2- chain tensioning
3- rear wheel alignment (make sure the markers match on both sides, which can go off after the chain has been tensioned.

Good luck, and congrats on the new bike.

 

[anticsd]

Break-in = drive it like you stole it, but don't red line. Reason that manufacturers/dealers suggest you take it easy is because they don't want to be liable for your accident. (We are in a country that loves to sue for anything)

If your new to bikes I suggest going in a empty parking lot and practice feathering the clutch low speed turns and warming your gears around 7k. (5k - 7k for the best mpg results)

Also fz6r suspension isn't race quality so vibrations are normal at high speeds(It's noticeable if you don't wear gloves with padding and ride). If vibrations seriously bother you then either get a bike with brembo/ohlins suspension or a heavy bike like a cruiser.

Lastly, your tires needs a break in period too. (I think its 100 miles or something) It could be slick tires not having traction in the rear causing vibrations when you apply it, or your flooring the rear brake or combination of both.

Have fun on the bike!

 

[CrazyCawi]

As for the rear brake, I wouldn't be stomping that "heavy" at all. It's a supplemental brake, and the purposes for its use are relatively few. Your front brake is your primary... Many riders don't ever touch the rear.

I highly disagree.
1. The rear brake should be used primarily IMO based upon the impact difference of the force applied slowing you down. To properly stop you should use the front brake and rear brake equally when coming to a stop.
2. if you focus your mind on the front brake being primary, when you encounter a emergency situation your autonomic response will be to rip the front brake, your front end will buck down and cause you to more than likely crash.
3. riders who never touch the rear brake are un-educated on the function of braking and how it should be done.

 

[yillbs]

Thanks for the info. However, I think your taking my questions as an assumption that I don't know how to ride. It's a new bike, and as with a new bike I was curious as to how it should feel above 6k. I've never owned a brand new bike, let alone this bike, so the best way to find out is to ask other riders. While I am not a SS race kinda guy, I have a few years under my belt.

Break-in = drive it like you stole it, but don't red line. Reason that manufacturers/dealers suggest you take it easy is because they don't want to be liable for your accident. (We are in a country that loves to sue for anything)

If your new to bikes I suggest going in a empty parking lot and practice feathering the clutch low speed turns and warming your gears around 7k. (5k - 7k for the best mpg results)

Also fz6r suspension isn't race quality so vibrations are normal at high speeds(It's noticeable if you don't wear gloves with padding and ride). If vibrations seriously bother you then either get a bike with brembo/ohlins suspension or a heavy bike like a cruiser.

Lastly, your tires needs a break in period too. (I think its 100 miles or something) It could be slick tires not having traction in the rear causing vibrations when you apply it, or your flooring the rear brake or combination of both.

Have fun on the bike!

 

[yillbs]

I think he means more or less the front brake is what provides most of the stopping power. Which, I agree with, I really don't think about using either brake. It just comes, sometimes it's a mixture of back, front, sometimes it's more back than front, and sometimes it's only front, it really depends on how fast I am going. If im coming to a stop sign while in neutral going 10 MPH, i'll poke the front break a few times, and glide to a stop. I am sure many people have different views on this matter, yours clearly makes the most sense, but people who have said views usually are very " set " in there ways thanks for the infoz tho.

I highly disagree.
1. The rear brake should be used primarily IMO based upon the impact difference of the force applied slowing you down. To properly stop you should use the front brake and rear brake equally when coming to a stop.
2. if you focus your mind on the front brake being primary, when you encounter a emergency situation your autonomic response will be to rip the front brake, your front end will buck down and cause you to more than likely crash.
3. riders who never touch the rear brake are un-educated on the function of braking and how it should be done.

 

[CrazyCawi]

I think he means more or less the front brake is what provides most of the stopping power. Which, I agree with, I really don't think about using either brake. It just comes, sometimes it's a mixture of back, front, sometimes it's more back than front, and sometimes it's only front, it really depends on how fast I am going. If im coming to a stop sign while in neutral going 10 MPH, i'll poke the front break a few times, and glide to a stop. I am sure many people have different views on this matter, yours clearly makes the most sense, but people who have said views usually are very " set " in there ways thanks for the infoz tho.

you should never be in neutral coming to a stop? If someone comes up behind you fast as your coming to a stop, they don't see you, how to you get out of the way? You wont have enough reaction time to flip it down into first and go. Always pull your clutch in at a stop and keep it in first. You can do what you want, but thats the best way to stay safe at a stoplight IMO. I only criticize your statement because I want you to be safe, not because I'm a know-it-all prick, contrary to some people on here's beliefs about me.

 

[yellowfz]

I think he means more or less the front brake is what provides most of the stopping power. Which, I agree with, I really don't think about using either brake. It just comes, sometimes it's a mixture of back, front, sometimes it's more back than front, and sometimes it's only front, it really depends on how fast I am going. If im coming to a stop sign while in neutral going 10 MPH, i'll poke the front break a few times, and glide to a stop. I am sure many people have different views on this matter, yours clearly makes the most sense, but people who have said views usually are very " set " in there ways thanks for the infoz tho.

Sounds like a good way to utilize breaks.
A good rider will use the rear break more than the front, some good riders never notice the fact that they use the rear way more than the front, until they replace break pads, but you do.
Like I told my wife when I was teaching her to ride, front break is for fast stop used in unison with the rear, you can use both but use the rear first when coming to a stop and then apply the front for shortening the stopping distance.
Coming to a stop in neutral is okay to do, rarely has anyone been hit from the rear coming to a stop at a red light that being in gear would have made a difference. I hate holding the clutch at red lights.

