Help, 2012 fz6r oil change what are the product #'s


A

a2maxd

New Member
so i just called a yamaha local dealership, they had no clue what oil or filter to use on the new 2012's claiming they did not have the charts :rant:

so i was wondering if anyone knew what the product numbers for a yamaha oil filter is, and what oil to use. My bike is under warranty thats the only reason why im going yamalube

thanks
 
C

CrazyCawi

New Member
a2maxd said:
so i just called a yamaha local dealership, they had no clue what oil or filter to use on the new 2012's claiming they did not have the charts :rant:

so i was wondering if anyone knew what the product numbers for a yamaha oil filter is, and what oil to use. My bike is under warranty thats the only reason why im going yamalube

thanks
Click to expand...
my first set of advice would be to never take it to that shop holy hell....
same filter as all the other model years.....go to motorcyclesuperstore.com and type in the type of bike you have and itll pull up the filter...get the K&N so your next oilchange you can do yourself....
 
J

JSP

Super Moderator
Same as the 2009, 2010, 2011... all the same. Nothing has changed.
 
J

JSP

Super Moderator
And all info should be in your handy dandy owners manual! ;)

And Yamalube has NOTHING to do with your warranty... Use any oil you want that meets the manufacturers required specs. By LAW they cannot deny warranty on you for not using a specific product, or you doing the work yourself.

And yeah, if that dealer was dumb enough to not be able to find that info, stay FAR FAR away from them!
 
J

JSP

Super Moderator
Oh, and WELCOME to the forum! ;) Post up some pics of your new baby!
 
A

a2maxd

New Member
thanks guys you were way more helpful than so called dealer, one other thing whats a good weight for oil this is my first bike so im still new to some things.
 
M

MNGreg

waiting out winter
Elite Member
As J said use 10w40 and make sure listed as what? JASCO??

If you want KN it is KN-204.

Welcome to the forum and congrats on the bike.
 
M

MNGreg

waiting out winter
Elite Member
OK. So I dont want to hijack a thread, but being that this one has been dead now for about 2 weeks and the title suits my needs almost exactly, minus the 2012 (substitute for 2009).. I didnt want to start yet another thread when not needed.

So, I am at about 3700 miles right now. I am getting my 4k service done on Tuesday at the dealer (I dont have confidence in my abilities to properly check or adjust everything), I am going to do my own oil change so it will only cost me about $52 for the 4k service. I will actually do the oil change this weekend since I can not next weekend since I have to work.

I have 4 qts total of AMSOIL Motorcycle 10w40. I have the wrench, torque bar wrench, and the oil pan that I use on the lawnmower/snowthrower (should be big enough).

The manual says (and prior threads on here *hammered home by JohnKerr talking about filters overall) should be totally fine to go for 8k between changes. However, I know that some oil stays in the engine during the changes regardless, but would it be better if I am changing to synthetic oil to replace the filter now at (lets say) 4k, then again at 8k (to get back on manual schedule for easy memory for future) so that I try to get as much of the Dino oil out as possible? Or just save my $ and do it at 8k only?

If I should get a new filter I am going between the KN204 (for the wrenchability), but also the purolator for reputation and cost..

Thank you!!!
 
D

dart1963

Super Moderator
Elite Member
I wouldn't worry about the small amount of oil left after draining the engine. I usually drain mine on the kickstand, then stand it up for a few and tip it back down, that usually nets a couple more oz. flowing out...

over time, you'll get all the dino out, but it's going to be too small an amount to worry about for the first switch over.
 
A

Alex6

New Member
MNGreg said:
...
The manual says (and prior threads on here *hammered home by JohnKerr talking about filters overall) should be totally fine to go for 8k between changes. However, I know that some oil stays in the engine during the changes regardless, but would it be better if I am changing to synthetic oil to replace the filter now at (lets say) 4k, then again at 8k (to get back on manual schedule for easy memory for future) so that I try to get as much of the Dino oil out as possible? Or just save my $ and do it at 8k only?

If I should get a new filter I am going between the KN204 (for the wrenchability), but also the purolator for reputation and cost..

Thank you!!!
Click to expand...
The oil filter cost is so insignificant, I see no reason why you can't change it any time you change oil.
A hand-tight should be good enough for the oil filter. No need to overdo it.
 
B

BKP

New Member
+1 on changing both the dino *and* the oil filter...

Amsoil or Mobil 1 (specifically for bikes!), and as MNGreg said, hand tight on the filter. It will seal up fine, even if it seems like it was torqued on by the factory.
 
D

dmkun

Member
So you don't necessary need the oil filter wrench to remove the filter, correct? I am planning on getting the K&N aftewards so i don't want to buy the oil filter wrench if i don't have to...
 
G

geekmaster

Member
dmkun said:
So you don't necessary need the oil filter wrench to remove the filter, correct? I am planning on getting the K&N aftewards so i don't want to buy the oil filter wrench if i don't have to...
Click to expand...
The only way I could get it off without some sort of filter wrench was to use the screwdriver method (drive a screwdriver through the filter), and I don't really recommend that. The space is too small to get your hands in there or much of anything else, and the filter was pretty tight.
 
M

Michael Wilson

New Member
cant believe the stealership didnt know what filter to give you... omg i am blown away wth? seeing how ALL manufactures are lazy and use the same parts for years and years and years.... I believe our filter is from like a early 2000 r6/fz6/r1/fz1.... they dont change that stuff offten lol
 

R

raybob

New Member
I use the Fram PH6017A that I pick up at Wally World (along with Rotella T6 synthetic oil).

As long as they meet the factory engineering requirements, I'm pretty much a happy camper (though I do splurge on the synthetic - $19.99 for 4 quarts).

Bob
 
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