Part 1
I thought the group might find a How To on chain adjustment helpful since there are a few new riders in this forum. Doing your own basic maintenance is a good idea as it helps you learn about your bike, adds to the riding experience and helps you ensure your bike is adjusted for safe/optimal performance. While you don't need a rear stand, it saves time and effort in addition to safely holding the bike upright while you spin the rear tire. Keep your fingers well clear of the chain and the rear sprocket. While it does not seem that a wheel spinning this slowly can do damage, there is enough inertia and mass in that rear wheel to crush or sever fingers( I jest not folks).
Necessary tools would be a 22mm socket with a power bar to loosen the rear axel nut (a torque wrench to tighten it is best, but this is optional), a 12mm socket and a 12mm wrench (two 12mm wrenches will work too), and an accurate tape measure or steel ruler.
Step 1, Finding the tightest part of the chain. Place your bike on the rear stand if you have one. With a tape measure pick a spot on the bottom of the swing arm and measure to the top of the chain. Slowly spin the rear wheel and watch for the smallest distance between the top of the chain and the swing arm (it may only be 1/16 " or less). This is the tightest part of the chain and is the best place to check your chain slack. If you do not have a rear stand, it might be easier to measure if you have a helper to roll the bike forward until you get the tightest spot on the chain. Again, watch your fingers around the chain and sprocket.
Step 2, Check the chain slack. A little bit ahead of the midway point on the swing arm is the midpoint of the chain. This is where you want to take your measurement. You want to pull up on the bottom run of the chain as far as it goes with about 10 lbs of force. Place the end of your tape measure at the center point of the chain rivets (I prefer to rest my arm on the foot peg and start at the 1" mark to ensure a more accurate measurement).
While holding your tape measure as still as possible, pull down on the chain and note the point on the tape where the center of the rivets align. You might find the tape measure has moved during this process, so feel free you check this measurement several times. Tip: if you start your measurement at the 1" mark on the tape measure, don't forget to subtract that 1" from your total measurement otherwise you will end up with an extra inch of slack (for example, the pic below looks like I have 3" of slack when I only have 2").
The spec. for a FZ6R chain is 1.77 - 2.17 inches or 45 mm - 55mm of slack. Vernier Callipers, if you have them, are handy for measuring in decimals. If the center rivets of your chain move up and down 1 7/8 " to 2 1/8", you do not have to adjust your chain at this time. If your chain moves more or less than the previous spec., then you should adjust your chain.
Running a chain that is too loose causes the chain to flail around the sprockets that makes them at best noisy, and at worst in danger of slipping on or off the sprocket. Running a chain that is too tight places strain on the transmission, can cause performance loss from excess friction, and can wear your chain and sprockets much faster. Worst case scenario for an out of spec. chain is that the chain breaks/comes off the sprockets and jams the rear wheel throwing you on your backside, or jams the front sprocket causing your engine and transmission to grind to a sudden stop causing beaucoup damage to the engine internals. It is always preferable to run your chain on the loose end of the 2 1/8" slack which is still safe, but will minimize friction and wear. If your chain needs adjustment, see part 2 in the next post.
I thought the group might find a How To on chain adjustment helpful since there are a few new riders in this forum. Doing your own basic maintenance is a good idea as it helps you learn about your bike, adds to the riding experience and helps you ensure your bike is adjusted for safe/optimal performance. While you don't need a rear stand, it saves time and effort in addition to safely holding the bike upright while you spin the rear tire. Keep your fingers well clear of the chain and the rear sprocket. While it does not seem that a wheel spinning this slowly can do damage, there is enough inertia and mass in that rear wheel to crush or sever fingers( I jest not folks).
Necessary tools would be a 22mm socket with a power bar to loosen the rear axel nut (a torque wrench to tighten it is best, but this is optional), a 12mm socket and a 12mm wrench (two 12mm wrenches will work too), and an accurate tape measure or steel ruler.
Step 1, Finding the tightest part of the chain. Place your bike on the rear stand if you have one. With a tape measure pick a spot on the bottom of the swing arm and measure to the top of the chain. Slowly spin the rear wheel and watch for the smallest distance between the top of the chain and the swing arm (it may only be 1/16 " or less). This is the tightest part of the chain and is the best place to check your chain slack. If you do not have a rear stand, it might be easier to measure if you have a helper to roll the bike forward until you get the tightest spot on the chain. Again, watch your fingers around the chain and sprocket.
Step 2, Check the chain slack. A little bit ahead of the midway point on the swing arm is the midpoint of the chain. This is where you want to take your measurement. You want to pull up on the bottom run of the chain as far as it goes with about 10 lbs of force. Place the end of your tape measure at the center point of the chain rivets (I prefer to rest my arm on the foot peg and start at the 1" mark to ensure a more accurate measurement).
While holding your tape measure as still as possible, pull down on the chain and note the point on the tape where the center of the rivets align. You might find the tape measure has moved during this process, so feel free you check this measurement several times. Tip: if you start your measurement at the 1" mark on the tape measure, don't forget to subtract that 1" from your total measurement otherwise you will end up with an extra inch of slack (for example, the pic below looks like I have 3" of slack when I only have 2").
The spec. for a FZ6R chain is 1.77 - 2.17 inches or 45 mm - 55mm of slack. Vernier Callipers, if you have them, are handy for measuring in decimals. If the center rivets of your chain move up and down 1 7/8 " to 2 1/8", you do not have to adjust your chain at this time. If your chain moves more or less than the previous spec., then you should adjust your chain.
Running a chain that is too loose causes the chain to flail around the sprockets that makes them at best noisy, and at worst in danger of slipping on or off the sprocket. Running a chain that is too tight places strain on the transmission, can cause performance loss from excess friction, and can wear your chain and sprockets much faster. Worst case scenario for an out of spec. chain is that the chain breaks/comes off the sprockets and jams the rear wheel throwing you on your backside, or jams the front sprocket causing your engine and transmission to grind to a sudden stop causing beaucoup damage to the engine internals. It is always preferable to run your chain on the loose end of the 2 1/8" slack which is still safe, but will minimize friction and wear. If your chain needs adjustment, see part 2 in the next post.
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