Is chain removal possible without splitting the chain?


J

jay

New Member
Heineken said:
It is really kinked and some surface rust. I have my rear wheel off and I will soak it in kerosene and clean it step by step, a little bit every day this week. If by the end of the week results will be satisfactory I will keep it until next season, if not I will buy a new OEM chain (cheaper than the after-market alternatives).

P.S. I've cleaned my chain and the lube it, rode 50 miles then cleaned it again...and the mess you see there is coming out of a "cleaned" chain, I really hope the kerosene diet will rehabilitate the chain, I'm poor don't have $200 bucks
for another chain and the breaker/riveter chain tool. Disclaimer: picture was taken with an iPhone, so naturally the quality sucks, I don't accept no complaints :)).

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So getting back to ur question.. did you had to remove the swingarm to remove the chain without splitting it.. like what Jaralaccs said?? or it came off by some other method
..!!??
 
H

Heineken

Senior Member
Elite Member
jay said:
So getting back to ur question.. did you had to remove the swingarm to remove the chain without splitting it.. like what Jaralaccs said?? or it came off by some other method
..!!??
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I guess the answer to that is: probably the way to do it is remove the swing arm... but because I'm lazy I didn't. I'm soaking and cleaning the chain step by step in kerosene, with the rear wheel removed.
 
F

FZ1inNH

Super Moderator
Heineken said:
I'm too poor to buy something cheap (or in our case unsafe). I will go with a riveted link chain, even if that means buying the $100 tool...
BTW I need to find that thread of yours where you have the tire changing tools and ask your feedback on those :)).
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You can get by with the chain cutter. If you search Youtube, there's a lot of ways to mushroom that rivet without the expensive tool. :D

The tire changer? I have it but I've not been able to use it yet. Soon though as I need a new set of donuts for my bike before June's inspection. :eek:
 
R

Roaddawg

New Member
I can't keep my chain adjusted properly anymore. I'll set it to specs at the tighter spot but rotate the wheel and the loose spots are way too loose. So loose, I can pull the links off the rear sprocket almost completely. It's just toast. Although, it does have 24K mile on it. My sprockets look good. I did take good care of the chain, but its just to stretched. Any recommendations of for a chain brand? OEM is a 520 with 120 links, right? Besides the chain clip type, what else should I steer away from? I don't want a fancy colored chain, just something like stock to get me from A to B. Thanks for any inputs.
 
D

Deanohh

New Member
Heineken said:
While shopping around I found this:
Motorcycle Parts, ATV Parts, PWC Parts | DGY.com | Yamaha, Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki, | Motorsports Parts, Accessories, Apparel

One of my local dealers are selling the FZ6R OEM chain for 100 bucks, maybe I should get that and forget about it. Both front and rear sprockets are in good shape, and with good maintenance I'm sure a new chain will last as long as the sprockets would.


What do you guys think?
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If it just needs cleaning, I see no point in buying a new chain. The kerosene and brush sound like the way to go. Put the kerosene in a spray bottle and it will reach as much of the chain as removing and soaking it.
 
H

Heineken

Senior Member
Elite Member
Roaddawg said:
I can't keep my chain adjusted properly anymore. I'll set it to specs at the tighter spot but rotate the wheel and the loose spots are way too loose. So loose, I can pull the links off the rear sprocket almost completely. It's just toast. Although, it does have 24K mile on it. My sprockets look good. I did take good care of the chain, but its just to stretched. Any recommendations of for a chain brand? OEM is a 520 with 120 links, right? Besides the chain clip type, what else should I steer away from? I don't want a fancy colored chain, just something like stock to get me from A to B. Thanks for any inputs.
Click to expand...
Sorry just noticed your reply, get an EK size is 520 and length is 118 links, it's recommended to change the sprockets too. I didn't , had only 12k on the odometer. Not changing the sprockets will shorten the life of the new chain because even if you cant see the wear on the sprockets, trust me after 24k or more now it's there.

Again sorry for the 6 months delay of the reply:)
 

H

Heineken

Senior Member
Elite Member
J & J Speed Shop said:
Sorry for the newb question, but what do you mean by kinked? Also how should the chain feel? Should it be stiff or easy to bend?
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All links should be easy to bend. Stiffness means that the o ring is dry or worn out because of poor maintenance or riding in rain/with road salt and not cleaning your chain right away like I did.
 
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