ledunderbody.com light kit install


Rob

'Q'
Elite Member

daddyrack

Senior Member
Premium Member

JT

Monster Member
Elite Member

Rob

'Q'
Elite Member

BoneJj

Well-Known Member
Rob, you should have waiting for my install to be finished. Granted my pods are a little more crude but they will get the job done and have a lot more light for lesser costs.

I have 20 bucks for the LEDs, 16.40 for the controller (2dollar for a longer plug) and 5 bucks for the wire (bought a big box that I will also use for other projects), I also go some molex connectors to make it easier for removal of fairings (waterproof as well). This way I can connect and disconnect right at the fairings, those were 7.40 for a 10 pack of which I will only use 6 of them.

So all in all, $45.44 and it's a lot more light. The LEDs I have are 5050 LEDs which run about 20mA each but I have 60 individual LEDs. The whole system only draws 1.2A at 12.4V I do need to toss in a 3 pin 12V voltage regulator though with a couple filtering caps to make sure that I'm not over powering the system though during various points in the bikes rev range.

I'm setting up a couple/few bikes as well so it's okay that I have extra parts at this time.

I think you could have easily gotten away with a brighter system for less though. It looks like those are 5050 RGB LEDs in your tubes, which is pretty much what I have, they are just pods of 3. So 20 total pods = 60 RGB LEDs. Your setup has 6x6=36, ans that equates to a big price difference IMO.

Not knocking the system just saying with a little more work you could have spent less for more light. I actually have 2 of the 20pack pods and I'm considering splitting the other set to make it 30 pods at a total of 55.44 for the whole system. I might just end up mounting 3 pods in the same spots to make for EXTRA light in that zone, lol.

I do however like the USB plug setup but my concern with that is waterproofing. If the wires coming out of each pod aren't sealed well were the plug goes into the pod that could be bad news for a short if you get stuck in the rain. Also the same goes for the main box you are putting under the rear seat, if you get that wet it looks like it could easily short out. I would probably hot snot those connections in areas that aren't going to be exposed to heat and then the rest epoxy for areas that will see heat.
 

Rob

'Q'
Elite Member

BoneJj

Well-Known Member
True, but with some mods I have done lately that required lots more finagling and time that i thought they would take, I got to the point where I did not want to mess with a custom setup lol. The appeal of having a complete set, and one that would be easy to take on and off was enough for me to shell out a few extra bucks. plus i love all the extra lighting modes it has. i'm curious to see how your setup comes out though. sounds like a pretty slick setup for not much $$$.

the waterproof part does concern me though. i searched for the "hot snot" stuff you mentioned but couldn't find anything online. i saw rhino snot and other similar names that came up in search results but couldn't actually find a product that looked like what you were describing. is that something that i could apply to each led strip's connection port then remove the cable when need be and plug it back in and still have a sealed port?
hot snot is hot glue gun... LOL. So yeah, you want to make sure that you only use it in areas where heat wont be an issue. Heat areas you will want to use something like an epoxy.

I can understand wanting a plug and play system but for the ones I looked at that I would be willing to buy I didn't like the price of them at all. Knowing LEDs I tend to be rather critical of what's out there and the ones that use good LEDs are high priced.

I was going to make my own system but then I would be waiting forever to install it as I would end up having 6 designs before finally deciding on one. Hence my current power regulator issues that I'm running into now, power regulation is a pain in the butt when you want to do it right. I'm setting up to supply my system with only 12V power and nothing over and even have spikes buffered out. This way I can ensure that the system last a lot longer.

I was actually running some of my other custom jobs earlier and realized that I need to dial back the power on them a little, getting a bit hot on them... lol.

LEDs are a tricky SOG, the key is getting the light output without running the LEDs too hot and that's where a lot of the cheaper systems come into play. They just run the LEDs too hot and have no self power regulation, like the ones you have and the ones I have my concern is power regulation and making sure the LEDs last a long time.

Sorry, I'm tired and I'm just spewing all kinds of blabber.
 

Rob

'Q'
Elite Member

BoneJj

Well-Known Member
are you kidding, now because of you i know that hot snot is hot glue. i'm now wise beyond my years.

no, but seriously, all the info is greatly appreciated. keep it comin'!
Cool, will do after I get some sleep and my thoughts are more organized. Exam tomorrow night and another one Wednesday afternoon.... SUCK!!!!!!
 


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