 

[yillbs]

I don't get offended, ever. It's like you said, its a matter of who does what. Obviously, going into extreme detail about every situation isn't possible. Granted, I still have tons to learn, I don't ride on a daily basis, and I like everyone need to learn a few things. The above made statement was more or less an example, however, I have done it, and I unfortunately thinking about it now, have made it a habbit. something I need to fix.

you should never be in neutral coming to a stop? If someone comes up behind you fast as your coming to a stop, they don't see you, how to you get out of the way? You wont have enough reaction time to flip it down into first and go. Always pull your clutch in at a stop and keep it in first. You can do what you want, but thats the best way to stay safe at a stoplight IMO. I only criticize your statement because I want you to be safe, not because I'm a know-it-all prick, contrary to some people on here's beliefs about me.

 

[CrazyCawi]

I don't get offended, ever. It's like you said, its a matter of who does what. Obviously, going into extreme detail about every situation isn't possible. Granted, I still have tons to learn, I don't ride on a daily basis, and I like everyone need to learn a few things. The above made statement was more or less an example, however, I have done it, and I unfortunately thinking about it now, have made it a habbit. something I need to fix.

Keep in mind, you also have better control of your bike in gear because you have the throttle, engine braking, and your brakes all to your advantage, where as in neutral....your a sitting duck with only brake usage.

 

[yillbs]

Well, I don't really put it into neutral until im within 10-20 feet of the stop, but regardless, you are correct. Thanks for the infoz!

Keep in mind, you also have better control of your bike in gear because you have the throttle, engine braking, and your brakes all to your advantage, where as in neutral....your a sitting duck with only brake usage.

 

[yellowfz]

Well, I don't really put it into neutral until im within 10-20 feet of the stop, but regardless, you are correct. Thanks for the infoz!

It is okay to do the neutral thing really. DO a search as to how many people have been hit at a red light while in neutral, bet there are more that were in gear than in neutral.

 

[CrazyCawi]

It is okay to do the neutral thing really. DO a search as to how many people have been hit at a red light while in neutral, bet there are more that were in gear than in neutral.

it may be an anomaly but I would rather be more safe in control rather than a rare statistic. :thumbup:

 

[EsrTek]

Some ppl seem to assume they will see it coming, and be able to utilize the split second to move by being in gear already.
However, if you don't see it and in gear, the jerk will most likely cause a slight, if not full, release of the clutch. Bike will lurch forward, throw off balance at least and help play a part in dropping it. Or worse and the jerk is so hard you gas it as you release clutch and definitely wreck.

Point is, there is pros and cons to both sides of coin.. evaluate your situation and act accordingly. Getting in 1 habit or the other is just as bad.

 

[latony007]

vibes

well back to the original question I only have 600 miles on mine so far and have never felt any vibration from the rear brake. Which I do use all the time, as some said I use it in conjunction with the front especially on a casual stop. As for the break in, I figured I bought a brand new bike because I didn't want to have to worry about any problems or breakdowns so doing close to advised seemed like a good idea. I kept it under 6k for the first 300 then went up to 7k, now over 600 im just riding as normal.

 

[yillbs]

thanks

Thanks, just wanted to see what other new bike owners though of it.

well back to the original question I only have 600 miles on mine so far and have never felt any vibration from the rear brake. Which I do use all the time, as some said I use it in conjunction with the front especially on a casual stop. As for the break in, I figured I bought a brand new bike because I didn't want to have to worry about any problems or breakdowns so doing close to advised seemed like a good idea. I kept it under 6k for the first 300 then went up to 7k, now over 600 im just riding as normal.

 

[BKP]

I highly disagree.
1. The rear brake should be used primarily IMO based upon the impact difference of the force applied slowing you down. To properly stop you should use the front brake and rear brake equally when coming to a stop.
2. if you focus your mind on the front brake being primary, when you encounter a emergency situation your autonomic response will be to rip the front brake, your front end will buck down and cause you to more than likely crash.
3. riders who never touch the rear brake are un-educated on the function of braking and how it should be done.

Yep, 'tis true. And, I've been in enough emergency stops to agree that using *both* brakes in *that* situation is one I'd recommend. I also use trail braking at times coming through turns when it's called for, however, I wouldn't recommend that to someone first starting out.

However, I've also read enough threads about this to see that many riders don't use their rear brake at all... whether or not anyone agrees with this practice (and I don't) it's a matter of record. The point to the OP, was in terms of what seemed to be almost a primary use of the rear brake, which by most estimates makes up <10% of your braking force on the majority of bikes...

Just to expand on the break-in question (and this is simply IMHO), after 100 miles "break-in" is superfluous. What you are trying to do, during break-in is create heat cycles. That's what is going to seat your rings properly. If you were to take your bike in to get dyno'd, when new, it would be broken in by the time the dyno was over -- maybe 30 to 40 minutes. A dyno will take it up and down the tach, and create those heat cycles. I believe that 600-1000 mile thing is nonsense, and as someone here already mentioned, it's more a liability (read: CYA) thing for the manufacturer, than a practical automotive procedure. But, again, that's just my own take... YMMV.

 

[Riccochet]

Street bike = Front brake
Dirt bike = Rear brake

that's been my experience