LOL, thought the same thing.I do alot of conduit bending and those crimps are killing me.
Thats beside the point though. Nice use of your brain and some extra material laying around the house. :thumbup:
If your going to use tie wraps to secure the rack, make sure you get something thats a bit more heavy duty. Don't want your rig coming off if you hit a few good bumps.
There are some 200lb tie wraps HVAC guys use to wrap duct work that would do the trick.
We tie them onto the new guys' driveshafts to haze them a bit. Makes a hell of a noise when they pull their trucks out of the parking lot.
Another trick is to fill the pipe with small particle sand. It will help to prevent creases and also help it to keep it's nice round shape. This is normally for doing copper pipe for well other forms of preparation for alcohols but yeah it works pretty good for just about any pipe really. You can get some really nice looking bends with it. Just temporarily cap the ends with something that's going to hold strong.Good thinking, it isnt your fault you havent learned to bend pipe.
Its a art and takes time to learn.
If you don't have access to a 1/2'' bender, you can still make a nice bend with 1/2'' if you know what your doing..Its the easiest pipe to learn with.
It takes 5'' to make a 90degree bend without crimping the pipe, so you can find a object with a diameter of 9'' + and use it as a guide to bend the pipe around (I say 9'' instead of 10'' becuase after you wrap the 1/2'' pipe around a 9'' object it will have about a 10''diamater
Im a electrician and have bent this stuff 10+ years, feel free to pm me.
Here is a link showing how to make basic bends
(EMT Bender)Conduit Bending Instructions - Electrical References - Elliott Electric Supply
Not at all..Is all this crease talk really going to make a significant difference in this type of rack?
Not trying to be insulting, just learning.
I'll definitely be building one of these this summer
I was going to move it back a couple more inches, but I didn't like it hanging out that far. I had my 15 year old (who's 6'1"/175 lbs) just jump on the back with me on it and he had about 2-3 inches of room behind him. As for using as a backrest, don't know for sure. He leaned back on it some and said it felt pretty solid...no flexing at all. The case to the mounting plate is what is a little wobbly (manufacturers design, not mine). That's why I put a bunch of rubber pads on the plate to reduce the case wobble. But, I suppose a passenger leaning on it a little wouldn't hurt it.do you think a passenger could ride with it on? doubt it was your intent to use it as a passenger backrest, but it looks like maybe a couple inches extended back and it woul work well for that? great work, must say. if I'd thought of this before I got my givi rack, I would have went this route...plus this looks very easily removable unlike the givi.
Nice. You gotta love that big ol' case. It's huge but so very functional.Man our bikes look like brothers now :zombie:
Glad I could help. That large one might fit two helmets...or at least a lot of room for one plus gear. Look forward to the pics!Thanks for the inspiration Roaddawg
I found a top case on clearance for $45 today, the largere of the 2 models.It says a fullface will fit inside, and has a passenger backrest.I just thought id try it for $45.
Garage Pro Universal Motorcycle Travel Trunks - JCWhitney
I have 100' of 3/4 emt, and a bender.But im not doing it until spring, or at least a warm weekend.But i'll make sure to post pics when im done.
also structuraly your deign uses the two sides to cary the wheight. the cross peice doesnt do much other keep them from bending side to side which the plastice peace aslo does so those bad crimps arent really a problem for your apllication.
Dont get me wrong you cant have those crimps whith cable in their thats horrible but not a concern for his application IMO
The rack I made were done the way you said. I had 4 tab bend down between the hand rail and plastic, plenty of room there. 1/8" thick is enough bit 3/16" is better.I took a close look at the grab rail. The rail tabs have about half an inch of material below the tab and curves around the bike's rear plastic. Thus, the rack mount tabs can't get a straight shot to the bike's mount holes. I can take a pic to explain if this isn't clear.
Did you bend the rack tabs to go under the rail's material, or did you cut the material off the grab rail? Or some other slick solution?